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Hot Rods 54 Ford Customline help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeff Bohmann, Mar 7, 2019.

  1. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    i just started a 1954 Ford customline build and running into first problem. Anybody out there with some info? I’m sure I will run into many as I am in the beginning of the project.
    I have a small block Chevy that I planned on dropping in with a th350 trans. I am looking at the straight 6 in the engine bay ready to start removal for the engine swap and I see a problem. Looks like the rear sump pan is going to be a problem with hitting the center link of the steering. Has anyone done a Chevy swap and run into and or solved this problem?
    I am kicking around some ideas but don’t know it there is an easy way to accomplish this.
    One would be to alter the pan, the other thing I was looking at was to cut the firewall and move it back to set the engine back out of the way of the steering. Any help on my first issue, 1 hour into this build would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. brokedownbiker
    Joined: Jun 7, 2016
    Posts: 688

    brokedownbiker
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    From what I've heard and seen, your best bet is to replace the front clip completely. 49-51 Fords have lots of aftermarket support as far as oil pans, motor mounts, etc. but not the later '50's models. Of course I am certainly no Ford expert, I am still working on my first Shoebox.
    Maybe some of the more knowledgeable hands around here have more or better info; I have sure gotten a lot of help from the brain-trust here, there is a ton of car knowledge on the HAMB.
     
  3. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    I was going to but so many folks said don’t do it because the 54 ford has a modern A arm suspension and all that. So I ended up buying some drop spindles and a front end rebuild kit and now I am a grand invested and too late to turn back.
     
  4. ark_rat
    Joined: Feb 11, 2013
    Posts: 51

    ark_rat
    Member
    from arkansas

    Put a ford in a ford
     
  5. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    Im probably no help but have saw pans altered many times....I had a 64 chevy II years back that I wanted to put a v8 in, the factory v8 chevy II pans were different, Think they were a front sump pan, you had to get a different pickup tube that went to the front as well.....It never happened but.....seems like a factory v8 monza pan is different too but I dont know for sure
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2019
  6. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    .....also had a friend swap sides with the spindles somehow on a early 60s falcon so his drag link would be in front or vice versa cant remember the details......
     
  7. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    I’m also looking at seeing if I can alter the center link. I don’t see why it couldn’t be reconfigured to avoid the pan as long as you keep the original length. Not sure though.
     
  8. typo41
    Joined: Jul 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,571

    typo41
    Member Emeritus

    In 'The Old Days" they dropped the center link to clear the pan,,, might have a vintage article on it... ill check
     
    scrap metal 48 likes this.
  9. Well you'll get all kinds of input on every question you ask around here. I don't think cutting into the Firewall is a good choice at all. In fact I would avoid that at all costs. You should check out what all is on the inside of the firewall, you may end up agreeing with me. The oil pump and screen is the issue with cutting into your 350 pan. Of course you have the Oil filter right there also. Dropped center link is an Age old cure in those cars. Another option is to raise the motor till it clears things. Yes if it was a small block Ford you could go to the Bronco type pan but that isn't going to happen eh?
     
  10. P.S. In the long run you'll be glad you didn't go with that M-2 Junk
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  11. Sorry but no one in their right mind would remove a far superior front suspension and replace it with a pin & link still.

    You are correct, the '54 Ford front suspension is basically the same as what is in use today, I used dropped spindles from Fatman on our '54 Ranch Wagon.

    The Ford fit's great. HRP
     
    Atwater Mike likes this.
  12. Check out the '52-'59 Ford social forum, I'm sure there will be someone that used a sbc Chevy. HRP

    CLICK HERE
     
  13. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,121

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Google "Butch's cool stuff".. He has engine and trans mounts for putting a sbc in 54-56 Fords with instructions on lowering the center link.. Has other cool stuff too....
     
    Jeff Bohmann and catdad49 like this.
  14. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    I looked at that, may be an option but it also looks like it will not clear the front of the sump. I may be wrong.
     
  15. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Called butch’s and left a message. Maybe they will have some ideas. Dave at drop and stop is also helping. He has some customers that have done it. He is going to check.
     
    scrap metal 48 likes this.
  16. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,566

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    You can buy notched pans from jegs summit etc. if you know what you need
     
  17. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Dave also suggested a Chevy 2 pan with the front sump. I have to find out if I can simply buy a aftermarket Chevy 2 pan with the pickup and replace it on to my motor I am putting in. It’s a low miles 307 1971.
     
