My brother is not with us, but bill (driver most of the time) is still kicking. So I want to surprise him and show up at his house with the car and let him take it for a drive. So I want to get the car close,especially the interior. Thanks junior stock for the information!! Any and all information is deeply appreciated. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I'd leave the rear suspension as is, and just use the 7" wide slicks; same with the tubular A-arms. Make it "look" the part on the outside/interior. Do what you want for an engine/trans, just make it look the part. Finding the "correct" parts can be hard, and costly. JMO. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
Is your intent to build it to 1968 specs, or to meet 2019 rules...they're different. 1968 rules: In general: Must use stock engine block slightly overboard .060 max. (engine in stock location) , stock heads (no porting) stock compression ratio, stock intake and carb(s), stock transmission (any gear set) Didn't require a roll bar. Had to use stock gas tank and stock appearing shocks. Interior had to be stock. But yes, we took all the padding out, and lightened where it couldn't obviously be seen. As well as exterior. (light mods allowed) stock bumpers. 7" slicks (grooved) pretty much any wheel, any front tires. We always ran stock heater, although don't remember if it was connected. Had to have all stock frame and suspension components. You could modify A arms. Rear had to have original housing...any gear. Could add traction bars. (Some exceptions were taken to certain traction gizmo's at different times.) The secret cheater stuff (all types) is what made the difference and $$ Get the Jr Stocker book...name? as reference. 2019 rules are different from old rules...allow a lot more mods and other stuff.
Thanks for all the information guys. This is my plan,but nothing in stone. I have a 283 no side motor mount block that is good, 283 steel crank, a few power pack heads, not sure what year, small journal hd rods. Probably go hyper f/t pistons. 961 for 305 ci Steel shim head gasket. I used mostly isky cams when I use to build motors , I don't know if they make a blue printed stock cam, but the original car had the lunati. I have a factory in the tube 151 cam that works in 283 2x4 if advanced a few degrees. I have a factory 2x4 intake with 348 engine WCFB carb one stolen but found another(easy to change carbs later don't want to spend $3000 for reproductions right now). I want to use a iron glide because it's period and I have never built one. Someone gave me Marv ripes ph# on here ,guess he may know a little about iron glides.lol The body is off the frame. Frame has been sand blasted. I want to put the leaf springs back out side the frame rails ,welds look like they used chewing gum , and for stability , not running rear sway bar. I have ford 9" and8" rear end housings and third members we use in charger cars and street stocks and can go back to stock when I find good stock parts. Going to make rear shock top mount bar. That stahl torque control arm looks like fun little build for my nephew, if I had some dimensions. It's close to some of the torque arms for modified dirt. My guess is U can run a softer leaf set for better transfer and not have so much spring windup. All new stock front suspension, poly bushings moog ball joints etc. I know nothing about drag shock splits or what u could run. But get a deal on afco shocks. Now things I want are, seat belt harness with seat bar or roll bar not sure,disc brakes and fuel cell for safety and I can get it cheap. Now exhaust has to be on the car but not hooked up? They ran stahl fender well headers nothing hooked to the collectors. He had them chromed inside and outside with I think the same chrome he had on the crankshaft but not sure.OKjust took a look at the first picture taken of the car when they won some championship ,headers are black and have something on the end. I will try to post pic. Now body,,, no clue, want to keep wiring clean and simple. I need a front seat. I have a four door seat I might use until I can find a 2dr sedan seat for under $1,000,000,000. I don't want any interior I don't need,and let's face it, less I have to put back in the car the less work and money. So it's going to start a bit of a mix bag/work in progress with late 60s jr drag replica aspirations. Wish Barry was around for this. In 1971 or 72 nhra pissed him off for some reason and he never drag race cars again. He went to snowmobiles and got a factory Polaris sponsorship. Anyways if u take the time to read this and offer suggestions I greatly appreciate it and u thanks. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
forgot picture u can kinda see something on collector under noise by stahl. Thanks.. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app this is after headers had been chromed.
I took the exhaust off mine. It was just hung on there with bailing wire any way. As for a rear seat I guess a business coupe did not have one. Wish you were closer I have 2 cast iron Glides. If you can figure out how to get them you can have one or both. They are in my shop and one came out of a friends 55 that ran. I had it in my car while I had mine out just so I could move it in and out of the shop.
