Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Wow. Thanks. I guess now I’m on a hunt for a 32 ashtray! ‍♂️


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now haunt ebay in the 1932 Chevrolet "ebay motors" advanced section , daily newest listings until one turns up.

Gonna go have a search just for yuks.

mike

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-1932-...h=item3fb35f4f8d:g:WggAAOSwOwpbvT5k:rk:2:pf:0

and like magic here is one, well looks like it anyway NOPE THATS NOT IT, search continues by you
mike lynch

 

easier searching for hens teeth.....they show up now and then, but expect to dump some good $ for one

 

BOBK would be looking for peckers.
grab a dozen sock , order in a keg of suds. pizza and wings for all, and announce a party ?
mike

 

Man.....I miss him.......

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There out there.......

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Nice job on the chop

 

Dang PBR. Is that your coupe in the pic ? What kinda tail light set up you got?


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Yah, my 32. Taillights are 42-48 buick

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Dude. That thing is bad ass.


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Hadn't had a good view of your coupe till now Jeff, also agree that thing is BAD ASS!!!

 

those tail lights really suit the early panels more so than the 39 ford teardrop or the round Pontiac light commonly used or rectangular Chevrolet lights.

mike lynch

 

Thanks guys, been a long 8 years working on her, drove it up and down the driveway last month, probably the first time it's moved under it's own power since dad drove it in 66-68

 

That’s awesome. Congrats on that. I’ve got my dads 32 that he had since the 60s too.


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One thing on the body of the 32 chevy. The panel below the trunk lid is supposed to be free floating and not welded or any product inserted into the slots. In the wood system below it the 90 degree turn on the metal goes into a 3/16 wide slot in the wood, to allow the wood to expand and contract.

If you weld it solid & most likely if you paint the car , the movement in the frame will cause the area to twist ever so slightly and crack the paint. Keep it in primer and not a problem.

On my 35 roadster I did a lot of head scratching trying to figure out why the wood joints above the rumble lid and below it were constructed that way. Eventually I came up with the why answer. Visiting a friend with a 31 olds 5w coupe , his was constructed same way as your 32 chev.

mike lynch..........I wear socks to keep feet warm.....lmao

 

Are those the original fenders?


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Would you explain the definition of "free floating" on the rear panel below the trunk lid Mike? Or how the panel is supposed to be attached? This could be the very reason why after so many years went by on my coupe, that this panel has to be replaced AGAIN. We're talkin' 1996 for me...

 

Repop's from bowtie reproductions

 

This spring I'll get the car into dp60, to do a shake down for a year or so to see if anything moves as it does still retain some original wood. The wood sub rails are gone and replaced with 1 1/2 x 3 steel and connected by a 1 x 3. Plus everything it tied in with the white round tubes (8 points). Lots of planning went into the frame build and body mounting knowing what the motor puts out and how I'll be driving it. Time will tell....

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I like that simple trunk lid support you are using on your car and planning on switch my 34 Chevy Roadster Rumble over to a full trunk! Do you know what trunk lid support you had used? I had found this Speedway United Pacific B20037 1932 Ford Trunk Lid Support Arm $49 each all SST and a pair of universal hinges! Plus also looking for a pair of hinges for this swap! Any thoughts on what model for a pair of hinges?

 

he is using the same trunk lid brace / opener holder as our 34-35 standards would be if coupes. That picture is of a 34- 35 standard trunk

told you I have one or more, its too f---ing cold out there to search either of the sheds for it.

Like I told you before, YOU need to flip your rumble seat lid and see if it flips end to end, before you consider your next move.

mike

 

I could not find the " lower panel " wood parts, might be out in one of my sheds and freezing cold, so just took what I have inside from basement and took pictures of the parts.
These parts are for the top of the quarter panels where they join the panel ahead of the trunk/rumble seat lid.

The bottom area is similar in that it allows the panel to "float" as the wood expands and contracts with the weather.

 

picture # 1 show the roadster panel behind the seating area and ahead of the rumble/trunk lid. Note the ends turned 90 degrees and the original nail holes in the metal . Also notice the area where metal was removed right down to level, not supposed to be like that, is supposed to have about 3/16--1/4" metal in that area. This is the area that FLOATS in the wood slot

picture #2 clearly shows the SLOT in the wood. I enlarged it slightly.

picture #3 shows a side view of the wood part, slot on top and a recess underneath

picture #4 shows a very close up of the wood floater slot and 2 counter sunk screw
holes from the TOP....to get to these the quarter panel would have to be removed !

picture #5 this is the metal panel above rumble /trunk lid, shows the water drain trough is stamped into the panel and also shows all the nail holes that would be used to attach the metal panel to the wood crosspiece.

picture #6 this wood part runs all along the sides of the trunk/rumble lid quarter panel and nails are driven into this part thru the sides. The very top square knob looking end goes thru the roadster top holding area.

picture #7 shows the bottom area where the panel on your coupe would be, cannot find the actual wood part, its damn cold outside. You get the idea from the top, keep reading.

picture #8 shows the metal panel above trunk / rumble lid, along with wood piece and the wood part for the sides of the opening. All laid over each other.

picture #9 shows a 1925---1928 ??? chev coupe wood framing

picture #10 shows the narrowness of the gap in the rear upper panel and the quarter panel. Doesn't need much and I really did not need to open the slot.

Hope this answers your questions as the bottom panel fitting idea , would be the same as the top.

Just remember that if those joints are welded shut "even if the wood has been removed" its a strong potential area for cracking due to chassis flex. Example, when dry walling never have the seam join on the stud following the door, have it extend into the middle of the door / window opening. It always cracks if done wrong.

I can imagine somebody is going to say use AUTOMOTIVE SEAM SEALER . its not the cure all for all problems. And in 2012 I knew absolutely nothing about any of this. I am just one of those that wants to know the WHY of whats going wrong.

mike lynch

 

Thanks for the heads up Mike!

 

appreciate the input, time will tell, but i'll have to keep an eye on that area when she's on the road

 

Do you have any current photos of what you may have did with this project.

 

May have done, not "have did."
You 67 cougar , have posted these same pictures in this section before. In the last 2-3 years. So what have YOU done with your purchase after all this time .

mike lynch

 

Mike,
Thanks for that correction As to the pictures, I didn't post them at all at any time. I just joined here not to long ago because I am thinking about a 27 chevy truck.
Just been trying to gather info about what it takes to do one of these oldies.
David

 

Well , cougar YOU may have just joined here , but somebody before in last 2-3 years posted those same exact photos in this section on Chevrolets. If I get bored enough , I will go back and scroll thru hundreds of posts to find them.

First thing you want to do is GOOGLE ------1927 CHEVROLET TRUCK and see what comes up.

mike lynch