Hot Rods Model A body on ‘32 chassis WITH FENDERS- Help!

To me, flawless chrome has its places. Nothing wrong with it, if you can afford it and the proper ways to preserve it. (not setting outside) Nothing wrong with a bit of rust and pits on a survivor hot rod.

 

Here is a few of my cars

 

You need to know this is a addictive hobby !!

 

You’re either not married or your wife is a saint!


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Well she is a saint she drives a CTS V with 900 hp and bakes me cookies but she knows what makes me happy so she tells me go work on my cars today was our 30th anniversary and went to the shop and fixed the brakes on the 32 I had a hot rod when we met she knows that she is first then the dogs and the hot rods we both enjoy them she likes to watch me build them also gathering the parts !!

 

You are my hero...

 

That 5 window coupe is badass


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Yes, the original wishbone was joined together in the center line of the car, which allowed the entire rear axle to pivot, so each wheel could move up & down without the other also moving up & down, or one side could rise up while the other went down, it was a very flexible system with a lot of articulation. When the bones are split and moved out to the frame rails, the rear suspension loses that articulation. If one wheels is forced up over a bump or twist in the road surface (like entering a driveway at an angle) and rear suspension binds and forces are transmitted through the bones into the frame rails. So, moving the bones back in toward the center improves articulation.

Also, when you accelerate the rear axle wants to pivot, the pinion wants to roll up. The original car used a torque tube to handle this force, it worked good. With the torque tube gone the bones now have to handle all that stress. The harder you accelerate, the harder the launch, the more force is generated as the axles wants to pivot.

So there are 2 things the bones are dealing with that they were not designed to. But, looking again at the bones they look like they are 35 - 36 wishbones, which are the best/strongest for this, so that's good. Still you might want to consider incorporating a torque arm, to take that stress off of them.

Again, there are a lot of threads here on this subject that will explain it better than I can, do some searching on rear radius rods.

Here is one thread: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rear-radius-rods.659939/

here's another: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-rear-open-drive-conversion-lets-argue.22539/

There is a lot more out there. The thing is, guys have already been talking to you about improving the structure of the chassis, adding an X-member. Well, this is something I recommend you also consider.

Like I said, the way yours are mounted in traditional, period correct. But it does lead to failure too, that is well documented.

IIRC one of the things you mentioned about the car was poor handling. If you want to improve the ride & handling this is a key area to address. As well as the safety aspect. Having a rear radius arm fail on you at speed could ruin your whole day....

 

Check out the pictures in this thread for an example of what can happen:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...1st-drive-in-the-coupe-and-i-broke-it.184446/

 

From looking at the photos, your rear axel definitely is a 55 - 56 Chevy. 57 - 64 axels had different axel ends and use different wheel bearings. Be prepared to hear how awful, weak, crappy, junk, etc. that these rear axels are. You'll be advised to put a 9" Ford in, or an S-10, or Toyota, or whatever.......Anything except that "Junk Chevy axel".

On the contrary, the 55 - 64 Chevy rear axels are really a good design, and were well made. In addition, current parts availability is quite good. There has been millions and millions of miles put on them, in the original 55 - 64 Chevys. Many, many were drag raced, (and still are). They were used in road racing, in the 62 and older Vettes, as well as in NASCAR racing. The bad reputation is very undeserved.

Just go through the entire rear axel, checking everything, and rebuilding / replacing what is needed. By doing this, the Chevy axel will provide thousands and thousands of miles.

If for whatever reason, you do want to beef it up, aftermarket axel shafts, brand new Posi units, bearing cap reinforcement plates, and ring and pinions are available. Also, Moser sells rear axel housing ends that can be used to adapt the 57 - 64 Pontiac, rear wheel bearings, (also called the "Big Ford" bearings), to the Chevy axels. By the way, the 55 - 64 Chevy rear end uses the same ring gear bolts as a 12 bolt Chevy, and 57 - 64 Pontiac / Olds rear end. These are available from ARP.

For a different intake, perhaps look around for an Edelbrock C4B. They are a still a good design, and will have the provision for an oil filler tube, and breather cap. Also, the original AFB will bolt right on, if you want to reuse it. As far as being era correct, the C4B was introduced around 1965.

By the way, the date code on the cast iron intake.....B2 5 shows that the intake was cast on February 2nd, of 1965. The intake and carb probably was on a 300 HP 327, before being installed on your 283.

 

Thanks Tork-I never dated the intake, only the engine.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Man if you lived 300 miles closer we would blast that chassis tidy that frame and put a 40 ford x member in it pancake the rear cross member put a 40 ford front spring on the rear end rebuild the rear end clean up that front axle rechrome the front backing plates put a dual master cylinder on it gear box of your choice clean that 283 up I love that dash classic instruments will give you a quote to rebuild them Pete and Jake hair pens are worth the money a good radiator and wiring harness are worth the money We all would like the pros to built our cars but theres something about doing yourself and driving it that I cant explain to you M y cars are not perfect but they are safe and fun !! I think you are going to need a shorter 32 radiator a model a front cross member and a reversed eye front spring

 

Thanks. Read my signature ha ha.

 

If you look close you'll see the steering wasn't hooked up. This picture was before the car was on the road. Not quite as shinny now.

 

Howdy, I’m RiffRaffRoadster’s son Reese. I’m into 60’s-70’s muscle cars and late model muscle. That being said, traditional hot rods just don’t look as mean to me, especially with fenders. I’m looking for ways to make the car more aggressive (lowered headlights, bigger rear tires, raked suspension, chopped windshield, etc) while keeping it period correct.

What are some ways that y’all would recommend to make the car more aggressive?

As I understand it there was fender laws back in the 50’s so hotrodders would use detachable fenders. I’m a big fan of highboy style roadsters so would that be an acceptable modification?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

We have a pretty big gang that won't let you do that. We will find you and stop you ! Suggest you join Good Guys and get a subscription to Street Rodder asap.

 

I think to achieve what both You want and what your Dad wants you'll end up building 2 cars.

 

Which part is wrong?


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Reese, I'm with you on the Nasty profiles. I like Big-n-Little wheels and tires and big horse power. That didn't happen much till the late 60's. Time and date is a big part of a build. Mix-n-match can kill the over all look of any vehicle.

 

This says "get outta my way"
And this backed it up. This was the 70's

 

I agree, it looks bad ass but I feel like it’s hard to make it really aggressive with fenders.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Wow ! What I said was a joke guy's. I have doubts this is really RiffRaffs son. If I'm wrong I apologies but I'm pretty sure he's not going to talk his father into building THIS car fender less. By the way I too like highboy's on a rake with big and littles.

 

You got that right.

 

If I’m not his son then how do you explain this gut and shotgun barrel nose.

I was asking about the detachable fenders because I like high boys and he likes full fendered.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Wasn't uncommon to remove the fenders for a blast over a dry lake bed, then bolt them back on when driving around to keep the local constabulary happy.
-Dave

 

Yes.

 

Build two cars is a great solution.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Ok, my bad. Just look around here on Hamb and you'll find a lot of examples of what you like. I guess the statement about 70's muscle cars and late model muscle is what threw me.

 

We both like cars that were built 30 years before we were born. I like late model muscle because in 60 years from now when cars are electric, your kids kids will be talking about them as you are with 30’s hot rods.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I was wondering what that empty connector was...