Technical 1954 Ford Crestline V8 starter change out

Hello, friends. I have replaced my old original starter on my '54 Ford Crestline with a Powermaster starter. Much smaller and easier to bolt up. I am not a mechanic so I need some advice: Do I still use the original solenoid that's located up in the engine deck and run that to the attached starter solenoid? The new Powermaster starter has a solenoid mounted to it with a red jumper wire. Thanks for any help in getting her started up again.

 

Here

Here is a pic of the new starter...

 

There's no need for 2 solenoids.

 

Thank you. How do I get power to the starter if you know? Direct from the battery?

 

The jumper wire on the New starter is to make that solenoid hot when you have Starter power from the Batt. Leave it alone. Hook the main Batt cable that was on your stock starter to the new starter big terminal. Do not change any of your stock wires. In other words just hook the One large cable to the new starter and turn the key, it will be fine.
The Wizzard

 

Thanks, Wizzard. When I turned it over last night it just made a "click" sound. No engine turnover at all.

 

That info alone could and probably will lead to all kinds of remarks. Here's what I know. Fun costs money and a good education takes time and lot's of it. Old Cars take Both and I can't determine what's wrong in most cases over a key board. You could just have a dead batt or a bad cable that brought on your first issue. The good part is you Will figure it out.
The Wizzard

 

Thanks much!

 

Say Hello to Lizza for me.

 

LOL, that's Wanda Jackson. Rockabilly legend.

 

Okay, say Hello to her too. I honestly wish I could just tell you what to do next for an easy fix on your Starter issue.
The Wizzard

 

did it not come with wiring instructions?as to the 2 solenoids that was a common thing when racing you put a jumper on gm starter solenoid then used ford solenoid to start.never had a problem plus easy to reach ford.racers will understand

 

is your car still 6 volt pos ground? and is the new starter 6 volt or 12 volt?

 

Hi. The car has been switched out to 12 volt system. The original starter that I took out was the old 6 volt with the long starter drive. I wonder if over time the 12 volts going to the 6 volt starter messed it up any? The tip of the starter drive had a busted ring so not sure that the voltage caused that but it is trashed. I have the JEGS Powermaster mini starter now. Just trying to figure out the solenoid stuff.

 

Are you aware that a Batt. can have 12 volts in it but little or no Amps? I ask this, are you sure you have a good cranking amp Batt? If you want to just test to see if the new starter can do it's job you can test it in place by using a known good batt and jumper cables. Hook up the main cable to the starter like I said in post 5. Leave everything else as is in stock connected form. Hook up the jumper cable Ground cable to good clean spot on the actual Motor in the car (not starter motor) Now connect Jumper cable ends to a Good single Batt not the one in the car. Next take the Hot positive clamp of the Jumper Cables and Firmly push it against the terminal of the main Cable connected to the new starter motor on the existing stock solenoid. That new starter should take off like a Jet.
The Wizzard

 

Your original had the battery cable connected to the solenoid/relay, not to the starter.

I think you just need a + cable from the battery to the new starter's attached solenoid battery terminal. that will get your battery power to where you need it. Then the small wire on the old solenoid that comes from the ignition switch's start terminal needs to be extended to the new solenoid's smaller start terminal.

 

This would be a good plan if he didn't have it all there already. It's just hooked up via a different route but still does the same job without changing all the connections around extending the small wire on the Old unit, witch by the way would need to be disconnected and a***** connector used. What's the advantage? Not doing all this is the reason the new starter came with the jumper in place.
The Wizzard

 

Thanks for the input fellas. I'm just trying to go the easiest way to getting it started up (correctly.) It appears that there is more than 1 way to hook it all up.

 

I like fewer parts and bolted connections. Why rely on two solenoids/relays when one is all that's needed?

 

I run 2 solenoids on my car, a throwback to the stock car days. I jump out the S terminal to the main starter lug on the starter. The Ford type solenoid on the firewall does all the work. I don't see why you need a Power Master starter, why not have the OG one rebuilt to handle 12 volts?

 

Yes there is.

Because number 2 solenoid was not a choice and it's easier for a Guy that is already having difficulty reconnecting just one Cable.

Had I opened this post prior to Rockin' Rob investing in a High Torque starter I would have advised him to just buy a 57 up Y-Block starter that is already 12-V and get on with life.
The Wizzard

 

why not eliminate the battery by having it load tested.a good battery should read 12.4-12.5 at rest not just 12.this is a simple and no cost way to eliminate the number 1 thing in the system.you can boost with any number of batteries if they are bad you can boost till your blue in the face.remember the expression KISS

 

Thanks for the help on this issue, fellas. It turned out that battery was low. I charged it and the new mini powermaster starter fired up like a jet.

 

It's always good when things work out no matter how you get there.