Hi, I've always been attracted to Modifieds. That raw, basic nature of them. I even partnered in a business that sold Modified kits. I used to prefer them lower, but not quite the extreme that the RR phase made dragging on the ground. I couple of years ago, I went back home to the UK to go to the VHRA Pendine races. Chris, my best buddy, let me run his Pre-War style Model A roadster. What a blast! Pendine attracts that early style rods. My '33 coupe is built in a late '50s style, and finding the urge to build "the next one", I decided it would be in the early '40s style. So I set about collecting parts. Model A frame, wire wheels, banjo rear and a '35 front end. I wanted an early engine but didn't really fancy a Flathead or a Banger, so settled on a Chevy 6. Something a bit different. Got a '50s 235, but I've got an earlier valve cover so it will look the part. When I sold my '25 roadster to finance this car, Scott generously gave me a McGurg double intake and carbs. What a result, thanks again. So, I suppose this will become a build thread. This week I've just mocked it up. Its sitting with the weight on the springs, so its established the ride height. I've tack welded the '35 front crossmember in, split the front wishbone and bent the spring perches. I'm running the rear spring in front of the axle, so mocked it up by turning the banjo round. No smart-arse comments about it pointing the wrong way! I like the rear axle tucked up against the back of the tub, so the frame will need to shortened to allow that. The back wheel is where it will end up. I toyed with the idea of narrowing the body to make a true one man modified, but settled on a stock width body so Lisa can ride along with. So some pictures. One of mine mocked up, and others of cars I used for inspiration. Cheers, Stewart.
You got a good start. Modifieds are difficult to build being so tiny that everything has to fit 'just so', there isn't any extra space to stick something later on. Looks like you got some nice pieces to work with.
Nice project! I'm adding this photo that was on the Photos From The Past thread a few days ago. The finish on the kickups on the #19 you posted look great, may copy the look on my Bobtail project. Bob
This is a friend of mine's car. Built by a H.A.M.B member. Chappy https://www.hotrod.com/articles/spe...t-rod/#06-1923-ford-roadster-modified-meekins
The rear frame horns on the #19 car, are so graceful, a bit out of line with most modifieds of the era, which were more about all out speed than looking pretty.
I LOVE the fact that you are using an inline Chev 6cyl. for the project.......got a couple of potential 216/235 engines sitting in the shed for maybe, maybe a future project along these lines. I'll be following the build
I'll be following. I've got a long-term 26 T project in the same vein. Mine is narrowed about 4 inches, and will ride on a 20's Chevy frame. I took the easy way out and am using a flathead 8. It's based on the Garrick modified and will use the same measurements.
I wanted to use a Chevy frame, but couldn't find one. Then a Model A frame came up cheap and local, so that's what I started with. Cheers, Stewart.
You are correct, Clark did build that car, and he is a member here. @Clark He probably won't respond to this post as I suspect he is thrashing on a car for Jaloparama. Chappy
I decided I wanted to use a "35 front suspension. Its a bit lower than a '28-'34, but keeps the narrower perch pin distance. This becomes a factor when the 'bones are split and moved out to the frame, as the tyres can rub on the 'bones with the later axles. The problem with using the '35 suspension is the front spring is wider, so the front crossmember needs modifying. I chose to cut down and narrow a"35 front crossmember. Whilst doing that, I narrowed the frame rail width to match the T grille shell better. The crossmember is set at 6 degrees from level with all the weight on the springs. Next came engine mounts. I wanted the mounts simple and clean. I like rounded corners so used a piece of box cut down to make the upright. This upright spans the open side of the frame rail as I'm not boxing the rails. Can't make my mind up if I'm going to put lightening holes in them yet. On to the engine side mounts next. Cheers, Stewart.
