Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

Not a problem. I bought two of these nearly ten years ago from your agent in the UK, the late ( and much missed) Steve Lang. Happy to get any support at all this long after purchase.

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Steve is definitely missed. I only emailed back and forth with him, but he seemed like a real nice guy. A wealth of knowledge, and always willing to help someone out. Amount of time after the purchase isn't an issue with us. If you need anything, just let me know. Same goes for you other guys on here. That's supposed to be the whole reason for these forums, and should be the way we all conduct ourselves and our businesses

 

Thank you for the advise, I will be in touch.

 

Okay, after talking to Jeremy on the phone and following his instructions I've identified the turn signal wires in the original 1951steering column harness. Here is the pic I posted before but with the wires identified, maybe this will help someone else down the road (pun intended).

Turn Signal Wiring At Column With Wires Identified by brokedownbiker posted Dec 21, 2018 at 5:12 PM

I can't tell you how impressed I am with Rebel Wire and Jeremy in particular. This kind of customer service just isn't seen much these days; add that to the top quality product they're making and it seals the deal for me- they will be supplying the harnesses for my future projects- thanks Rebel Wire!!

 

Well said I could not agree more, I almost feel like buying a spare harness their service is so good, really!

 

I'm just getting started with my 9+3 kit. I believe that the 10 gauge from the panel to the battery gets the fusible link? What size wire do I need from the 140 amp alternator to the battery and does it need to be fused as well?
Thanks

 

Brasspike, you're correct- if you look at your instruction sheet, on page two in the "engine section" paragraph it says exactly that. I opted to use a 50-amp maxi-fuse instead of the fusible link; no real reason beyond personal preference.
On your alternator I would recommend either 8 or 10 gauge wire, the kit supplies 10 gauge if I remember correctly. And not, it isn't normally fused.

 

Thanks for the reply. I questioned the #10 from the alternator because I was seeing the larger amp alternator kits using #6 and #8 wire from the alternator to the battery while my rebel kit has #10. My load should not be very high normally but if I have a low battery situation, I thought maybe that alternator might go full tilt and burn up the #10 wire.
I have some more questions too... but one step at a time.

 

Sorry, just getting caught up on these. Yeah, I would agree to go larger on the charge wire for the 140amp alternator. The 10ga wire supplied is mainly for up to a 100amp alternator. I would go with at least an 8ga, and it doesn't have to be fused. The fusible link is to protect the bus bars in the fuse panel, mainly in case of a major short to ground, like arcing out the battery

 

Thanks for the help! I'll change that out.

 

I’m having an issue with the 9+3. I need to see a fuse block layout. I have two fuses ,with the ignition on pulls battery voltage down. I need to know what the fuses are for. 4amp and 20 anp


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Here is a list I have from a while back, don't know if any thing has changed since then.

 

whats the current cost on these? are they discounted for alliance? maybe a link to their store? i just read enough that im interested!

 

RichB has the right fuse layout. The radio and wiper fuses are what you've got pulled out. Did you mean they're drawing with the ignition off? They would be hot with the ignition on, but only if they have a path to ground. Let me know what you find out and if you need any help with it

 

We do offer a 10% discount for alliance members. The 9+3 is now 215.00, then you'd get 10% off that. Our website is www.rebelwire.com and the shop email is rebel43jb@comcast.net if you have any questions about the kits

 

What is the relay for between the flashers.


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It's the horn relay. Already powered in the fuse panel. All you've got left to connect is the black "horn switch" wire to your horn button, and the green "horn" wire to the horn, and ground the horn.

 

And worth every penny! I'm waiting for the weather to warm up enough to finish painting my dash and door trim pieces and I will be done with my re-wiring project (9+3 harness). Very impressed with the quality of the harness and the customer support.

 

Are the 9+3 kits done any differently now than they used to be ? And have the instructions been upgraded at all in recent years ?
I ask because I don't recall the wires being bundled so neatly and segregated as shown in the picture.
As far as directions go with most wiring kits I always seem to have difficulty figuring out the basics like what wire goes to what switch, things like that.
Or where do the wires go from the fuse panel.
I know it's laid out in the diagrams, but for some reason I get tied up.
Maybe I just overthink it and it's simpler than I want to think

 

I just looked at the one you sold me and it looks like it is bundled the same as the picture some of those individual bundles are wrapped up together but look to be individually bundled inside the group bundles. I think I just confused myself.

