Supply and demand. Not much demand for kerosene anymore, so supply is much less. Kerosene is more highly refined than diesel,so more diesel is made, less cost in production, more profit due to more volume sold.
Pretty much the same around here as far as price. Kerosene if you can even find it is over $5.00 a Gal. here with gas being $2.05, diesel is almost $3.00 a Gal. Back in the early '70's and before gas was at a high $.32 a Gal. then the OPEC oil embargo hit and that went to crap.
I don't have any vintage tractors (yet), but my big brother does. He has a number of Farmalls, M's H's a Cub, a 300. Some are still working farm tractors. Here here he is hauling a load of corn. Make'n it look easy, shifting the un-synchronized tranny on the go.
I like my M Farmalls the best of all my tractors. Two of mine have three point lifts. I have a fast hitch converson that I plan to install on one someday? All of them have the increased bore thin sleeves and now displace 264 Cu In. Im still using the belly pump. Would like to find a couple of those (sandwich)pumps that fit between the accessory drive and dist so I would have live Hyd. Also would like to find a M&W hand clutch for the M that I bale hay with.
Old Wolf, most folks don’t know about those hand clutches nor why you want one!!! I’ve got one for my G- Moline. Bones
My 300 Utility has that type of pump, they're hard to find. Seen a few they wanted around $1000 for! That's nearly as much as I paid for my 3oo Utility 5 years ago! Mine pushes hydraulic past the shaft seal and ends up in the engine crankcase. I put a seal in it a couple of years ago, but it didn't help. I changed the hydraulic oil to to the same 10w40 I run in the engine, so I just run it until the hydraulic tank goes low, then I drain the engine and put the oil back in the hydraulic tank. You can run it all day as long as you don't use the hydraulics like when bush hogging where you set it and leave it, trying to use a box blade where you are constantly adjusting it will run it out of hydraulic oil in 30 minutes. Steiner now has a O ring and gasket kit I'm going to try and see if that helps, if it doesn't, I may just find a crank driven pump and hang it on the front end somewhere.
I have a 300 utility and a 350 row crop. They have the same pump and the one on my 350 was putting hyd oil in the crankcase also. I switched to 30 wt non detergent and it stopped leaking. However the pump on the 300 and 350 is a factory pump driven by the timing gears. The sandwich pump im wanting is different. it has a sew of male and female two bolt flanges. You remover the dist and it bolts to the same drive where the dist was with a male coupling. then the other end has a female outlet and you mount the dist to it. You need a 90 degree Delco Remy Dist to clear the oil filter when you install one.
I suppose your correct. The advantage is you can release the hand clutch and the tractor no longer has power to the trans gears. However the PTO is still live. That way you can reduce or stop the ground speed when your going down a hill or encounter a thick patch of windrowed hay. It would be handy for brush hogging also. Those M&W clutches aren't easy to find and not many where sold in my part of the country. The live PTO on my 350 Row Crop leaves a lot to be desired and that C175 engine hasn't got near the power of a M. and the 350,s Disk Brakes aint too great also. I intend to sell the 350. Its longer than a M. lighter and just doesn't suit me. I call it a H in a Fancy Dress. Theres a consignment auction in April. I need to get it running again. (Hasn't been started in 5 years) and take it to the auction.
Old Wolf, you are spot on on that pinion clutch, an awesome addition to an old tractor that doesn’t have live or independ pto. Makes a lot of things easier to accomplish. Those disc brakes have always work very good for me, as long as the disc are not really worn. I find that sometimes just disassembling and cleaning of the balls and ramps will greatly improve their performance. I have an International 504 utility style diesel tractor, that is my favorite! Diesel power, power steering, torque amplifier, independ pto.... if it had traction lock, it would be the perfect tractor. Spent many days/years in the hay field with it. I was the cycle/sickle bar champion of the world! Bones
I gotcha, I thought what I had was called a sandwich pump. It does drive off the cam gear. I might try the straight 30w, it might be thick enough to keep it from pushing oil out.
Ive had a negative experience with three tractors I owned that had disk brakes. A VAC Case & a 930 Case and the 350 International.and all three the disc got glazed and they wouldn't stop without a great amount of pedal pressure. In fact my son Zach pushed so hard he was pulling against and broke the steering wheel completely off the 350 the last time we bailed hay with it. I think the steep grades along with driving several miles in high gear roading the tractors is what made the disc brakes glaze. The Utility 300 has disc and they are Ok. but we never roaded it. and the pedals are arranged better they have more leverage and you sorta stand on them and can apply all your weight when you apply them. I have had the brakes off the 350 and installed brand new parts and they only worked good for a short time. Possibly if I could find some Asbestos linings it would work better. I simply don't like ,use or need the 350 so im gonna sell it. I also don't like the battery being in a box under the seat and you have to remove two bolts to get to the battery. The 301 JD I have has power steering and Power Disc Brakes and it seems to work great. but I haven't actually used it enough to actually know for certain.
