Features Who's Building a T?

Now that's a nice T.

 

Thanks very much I appreciate that.trying to get it done but as all you prob know 2 step forward 3 steps back hahaha

 

What kind of stands are thwse?!

 

I fabricated those stands myself. I drew them out and cut them out of 3/16” steel plate.
12” high, they’re really handy.

 

They look stackable as well...

 

Yes they are

 

Cleaning out some of my junk today and came across this courtesy card from the Gov'nors car club which is long gone. The Gov'nors project car was a similar chopped T which was seared into my brain when I was a kid. The car in the picture is the Gordon Sully car from Portland.

 

Anyone know where I can get this rubber seal for my rear window? Not the same as original. This actually seals around the edge of the body.

 

There are a couple different styles. Some are like a " T" lip that folds in and locks on itself after you install the glass. The other uses a rubber cord that is threaded into a groove. We used both on military vehicles. Any auto glass place should know what you're talking about. Good luck .

 

This place has tons of different profiles of rubber seals. Maybe you can match something up...
https://www.steelerubber.com/

 

Here’s mine.For sale at Classic Auto Mall.Price reduction next week.


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Hauled her off to the media blaster today.

 

I thought it might be good to do an update on a problem I had not mentioned with the headlights on 26 COOP, so here goes:

I had not driven the car at night on dark roads before leaving for the Salt back in August. After picking up my buddy, Jim Siler, in Ohio, I set the goal for being in Wyoming on the third day out. That resulted in a really long day, in which I drove 834 miles from Knoxville, IL to Cheyenne, WY. I reported that in my daily posting, but did not mention the night-driving problem we experienced.

The headlights are 1934 Chevrolet Master units and use the 3-pin headlight bulb mounting with 13007-12 bulbs.

But I was not comfortable going with the old style bulbs and assumed I would get better vision by using H4 halogen bulbs in aftermarket reflectors.


So I abandoned the original and bought the aftermarket from Chevs of the 40s. BIG MISTAKE!

We reached the Wyoming border just about dark. Driving 26 COOP at night was like driving a car with macular degeneration. I could see the signs on either side of the road, but only the lines on the pavement straight ahead. SCAREY! To make things worse, we had to drive to Cheyenne to find a motel with a room available, about 50 miles, and the roads were under construction with no lines!!!!! I could only follow the taillights of vehicles ahead in order to stay on the road.

My analysis: the H4 halogen bulbs have a cover over the forward end of the bulb and (I believe) the reflectors are incorrect for the bulbs and the bulbs are not positioned at the focal point for the parabolic reflector to shine the light rays forward and parallel. This results in a large blind spot forward and center and all the light going to an outside ring of light. Furthermore, the '34 lens was designed to refract the light for a correct horizontal fan pattern, which the H4 and reflector are incapable of doing.

So recently, I sent some parts to Custom Chrome Plating (40 COOP bumperettes I was making out of stainless to replace those which were damaged by Bonneville salt), so I sent the original reflectors to be chrome plated instead of trusting the silver plating.

Long story short, I have installed the original reflectors with the 12V replacement bulbs. Without the lens in placed, the light pattern (low beam) is a small round circle at the center. With the lens in place, the pattern is a horizontal fan, just as the engineers in 1934 intended it to be. I am no longer afraid to drive 26 COOP at night.

 

@Irishjr, thanks for that update. It sounds like a reasonable assumption that the newer bulbs and reflectors would be better.

 

So I also thought. Tonight I aimed the lights and took this picture:


However, I am not impressed with the high beam (too diffused) but the improvement on the low beam is impressive and would have served me well even on the roads under construction on the way to Cheyenne.

 

For the lights in my OTB guide 682c repros on my RPU I decided to install Sylvania silverstar halogen sealed beams.

Easy to replace if one breaks and I think they should work well.

I drove many miles in cars and trucks over the years with halogen sealed beam headlights.

 

I have original 682c headlights on 33 COOP and that is a different situation. Sealed beam headlights are well engineered to place the light source at the focal point and refract the beam through the lens to provide a specific light pattern on the pavement....and they make millions of them that do so identically.



The H4 halogen bulbs for the non-sealed-beam headlights are designed to fit in the OEM headlight pods on modern cars which were specifically engineered to provide a specific light pattern on the pavement....and they make millions of them that do so identically.

Unfortunately, the hot rod repro aftermarket adapts the H4 halogen bulbs to fit headlight assemblies (reflectors and lenses) that were designed in the 1920s and 1930s under different circumstances (non-shrouded bulbs) and they make perhaps a couple hundred of them to fit various reflector/lens configurations AND THEY DON'T WORK!!!

I could have used 682c's on 26 COOP, but I really liked the look of the earlier headlights.



My main purpose of posting this discussion was to warn fellow rodders about the problem and provide a (what I hope is) a better solution.

 

Irishjr, great job on the headlight research and thank you for sharing the info. I run the Guide 682c and sealed beam bulbs on my 26T coupe and they seem fine. But I must say the older I get I could mount a search light on the roof and still want more. Again nice research and thanks for sharing.
Dan

 

She got a bath and she's back...

 

Mosytly doing final welding on the frame and parts lately. Got the pedal assembly hung a while ago.

 

I’m building a flathead powered lil thing.
Buttoning up the last stuff now so should be driving by spring.


Skickat från min iPhone med H.A.M.B.

 

Set the body on the frame to start planing the channel/floor.

 

Skip the channel Bud, looks great as is.

 

i agree!!

 

Working on a T here but working with what has been discarded, i.e. everything T era.

 

The Sherman Super Fire head was discarded?

 

Been thinking about it. Sure would make life easier! Radiator height is gonna dictate how I move forward.

 

I noticed the "A" in the front bar and thought it looks like the Ken Austin T. Also shown here:
- EM




Cleaning out some of my junk today and came across this courtesy card from the Gov'nors car club which is long gone. The Gov'nors project car was a similar chopped T which was seared into my brain when I was a kid. The car in the picture is the Gordon Sully car from Portland.

goldmountain, Jan 2, 2019 !Report!

 

No, and neither was the chassis. Although I doubt there are many here using a block that it would fit and considering the engine that it would fit would be one discarded I will lump it as something that would be "discarded" In truth it was one of the parts I worked to source along with the radiator and lights.

 

It's the same car. I knew that it was the Ken Austin car from a story written about it in Rod Action about how it ended up in Alaska but thought that I should attribute it to Sully since he was the owner when it appeared in Hot Rod and also Car Craft

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