 

The only thing we changed as far as the kit is now it has the 3 short pigtails coming out of the extra circuits on the fuse panel, instead of having to terminate a wire and plug it into the back of the panel, more user friendly. The bundling is the same, I just got better at making and editing pictures, lol. I did add a lot to the diagrams and instructions about a year ago. I always go back and forth on what to put in, we've got a ton of diagrams, shelves full, that I reference doing tech support, but there's just no way to cover all of it in the instructions. It's definitly easy to overthink it. I break it down into systems when I'm wiring something: lights, signals, charging system, gauges, ignition system... A lot of the different systems have nothing to do with each other, and are only related by grounds mostly. Also, only the power wires need to go to the fuse panel. So on something like a headlight switch, only the headlight switch power wire comes from the fuse panel, the rest (park, dash, tail, and dimmer switch) all just run power out from the switch to different places. Once you get it down, the older setups are simple really. If you ever get hung up on something or If I can help out, just let me know. I do tech all the time, even on stock wiring and other aftermarket setups. I'm still learning all the time though

 

You're right, if you cut the heavy colored wire ties, it will be just like in the picture. I confuse myself all the time

 

My '50 Ford is still going strong after 7 years with a Rebel kit. So easy, even I can do it!

 

Do you offer something like this ? or is it possible to have one of your kits take a 3 prong flasher for the 7 wire aftermarket type turn signal with the lighted stalk like the Limeworks one ?
That way you wouldn't have to jumper the flasher plug in and run a remote flasher mount.

 

If we know ahead of time, we can just swap the flasher to a 3 pin instead of the (2) 2 pin 552 flashers. If you already had one, you could also rewire the block for a 3 pin, with the right terminals. But it's not a problem for us to change it when building one. I think I have a picture of one we changed out. I'll look and post it



this is a 9+3 kit with a 3 pin flasher and added dome lights on the constant hot circuit, 2 extra accessory pigtails left for later. This is in a 54 Chevy COE. If we know before building it, we don't care at all to do small stuff like that. We know it makes a big difference when installing the kit

 

So it looks like that one has also eliminated the hazard flasher ?

Or does the one flasher do both?
I probably won’t install hazard flashers unless it’s really easy

On the instructions for my signal switch it uses a yellow wire that connects to the P post on the 3 prong electronic flasher.
That powers the indicator light on the end of the stalk.

Power for it also has to come off the L post of the flasher a red wire #6 on the diagram.

It can get confusing figuring all this stuff out.

 

No problem, I can clear it up for you. All of these add on turn signal switches are made to work off of one 3 pin flasher, even the switches with a hazard knob on them. So that means that if you have one with hazards on it, everything will either be a keyed hot, or a constant hot (turn signals and hazards both). So on a 3 pin flasher you have X (power into the flasher) L (load, power out to signals) and P (Pilot, to work the indicator light in the switch). L is basically the power into your turn signal switch when you use the switch and give it a path to the bulbs (or when it pulls a Load on the flasher).

You can actually use a 2 pin flasher, it just acts a little different. So a 2 pin flasher only has X, power and L, load...no P pilot. The Load wire into the turn signal switch works the same as usual, the X power wire into the flasher is the same, and if you're running dash turn indicators for turn signals you just don't use the P wire on the switch.

If you are wanting to use the indicators in the switch, and only have the 2 pin flasher you can combine your L and P wires on the switch and put them both to the L terminal or wire on the flasher. What this will do is the indicators on the switch will glow when the flasher is powered up or key is on, and will blink like normal when turning the switch left or right. That's because the bulb inside the switch is grounded all the time and so it pulls enough load to glow and when you add the load of the other bulbs (when turning) it will blink. Sorry, I got on a roll there, had to stop myself....to much information, lol. But that top part is how those flashers work.

I can try to take some pictures of flasher wiring and rewiring it to a 3 pin if that would help.

 

Thanks, that’s good information for sure.
Having a clear explanation of things helps.

 

Don't know if any of this helps, but here's some tech stuff I've done before on turn signal switches. The instagram link at the bottom is a diagram and another description. I'll try to find my original and post it.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BroewVrHQIo/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

 

Here's a display we built years ago to take the the NSRA show in Louisville. We installed a 16 circuit kit with high and low beams, turn signals, park and tail lights, brake lights, backup lights, ignition switch-with lights to show when the rows of fuses became hot, and to show when the solenoid would be energized, a heater blower motor, a horn button-with a light out front that would light up to show the horn being energized, and gauges-lit up and wired to senders. A mostly wooden display (which just meant it needed more grounds) but wired as you would a car, running off a power inverter. We're thinking about trying to use it to do some tech demonstrations