Hope the title helps me here- This is going on my Ford roadster. I have the hoop, BUT, I have a slight interference issue, = Just kissing the shock, and the shock itself has no cover to "ding" in, and need one a tad shorter......Like 1/4'' will do it, and i'll be gold. I've researched the likes of P&J's, So Cal, and even Speedway..... They did offer a shorter one, but the web say's discontinued- I have not called them on it. If anyone has a line on a shorter hoop/offerings, that would save me A BUNCH of trouble.... Yes- easy to make, but I don't have the means at this point, nor have a machine shop widdle on mine for $$$$. I'de just like to find something a lil shorter. Also- I'de rather stick with the hoop style VS one of the square looking jobbies....I have zero issues with buying one outright. If anyone has any info= Please share, or shoot me a PM. Thanks-Kid
I'll make the assumption that this hoop bolts on the knuckle using the top two backing plate bolts and after you shorten it the ends need to be square to the threads. You'll need a hacksaw or wiz wheel, a belt or disc sander, masking tape, a permanent marker and a home made jig. For the jig you will have to make some kind of a device that will hold the hoop securely, either horizontally or vertically, square to the sander. Maybe a couple of blocks of 2x4 or 2x6. Screw them together with some type of thin shim between them. Drill holes through the shimmed joint to hold the hoop. When you take the shim out the holes will then clamp the hoop tightly. Next make guide plate to clamp to the deck of your sander. This guide plate will have to allow your jig to slide in and out so the legs of your hoop will be dead square to the belt or disc. As I am writing this I just realized you could use the jig as a cutting guide to make square cuts or even grind off the necessary amount. When cutting round stock I use a wrap of masking tape to keep my cut square. After cutting off what you want put the hoop in the jig and lightly clean up the cut until there are only grind marks showing. Use finer grits until you have an acceptable surface. For a final check of squareness use the marker to color the new surface. Then run a nut up an appropriate sized bolt. Screw the bolt in until it bottoms out and run the nut down until it makes firm contact with surface. Hopefully the marker color is wiped away evenly. If not , what is left of the marker will tell you what adjustments to the jig and guide plate are necessary.
Just a thought but if you had them on hand you could run 32-34 spindles with integral steering arm but it would have a ball on it not a tapered bung obviously
This is a Speedway hoop. Probably could have made one from scratch considering the mods we made to make it work!
Close...... So here's what went down.... Brought it to a buddy who's a machinist before I got all crazy... He had a collet that fit in his mill, that actually fit over the threads....... Welded on a carbide bit, and turned down the shoulder of the arm 3/8 -7 16'', to my specs. Just enough to pass thru the spindle, but not interfering with the threaded portion= I ran a washer anyways...... Now- I retain original geometry, everything clears with chassis loaded/unloaded=steering, no interference, with ample room. Couldn't heat/bend, alter in any other fashion except shorter..... Problem solved! Thanks to all with the suggestions!
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