Wasn't there a thread about the indoor drags on here a few years ago? I wasn't even a sparkle in my dad's eye, but I would love to have been there. Could you imagine the sound? Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/indoor-drag-racing.95011/ Here it is. It's from 2006. Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Old Chevy Luver, like you I was not around when jr stock was happening but I have a few things going for me. I drive a retired jr stock (58-71) as my daily driver plus my buddy/mentor is a jr stock guy. Don’t take offense but you have enough stuff that is “not correct” that you don’t have to worry too much about some things and you can focus on others. Example, personally I wouldn’t use a non side mount engine for my race motor because they have some value to the restoration guys. Then again if that is what you have I can’t blame you. As for the heater if your car doesn’t have one and you have to buy the stuff just buy the repo delete kit online. For your seat there is nothing wrong with running the 4dr seat especially if it a race car and people aren’t riding in the back. As for the iron glide.... . obviously than ran them but a 4spd would not get you kicked out of anybody’s jr stock party and is a lot more fun IMHO. Then again if automatic is all you know and what you drive I can understand that too. For the carbs I run the same thing (58’ 348 carbs) 59 and later don’t look right because if the fuel inlet among other things. Do you have stahl headers for your car? Don’t forget the ball joint spacers! I can’t wait to see the build on your car. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for reply 31hotrodguy. The car is going be a tribute of my brothers 57 chevy stocker "aggregation."we raced a lot of different cars out of our dealership, but aggregation started it all.Car was sold and totaled in in Iowa late 70s and last year my brother died.The block was a spare block for the car. It's hung around our chevy dealership since 1967 and made it through 3 different buildings. So it's destiny. Lol We scrapped a bunch of those blocks because in the 70s & 80s u couldn't give them away, big mistake. Ha. I want to go with a iron glide, because of a few reasons I have never built one ( I have built metrics,400s 350s 700s etc) for family cars and all out race cars )aggregation also had one m/sa .and I feel they are easier on equipment than a manual. I know there are things that aren't right,but I plan on replacing things with correct parts over time. Some of the wrong stuff, I have readily available,like ford rear end , because we build jigged dirt chassis CRC race cars. We also have a jig for ford rear ends. I plan on putting a stock 57 rear end in it after finding good parts. Some stuff is for safety like disc brakes seat bar or roll bar for seat belt harness and f cell. I was around when my brother built the car (but young)and went to tvd when I could. But I agree with all u said under different circumstances and it's kinda what i am doing. There is some pressure to get it right, because the car was kinda a local hero and people are excited to see it done. I was confused about heater. Until I was told it was a option, on this thread, all heater holes on my car have been covered and blended.I have everything that came off the car but I don't want to install any thing I don't need and interiors rules I feel are a little vague. I came to this thread to get answers on gray areas and things i don't know or have wrong . And maybe get a secret or two from the old guys, I mean how long do they have left ,it would be wrong not to share..lol.As far as what I know,I think I drag raced twice in high school and street race a z/28(4 speed ha) a few times. I then got hooked on going fast and turning left. So building a 57 stocker and drag racing I am clueless. But having fun learning. U drive a Vintage Drag car for a daily,that's cool. I am Definitely not offended, and thanks for reply. No o I don't have stahl headers . going to attempt mandrel bending exhaust pipe and copy but hard not to kink. Probably go fender wall speedways till figure something else out. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thought it was time to share my 57 150 2dr Handyman Jr Stocker/ street car build. Purchased it a couple years ago was in a barn for the last 35 plus years. Will be running a 283 or a 327 with a factory dual 4bbl setup, with early Stahl fenderwell headers . Car is currently apart with a full chassis rebuild . Hoping to have done to run at the Trifive Nationals this August.
In the mid 1960's, Car Craft Magazine had a series of articles on "How To Build The Ultimate Junior Stock". Might be a good idea to get the issues that these ran in. A good book on building an early 283, (and 265), is "How To Modify Chevy V8 Engines" by Don Francisco. It was first printed in the mid 1950's and contains information that is specific to the early, non-side mount engines. You can probably find these on Ebay. That's where I did.
^^^^Beautiful 57 Chevrolet Handyman Wagon, and perfect stance!!!^^^^ Keep posting to this thread on your build. I am Butch?56sedandelivery.
Just wondering...where did that car come from? I have been chasing rumors of one in my area. Just found out the other day it might have gone to western Maryland or maybe south-western Pa. Thanks, Gene.
Flatrocker, the Joe Allread, 1957 150 Wagon, was photographed for Hot Rod Magazine (I think it was HRM and not CCM) without an engine/transmission in it; and it was raised up quite a bit without that weight. It was a beautiful car at the time. I think a LOT of the Junior Stock guys spent money on how their cars looked, to get the average Joe behind them in their efforts to stand out. IF you go with an automatic, try an aluminum Powerglide and race converter (some adaption needed), as opposed to a manual shift transmission; you'll save on rear end parts for sure! It was a really colorful class! I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
^^^^There was some "controversy" involved when NHRA was't going to allow Tokyo Rose to race in "that condition" (repairs not completed)^^^^. Cars had to put forth a nice appearance, and they were challenging Tokyo Rose's appearance at the time. They relented, and let the car race. After the bodywork and paint were finished, the car was now blue with white stripes on the roof; no longer the "rose" color that lead to the name, Tokyo Rose. All of little George's race cars carried that name, irregardless of their color and make. That's quite the lineup in the above photo. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
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