Hot Rods Model A body on ‘32 chassis WITH FENDERS- Help!

That's cool, I only mentioned the vette style oil fill/pcv in case a guy wanted to use the "vette" valve covers without putting holes in them. The M/T valve covers with fit your era build too.

 

Here some to consider
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...staggered-bolt-pattern-3-sets-7-fins.1140279/

Phil

 

A 57 283 would take straight bolt pattern, right? He'd need adapters for those staggered bolt pattern covers.

 

Yea, that was a brain fart

Sent from my SM-G900P using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Staggered bolt pattern was used until 59? All he needs to do is look at his current covers to see what is needed.

Phil

 

well - this

Thanks Phil - seems pretty pricey, doesnt it?

 

I like those...

 

Fresh rebuilt 327 would oil foul a set of plugs in less than 100 miles. Put a vacuum gauge on the fill tube and it killed the engine. For sure a WTF moment. Old stock racer said remove the pcv stuff and block that off. Never oil fouled another plug. Ran the car for years like that. Just put a sock over the vented oil vent cap. You don't have to run a pcv as long as the engine is vented in someway but it's cleaner to have one.

 

The old Cragar steering wheel polished up pretty well, but the original windshield frame is not looking good. Heavily pitted. Advice: have it re-chromed, buy a new one, or live with it?



Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

if it gets rechromed, remember every time you make something look perfect, the parts that looked ok, before, will look shabby...........it is a fine line. uniformity is the goal, doing it cost effectively is the trick.

 

Personally I'd just polish and clean everything you have, chrome, upholstery, etc. Do the mechanical rebuild and paint the body for now. You can always unbolt and replate parts later.

 

My wife tells me, don't go cheap and she is usually right.

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

What Alchemy said.

 

OK - I'll polish it up as best I can, but I better not hear any of you refer to my car as a 'Rat Rod'!

 

Since you are working on the windshield frame, may I suggest you dig out your hacksaw?

Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I'm assuming you mean I should chop it. I was considering chopping it slightly and leaning it back a little. There will be some that will say leave it stock. we'll see...

 

My T windshield was chopped when I got it. When I got to the point of fitting it on the car It just didn't look right to me. I ended up chopping it just about 1 more inch. It was a lot of work for something that most people wouldn't even notice but to me it made it just right. Make yourself happy.

 

I don't think there's much chance of that.

 

I only read the first few pages of this thread so I do not know what has been done to it or what the plans are for it, It was very hard to read any further after seeing it with the 20" rubberband tires on it. But all I know to say is WOW! this roadster brings back so many memories for me on How we used to build them. Those so called "Rally wheels" as the OP called them were very popular back in the late 60's early 70's The Chrome steel slot mags are still one of my favorite. And I had them on my 32 as well. I have to say There is No way in this entire world I would have taken that car apart! and if I did it would only be to repair something broken. True 60's and 70's built Street rods don't show up like this very often anymore. At this point it can never be as pure and as Cool as it is in this Pic. Goodluck with it and I hope it turns out the way you want it to.

 

Yes-I regret it now, but it will go back together just fine and be the same car only better.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Here is another '32 K member for sale, just an FYI:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-ford-original-k-member-price-reduced-to-600.1128268/


Phil

 

Thanks Prather-we went in a different direction with the center cross member. The car has some home-built square tubing cross members from the ‘50s/‘60s build, so we tried to match this style with the center cross member. I’ll pass on some photos this week.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Some updates - Will, the builder, has been busy stiffening the frame with a tubular steel cross member...

 

got the rear axle back from axle shop (gears were in bad shape) - all new gears and added a 'posi-track' unit...

 

Looks like you got to a major turning point. It's all forward now eh?

 

Great to see it moving forward, the work he is doing looks good!

 

Yes - we should have a rolling chassis soon. Work on the body is going well. Million little decisions to make, though.

 

the square tubing on new x-member matches what the original work on chassis looked like. Will said this stiffened up the frame significanlty after he welded it in.

 

I think that will significantly stiffen the frame and you will enjoy a much quieter and easier to drive car. What was the final decision on the rear bars?

 

I’ve recommended that he move the rear bars inward towards center line based on some observations here. I think he’s on board. Still looking at it.


Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app