Man , that’s strange... my 504 would always stop on a dime, same with the G-Molines , 602 Moline, 1030 Case. The U Molines had shoe brakes I think. Getting old. Bones
I owned a few molines in the past. model U and they had power but used a tremendious amount of gas. Has a Z for a few weeks sold it for $650 more tham I paid. Had one that was LP Twin Citys that was a Rice Tractor. It had huge 30 inch rear tires. If whatever you hooked to didn't move the deep tread tires just dug two big holes in the ground in a few seconds. We eventually junked it when the rear tires blew out. Made a power unit out of the engine. pulled a sawmill. the radiator got packed with sawdust and it overheated and cracked a head. So we hooked a open top 55 gallon drum up to it . no radiator or fan . and it would run about 5 hours before we boiled that 55 gal of water. So we just sawed for 5 hours a day. It and the sawmill was still at my parents farm when they probated their estate.
Old Wolf, back about 1960-5 all we had on the ranch was a 1934 WC Allis Chamlbers and a T0-30 Ferguson. My Dad bought a UT row crop LP Moline. That was it for me, I thought that was the baddest tractor on the planet! If I could hook up the world..... I d jerk it sideways! Since then I’ve purchased at least 12 Molines , some run some were parts tractors. Don’t use them anymore, we’ve leased the ranch out, so all the tractors just sit now. Always wanted a G-1000 Vista........Still have my UT though! Bones
always took the seat off the U Molines and stood on the platform. that hand clutch didn't have much feather to it. when it popped in if you where hooked to a plow the front wheels came off the ground. There was a guy here that farmed 850 acres most of it row crop 11 point river bottom land. He farmed with Molines. After He died at his estate auction.my dad and I bought all of the molines that didn't run over a dozen of them. Most had good 38 inch rear tires that we swapped rim and tire on to our H&M Farmalls. Once I unbolted a U and put it all except for the tires in a 3/4 pickup truck. When I got to the scrapper he had me back off the scales. Had to weight it twice. To this day I hold the record for the most weight in a Pickup Truck at Shannon salvage.
In 1971 we were in the watermelon business, supplying all the Safeway stores in a three state area. We also sold some in Joplin. We had a 59 Ford two ton with a tag axle, 22 ft bed. I drove our 1970 Ford 1/2 ton pickup with the four stage overload springs on it loaded with melons as a chase truck. We loaded as many as that long wheel base truck could hold, peaking them up in the middle. When I went across the scales in Joplin, 100+ miles from home ,I had 4400 lbs of melons in that 1/2 Ford pickup and it drove like we were on a Sunday drive! Bones
My wife has the 66 chevy 3/4 ton her dad bought new. It has a 292 ans SM 420 granny 4 speed. She on a regular basis would haul 6500 pounds of feed on it From Thayer Mo to our place. She hauled $30,000 worth of feed that year.
A few more pictures. VAC Case it runs and I have parts of two more. I want to sell them. Modified B Farmall. Someone narrowed the rear to be like a A and rigged up a wide front end It has real good rear tires. The block has been froze & busted beyond repair. one of six M Farmalls I own Block is bad rained dwwn the exhaust and froze and busted from the inside ive got a replacement engine for it. . Another M that im making into a loader tractor. Ive got a wide front end for it. A M I junked. Notice the different style of PTO. M y Super A that has a souped up 200 engine. I want to install the woods belly mower on it.
Heres a picture of the Row crop 350. I don't like it. I call it a H in a fancy dress. Notice the steering wheel. My son broke the wheel completely off pushing on the glazed brakes attempting to get it to stop. so I Put the banjo wheel on it and drove it to where its setting. I need to sell it. I have the correct sheetmetal for it.It does have some good features like the live hydraulic. and the single front wheel makes it steer real easy.It also has the fast hitch.
That 350 shares some parts with my 504 International, one being the brakes, I think. I rebuilt my brakes when I purchased my tractor in the 1990s. I used my tractor with a sickle bar mower most of the time and used the right brake almost constantly turning I would also pull the torque amplifier to cut my speed in half, while making the turn. We baled 300 acres or so every year for close to twenty years. Always stopped good, I did resurface the expanding plates and put new disc in . I did have to adjust the brakes a couple of times. If my 504 had a locking differential, it would be the perfect tractor. I only have one tractor with a single front wheel, I see you have at least two. That is the best set up for a tricycle tractor. Most folks think they are odd, and I guess they are, but they steer a lot easier, and tricycle tractors will turn sharper that wide front end tractors. I’ve got a 1934 WC Allis that will pivot on one rear wheel. Bones
You can sometimes find the wishbone single front wheels on old junk cotton pickers. My M Farmall with the single front wheel turns sharper than the 350. Because the 350 is longer. My gas 350 don't have the Torque amplifier. The 350 diesel I own does have the torque amplifier. It also has power steering. My hay fields are small and irregular and up and down. I think the 301 JD I have with a mid mount mower will be much better than the M that I used this year.
