Ok guys, so I got myself a new project for Xmas. A 1959 F100 panel truck and I really dig it. It has sat for about 4 years and the engine turned freely, so I thought I'd try to fire her up and see what it sounds like. New plugs, points, condenser ,cap, rotor, wires and coil. Ran a line from the fuel pump into a gas can, to avoid getting the old gas out the tank. She spins over great, but has no spark at the plugs. Where should I start my search for the missing fire? Could it be that I got a bad coil? Real curious to hear if how it runs. That could convince me to keep the 223 in it for a bit, even though I have a 302 and C4 I could use.
Remove the coil wire from the distributor cap and hold it about 3/16" from a cylinder head bolt, a good ground somewhere, and check for a good spark from coil. It could be something in the distributor cap, or wires, rotor, even the plugs. If still no spark then it is something in the primary ignition circuit, maybe wiring. Where did you get the points & condenser? Most of them available as new manufacture are **** and to be avoided. Put the old condenser back in or maybe one out of your junkbox. If the condenser is open it will not spark very well at the plugs.
Start with something very basic...take the cap off...have somebody crank the engine and make sure the rotor is spinning...can’t tell you how many times I have run into that...[emoji41] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
And while you are there, check for spark at the points. If you set the gap properly, you will see them open and close every time the distributor cam bumps the point wear block and there should be a spark between the points. I am suspect of your condenser only because modern condensers are not of the same quality they were back when everything had points. Good luck, -Abone.
Grab a test light and check for power at the coil + battery power When cranking check the - for flashing power Look at your points if the gap is right and they actually open and close As has been said, condensers are **** now , most of the time. How good is your battery? Voltage could be dropping during cranking
With a test light hook to point wire at coil,should blink as motor turns over with ign. on. If no blink/judy on all the time=wire running to points is most likely shorting out as it goes through side of diz case{ This happens from frade wire or the fiber berals inside washer had frade badly. Just things too look for. A give away ,is coil is hot after only a few min. of playing.
I wouldn't trust the wiring. Fordpatina has the right idea. Run a wire from the battery to the coil. Then start troubleshooting.
Thanks for all the tips guys. Gonna try them all, can't wait hear how she sounds! If all else fails, I have 302 and C4 on stand by.
I was an electrician for a school district, was doing some diagnosis on a convection oven and did a little " Mcgyver Welding "....kitchen women called me sparky after that!!...seriously though I once had a rotor that didn't have continuity between the stainless steel tab and the br*** tip...spark into the cap but no spark back out.
Did you set the point gap with the rubbing block on the point arm on the tip of one of the cam lobes in the distributor cam? I have had who knows how many rigs drug into me that didn't start that the point gap was wrong because they set the gap on the flat rather then the high point of the distributor cam. I don't know about that one but a good number of 12 volt rigs don't have power to the coil when you crank the engine unless a resistor byp*** wire is in place.
The ignition system for that engine is about the most simple system there is. Spend a little time reading up how the system works and then do a little troubleshooting and fix the darn thing, it shouldn't be that hard. If you want a 302 & C4 than go for it, but to go to all of that because you aren't getting spark is silly. That straight 6 is a good engine. The first step in diagnosing a problem is understanding how it is supposed to work to begin with, then checking each item in the system to verify it is functioning as needed. You can start at the end of the circuit and work backwards, or start at the front and work forwards, till you find where the breakdown in the circuit is. Remember the basics. Don't skip steps. Here's some good reading material on the subject.
That's great advise my friend. My plans, prior to purchasing the panel, was to use the 302 and c4 anyway , but was curious about the condition of the 6 cylinder since it was complete and intact and didn't mind spending a few bucks on tune up parts for it. I know the condition of the V8 I have and would prefer an automatic trans, but see your point entirely!
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