My last post asked about opinions on how to (re)build my dads 32. Finally got her back down to Florida and am getting to work. Looks like we are going to be removing the mustang II dad installed in the 80's and install the 4" dropped chrome I-beam I picked up this past weekend at the Turkey run in Daytona. Also got a new vega box, and all the various bits to go with the swap. Here's a few pictures of the disassembly. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
For now, it'll stay. Its a suburban roof, fits well but all of the original wood work is still up there. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The JW Rod garage frame builders kit showed up this afternoon. Couldn't resist doing a quit mockup. Excited to get started on the new frame! Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Why not? Its a brand new motor, its looks great, makes good power, I can fix anything that goes wrong with it at any auto parts store and its already built! [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Didn't buy the JW ROD GARAGE kit, but just the rails... they look good, 11 Ga. ... spreader bar and body bolt tiedown holes only... ford guy, the way God and Henry intended it... go fly go !
I think not, I would have to say it's 3:1 Chevy vs Ford in Hot Rods. Just the way it is and not trying to stir anything up.
I am interested in the old frame if you are going to part with it. PM me about it and what you would want for it. Thanks Dennis
Thought the plan was to trim off the unwanted items on your frame, and traditionalize it. What made you go with the JW parts?
No, its just not the direction we want to go now. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I think its easier to start with brand new rails than to cut off everything that was already done. The original frame is complete, partially boxed and would work fine for someone that would like to slap in a sbc, bolt on a body and go cruising. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Dad and I made some progress on the JW frame builders kit today. We had ordered about a hundred dollars worth of 5/16 18 & 1/4 20 weld in cage nuts from McMaster Carr for all of the body mount, fender, running boards and hood hold down bolts that will be inaccessible when the frame is boxed. Spent a full day getting them all in! I wiped everything with laquer thinner and ospho before I painted the inside of the frame rails to help control any rust. Then he helped me line up the boxing plates. All thats left now is to do the perimeter weld for the boxing plates before we jig it up for the cross members. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hey bud, I'd jig that frame up before welding anything on it. Most repro rails require a bunch of tweaking to be up to Ford specs. I'd hate to see you installing everything and then drop a body on top that won't fit.
Yeah, that's what I said in my post, I need to jig it to start installing my cross members. All I have is spec sheets, anyone know someone with a 32 frame jig in Florida? I called Clark Hot Rods in Daytona, but the only phone number I could find listed went to a real estate company and they didn't return my call. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I assume the new frame doesn't have a number. Work that problem with your local DMV before you do anything else. Charlie Stephens
Dad's owned this car since 1974, he's had the car titled in his name since then. Sent from my SM-G960U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'm following your build along, mine has been on hold for a couple of years while collecting parts and health reasons. Looks like you've got a good start for a slick tudor.
He may have the title, but the new frame won't have the number on it. Many (most) states want to see a number stamped by Henry Ford on either the frame rail or the transmission to verify it's the correct car to match the paper. Dad may never sell the car and need it inspected, but if the car is in an accident the insurance company won't pay if the correct number can't be verified.