I was using a big Ford inline 6 originally in mine. It has since evolved into more of a shortened touring with a speedster nose and a flathead but this is still quite relevant to my interests! What rear end are you using? You shouldn't really need to shorten the frame if you use one of the later spring-behind rears with an arched A or T spring. That will move your WB in about 7.5" iirc (from 103" stock Model A to about 95.5") . On mine, I wanted a longer WB so I flipped the bells on my rear and put the spring ahead (110.5"). With your spring-ahead setup, you'd end up somewhere around 90" from the looks of it.
Patmanta, Wheelbase comes out around 100". I started at the front replacing the Model A crossmember with one from a '35. This moved the front axle back 4 1/2". I then moved the grille/radiator back 5" behind the axle line. Then I pushed the engine up to the radiator. The body then got pushed to the back of the engine. I'm turning the rear axle bells around, which is a '42, so the spring is in front. I'm using an A rear spring. I like the rear axle pushed up to the back of the tub, so basically I moved the rear wheel up to where I liked it. I will need to cut 6" out of the frame rails at the back. I'll have to make some support arms to hold the '28 Chevy gas tank out back. Cheers, Stewart.
Keep up the good work. I love to see the progress. My T's wheelbase will be about 95" to get the proportions of the Garrick T. I'm sure I'll have to do some slicing and dicing to make everything fit. I have a special treatment planned for the backside that I've never seen anywhere except my dreams. I hope it works out.
For me it was replicating the look of early modifieds and placing some of my own aesthetic choices. I like grille shells behind the front axle line. I also like the rear axle right up against the back of the tub, with the tyres covering the side of the body a little. This leaves everything set back from the axle lines and compact within the wheelbase. I was aiming for about 100" wheelbase, and it just worked at that. I'm well pleased. Cheers, Stewart. Oh yeah, I decided on lightening the mounts. The down side to this decision is that all future brackets will need to have the same treatment! Lots of unibits in my future then!
So got the engine mounts finished. I wanted them to like they were stamped and formed like an OEM mount would have been. To get rounded edges of formed part I used 2"x2" .125 wall with one side cut off. Then used a strip cut off a 2" .125 wall round tube to make the front lip. A lot of work with a sander and die grinder, but it gives the look I was after. On to the mid-mounts and the tail housing mount. Cheers, Stewart.
I got a crossmember from a '46 pick-up hoping that it would work, but it doesn't. One of pet peeves is some cars have the grille shell too high relative to the top of the cowl. I'm using a '27 grille shell, the tallest of T grille shells. I'm using the stock fan on the 235/ In order to not have the fan hit the top hose, I had to mount the engine/trans lower in the frame than normal. This leaves the rear of the transmission too low for the pick-up crossmember. Bugger! I wanted something that looked OEM as opposed to square or round tube. So I took another look at the pick-up crossmember. I decided to cut the top 1 1/2" of the crossmember. This creates a strong part, with several flanges. I'm using a T5 transmission. The stock rubber mount is tall, which would drop the crossmember really low. As the car sits fairly high it would be easily seen. So I decided to mount the crossmember solidly to the transmission, and then rubber mount the crossmember to the frame centre x-member (yet to be made). The dip in the centre of the pick-up crossmember was too narrow for the T5. So I cut the flange out and made a new one wide enough to take the T5. As with the engine mounts, I wanted rounded edges as if it had been formed. It needs to be trimmed in width to fit the frames x-member. Making the x-member is next on the list. Cheers, Stewart.
In order to finish the transmission mount and the mid-mounts, I needed to make the centre x-member. So today was working out what that looks like. Clamping some lengths of flat stock and even a ruler to represent the channel. Lots of measurements. Will start to make it tomorrow. Cheers, Stewart.
Stu check out my one man! It's listed under BACK ON THE BUILD AFTER A 10 YEAR HIATIS! FUN TO SEE YOUR PROGRESS Ron
So got the right side of the x-member put together today. It looks really heavy to me ;<). Need to buy a 2 1/2" hole saw to make it look more "Ford like". The rear leg had to be tapered to fit the frame rail. Made little cut outs in the tabs that fit in the frame rails so there is room for wiring and fuel line. Cheers, Stewart.
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