That's strange, the 350 row crop mounts the distributor vertically while on the 300 Utility like mine it's horizontal. My brakes work fair on one wheel, almost nothing on the other. Been planning on buying new discs for mine just never have gotten around to it. My Torque Amplifier does nothing, guess it's worn out. My land is fairly level, so when dragging the bush hog or box blade, it stops pretty well. Has gotten interesting a time or two though. One of the worse things about mine is the clutch sometimes refuses to release. It seems to happen the worst when you get a wheel in a jam or pull up a load against something. Once I was pulling a old car without any tires to load up for scrap, had the front end picked up so it wouldn't dig in or so I thought, ended up front cross member hung on a pine stump. As soon as it hung, the tractor stood up at a 45* angle with me standing on the clutch pedal! And it will not come out of gear when it does this until you let pressure off the rear end somehow. When it still had the fast hitch, I could use the down pressure on the hydraulics to pick up a tire just enough to let the pressure off the trans. I couldn't do it that day, as soon as I tried to crank it, it would go up higher. I had to let it sit a few hours before it slowly sat down and I could get it out of gear, then sat the load down and unhooked it.
I worked for the City , Summers, when I was going to school. I ran a almost new International 424 with a side mount mower, to mow streets and alleys. But it only had a 5 ft sickle. I begged the city to let me put a 9 ft bar on it to get more done. Finally they let me put a 7 ft bar on it, mostly to just shut me up,I imagine. I would run it in the up right position and run up and down the alleys trimming them back for the garbage trucks. No one had ever seen that done! I loved running that side mount. Always tried to find another one to put on my 504, so I didn’t have to look back all the time. We quit putting up our own hay before I could find one. Running a sickle bar is an art. Bones
That's a Delco dist. Its the type you need if you put a sandwich pump on a Hor M farmall. Your clutch likely is worn. possibly the splines on the inpuit shaft. possibly the pivot pins and holes on the pressure plate fingers or even a bad pilot bearing.
Yes a sickle bar takes some skill. everyone now has those disk mowers. I think I will like the Sickle bar. mine has the mid PTO. and two hyd cyls. one to lift the mower and the other raises the sickle bar from horizontal to vertical. I bought the tractor for $750 and they told me the engine was locked up. turned out the water Pump was locked and the starter burnt up. I pus the JD nose on a chevy starter. Pressed the water pump apart and found a NOS shaft & bearing in my hoard. Packed the Seal in RTV silicone. new points and clean fuel system and its runs great.
Probably right. This old tractor has been passed around the county several times with nobody really fixing anything on it. I've been replacing and improving stuff since the first day I got it. Had to build my own 3 point lift out of Ford lower arms and other things when the belly bolt holes for the quick hitch stripped out. Had to remove 7 broken off bolts that hold the rock shaft bracketry on, replaced all of them with grade 8 stuff. Fuel system was rusty, cleaned and coated the tank, new settlement valve and bowl, new steel line to carb. Planning on ordering the O ring and gasket kit from Steiner Tractor and rebuilding the hydraulic sometime this summer, hope that will keep it from pushing all the oil into the engine crankcase. If it doesn't, I may just buy a new pump and drive it off the front of the crankshaft. I love tinkering with it, the old thing runs pretty good aside from oil fouling a plug or two. It's about all I need around here, with it and my Pa in Law's 8N, I keep things cleared and hauled off.
I liketo call mine a H in a Fancy dress. however a H has a little 152 inch engine the 350 has a 175 engine. the h if you used it hard would overheat. Ive never had the 350 get even close to overheating. There is a vent some place on the Hyd . If that vent gets clogged it will build too much pressure and no pump seal will fix it.
You know, now that you mention that, I had forgotten about that vent. I think it's on the underseat tank, I'll have to give it a look next time I'm out there.
Lots of work this winter for the Ford 600. It has a tendency to run lean but got it dialed in pretty good now. I've been moving a bunch of snow. Hope this was the last storm for this winter.
Just brought home a old farm/yard tractor that my brother give me ..he got it from a farm that he had cleaned up after a estate sale..it appears to be hand built ...using ..what looks like model t front and rear axles that have been narrowed..possibly transmission is also from a t ...I guess it was used as a small orchard sprayer..that's what the pump next to the engine was for ghen it pulled a tank trailer I'm going to clean it up and try to get it working again... Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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