I'm not worrying about the roof at this point. I am just getting the lower part (foundation) fabbed up. The Sedan Delivery is chopped now, and I like that look, so the A posts have to be cut at some point. As far as the wheel tubs, yes, I am looking at cutting all the rotted part away, and about halfway up the side of the tub. The Sedan Delivery actually has panels that bolt onto the inside of the wheel tubs. Here is a picture of one of them that I pulled off yesterday. The first picture is the side that would see if you looked up into the fenderwell. The second picture is what is actually behind the quarter panel. As you can see it is in pretty good shape. Same on both sides.
I tacked a new rocker in place just as a quick look-see. Ive had this rocker laying around for awhile and it needs a good cleaning before I fit it in permanent.
I'm not here to plug tools for anyone, but I just cleaned this piece up a bit. I spent 3 minutes with the Eastwood Contour SCT and this is what it looked like. I had to clamp it on to see how it looked of course. That tool is badass!
Because your going to be doing so much Mix-n-Match I feel that having at least one place Anchored might pay off in the long run. Having a complete front clip bolted in place will keep the cowel locked in on the Vertical at the A piller. Also using a 2 door sedan front door it of course may not fit under the drip rail correctly and without the door to front fender gap to go by you may end up finding out latter you would need to re do some lines. I myself would hang the complete front unit including the Hood. Then move to align the door to fender gap, then see how the door fits to the Drip Rails. You already know the drip rails are going to need some changes. Don't let it be a dictator early on and wish things were different latter. Once Fender to Door and Hood fit are all good then move to the rocker and floor repairs. At least that's how I read it from the photos. The Wizzard
Actually the door fits nicely in the jamb/drip rail up top. It is sagging a bit (wider gap) at the rear than it is up close to the A pillar. I'll adjust on it tomorrow evening and see if I can get it to set nicely in the opening. I will see about lining up some help to get the front clip pulled off the 2 door car and bolted steadfast on this weekend. As far as the rockers go, would you make up a box of the inner and outer rockers and fit that as an assembly, or....? Thanks as always for you insight Wizzard.
Correct me if I'm wrong. It's been a few years since I did any 50 Chev floor work. Did the stock floor pan fold 90* down and weld to the hat channel/body mounts with the Rockers capped over the floor pan and a vertical pinch weld as a lower edge? If so I think I'd still repair the floor and inner rocker as one piece welding to the Hat Channel mounts by Plug Welding them together on the exposed side of inner then set the outer shell of rocker in place plug welding through holes at the lower pinch weld. I probably should go look at a body shop manual to refresh my memory. Good to see ya back on the Delivery Body. The Wizzard
Something you may want to do before you cut the Driver side B post out. Measure the total inside width at 3 places of the door opening. Then measure the total over all width of the door at matching points. Make note of those numbers somewhere. This will help you get good position of the New B post when you splice the Delivery quarters back on the rockers. Trying to do that by just making nice looking Gap lines may not work out the best. The Wizzard
You make a valid point and one I had thought of at some point and had stored away for when that time comes. Whether or not I would have recalled it is another story! I have the unmolested 2 door car and the drivers door on the SD is still together, somewhat, so I'll get the measurement from all three cars and see how they compare. Great forethought!
Those inner wheel tub panels are the same on all 49-51 Chevs as far as I know, the 51 4dr that I had certainly had them...........andyd
The ones on the Sedan Delivery were bolted in place. The ones on the 4 door appear to be spot welded. I haven't checked the ones on the 2 door yet but thanks for your information.
Noticed your right front Tire is near flat. Something I learned a log time ago. Cars Flex. Chassis are made to Flex. Suspension moves around. No matter the size of the Tire on any of the 4 corners they are for the most part making full contact on the Ground or Floor even when that surface is no where near level. This telescopes into the Car's Body. If you do structural repairs on an unlevel Chassis you are creating Built in Damage. In other words a Twist in the Body that won't correct itself past the welds once the Chassis is moved to a Level surface. Were it me I would get the Chassis up off the Floor and on adjustable screw jacks (or shim ridged jack stands) and get my chassis level side to side in at least 4 stations front to back on each side of the chassis (8 stands in total). Then make reference marks on them all so I would know if things move while under re construction. You'll be glad in the end you did this. I'll be in the shop soon and look at how the Rockers are installed and follow up on my comments re them in a bit. The Wizzard
So my body shop manual isn't as descriptive as I would like. It just shows inner and outer rockers but nothing to do with Body mount supports and how they tie into the inner rocker. It does show 49 inner is different than 50 but the outer is the same for both years. I would still install both inners using the outer as a guide as to how far in or out it needs to be to hang the outer to align with the door bottom. The lower edge is most often a strait line front to back so the lower edge fits against the outer evenly for a spot weld. The top side of the outer panel can be moderately moved in and out as needed to match contour of lower edge of door skin. This would be the reason for me to install them separately. Not sure if you have any but Clecko's are a must for me when doing this kind of fit and repair. The Wizzard
Just as a side note. The body and frame on the 4 door is a 1952. That is what is being used as the foundation. Point taken on the "level frame" issue. I'll be sure and get it on stands before any permanent repairs are made.
When I did the 2dr conversion on my 51 I found it was best to align the new rockers to the factory rockers by taking a bunch of measurements from reference points on the floorpan and leaving a few small sections of the original rockers in place to act as alignment tabs during fitment. I did have the new doors on like you and kept an eye on how everything was matching up but found there were way too many variables trying use them to determine where the new rockers should end up
I don't understand your question. If your asking about the Sedan Delivery body it is waiting in the wings to be sliced and diced and a good portion of it grafted onto the 4 door floorplan.
Yes I've been studying that for damn near three years now. That's why I have enough 49-52 roofs to cover all of N. Texas. I'll make it work. You can come help if you want to. It will be fun!
Just to be perfectly clear, I had no part in slicing and dicing the Sedan Delivery. I just rescued it from sitting and rotting in a field.
That car would sure do some good on my project! It's not good for much else, that's for sure! Looks like there could be a possible lead on it. Ace Auto Salvage, Tonica Il. I will give them a call tomorrow. It'd be worth a road trip if if it still there, the price is right, and the owner would let go of it. Thanks for the heads up low budget!
That would move you light years ahead if it works out. Having an uncut back door would be priceless even if you needed to repair the bottom of it. The Wizzard
If its still there, and you could at least cut the top off and/or the stuff you need and haul it in the bed of a pickup, that would be cool too!
Nothing much to add right now except I started this project 3 years ago today. I am officially out of space to work in the shop without shuffling stuff around so I am adding on a 16 x16 extension to the shop. Materials are bought and paid for and just waiting for the ground to dry up a bit to get started. Got a tig welder and plasma cutter on the way as well. Hopefully I'll show some good progress soon.
The Sedan delivery lead was a dead end. The phone number I found had been disconnected. Yeah, I'll figure it out either way.
The Jalopy Journal