  18. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Notched in the front of the existing sump.?
     
  19. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,880

    6sally6
    Member

    Totally "married " to the Shivel-lay idea??!
    5.0 roller motors in the junk yard for under 200 bucks. Plenty of'em come with front sump pans. Could sell your 307 and it would be a wash...money-wise
    jus say'in
    6sally6
     
  20. Hombre
    Joined: Aug 22, 2008
    Posts: 1,075

    Hombre
    Member

    I just finished installing a 327 Chevy into my Ford with the same exact problem you are having. That damned center link!

    You have a few options. The chevy II pan did not work. Hurst used to make a dropped center link just for this swap, I tried to find one of these, maybe you will have better luck. if you want to clear the center link you can raise the engine, this will entail a lot--read that a lot--- of firewall and floor and tunnel work. It can be done though, as there is enough room under the hood for clearance.

    For me I modified the oil pan, and that is a pretty simple way to get the job done. It is a little tricky in that the center link moves up and back in it's travel. Not by a lot but it does move both ways. You also have to be careful with the oil pump, it is kinda in the way sorta. Careful measuring and getting the engine in the right spot is the key. To far back and you will hit the transmission tunnel and the firewall. You have a lot of room in the front of the engine though so you can move the engine forward some. however you cannot go too far as then the center link hits the flex plate when it moves back.

    My engine is now installed and I solved all of those problems. I would suggest you use a pan that you can mess with. I called this a sacrifice pan, it allowed me to trim and fuss with it until I got it right. I then moved on to a new pan for the finale cutting. This is harder to explain than it is to do, once you get your engine mocked up in place I think you will see that it is not so big of a deal.

    And for me a Ford engine in my Ford was NEVER an option, and I don't give a flying fart how easy they ( Ford Engines) are and how hard the Chevy may be. Changing things and putting different engines into cars that were not meant for them is what Hot Rodding is all about. Hell fire men it's Hot Rods it's not supposed to be easy...
     
    bobss396, low budget and 54vicky like this.
  21. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Yeah, seem to get a lot of the “put a ford in it” responses. So you say a Chevy 2 pan is not an option? Didn’t quite understand that part.
     
  22. Chevy in a Ford, you bet. This is my Avitar. Nothing done to the Firewall or floors. I know, it's a 51 not a 54 but same basic chassis. I may have done it the hard way but the outcome is the same fit in the Hole.
    Under the Hood 001.jpg
     
  23. Hombre
    Joined: Aug 22, 2008
    Posts: 1,075

    Hombre
    Member

    For me it wouldn't work. I tried an original Chevy II pan as well as the after market pans out there. The trouble is keeping the engine low enough so that you don't have to redo the trans tunnel, and the floor. The Chevy II pan just would not do that as the sump is just to deep and either hits the center link or the cross member.

    Right now with the engine in a have 1/2" of clearance between the turbo 350 and the transmission tunnel, and 3/4" clearance between the oil pan and the front cross member.

    Other than those area's that 327 Chevy looks lost in the big old engine room. Shouldn't be that way I guess but it's that damned center link. I mean man that could not have put that thing in a worse place.
     
    low budget likes this.
  24. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Hombre, did you have to alter the pick up or tube when you customized your pan? Some folks are saying drop the center link an inch and the problem is solved..I guess I need to get the old straight 6 out and go from there...it’s just as soon as I started looking under the hood and measuring, I immediately noticed the problem....I don’t mind doing some fab work on the pan, it’s what I do for a living...but messing with the pick up worries me as I fear an oiling problem if the pick up is not in the correct spot......thanks everyone for the advice, at least I know there are options for a Chevy power plant...
     
  25. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Pist, did you alter your pan?
     
  26. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

  27. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Picture of the problem child. Not sure if it posted.
     
  28. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

  29. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 2,533

    evintho
    Member

    Very nice ride! I have '54 Customline waiting in the wings (next project - Ford in Ford).
    Please post your location.
     
    Jeff Bohmann likes this.
  30. Jeff Bohmann
    Joined: Jan 21, 2019
    Posts: 152

    Jeff Bohmann
    Member

    Not sure if this one posted either. I’m new to this so maybe someone can let me know if the pics are showing up. I found this picture on an old forum and may be my answer. It looks a little low for me, especially when you drop the front end, but it looks like it could be tucked up a little higher. I may go this route. I am Weill the options before chopping up my pan and or firewall....but y’all gave me many good ideas....we will have to see what works out the best.
     

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