Finally after close a a decade I have a bonafide rolling chassis once again... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
A few other shots 20190405/9893630f81ca144c91f9b68c216fe196.jpg[/IMG]-cdn.com/20190405/50843bbc8a94ba5e9666c89e1a3e9e96.jpg[/IMG]
I would be careful with the rear radius arms, i have seen then them wrap up and fail. Especially without running a torque tube. I would at putting more bracing in them just in case you get a little aggressive driving .
Yes Sir, Thank you for the comment. I’m planning to do a whole lot of bracing on pretty much the whole frame and every gizzard and gut... fish plates, angle bracing, monocoque aluminum roll cage/body... this was just a quick celebratory moment that I can still do this with all that’s going on right now!! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Setting up the panhard Need to cut old tacks... Will weld a bracket on the axle housing. Cutting off the old tacks Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
smoothing out the brackets Dressing the frame for a good welding result Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Mocking up the angles so there is no potential binding... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Panhard bits and pieces End was coped... Rough mark Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Bolted on the bracket Axle housing bracket Done for tonight. Need to massage the bracket a little then tack it in. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes, as level as possible, and as long as possible. The angle you have it at now is going to create quite a bind when the rear spring compresses.
Sir, Do you mean horizontally parallel in regards to being even with the axle tube? If so should I lengthen the axle tube bracket or drop the frame bracket. The way it sits now the rear diff makes it difficult to overcome that structure. Should I bend my panhard bar? Any advice is appreciated... Whisky Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Sir, When you state as long as possible should I extend the threads on the bar? Please see above post and feel free to comment also... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The pivot points on both ends should be close to level so that when the suspension moves it doesn't try to force the rear end to move in relation to the frame and body! A bent panhard bar will not achieve this.
I suggest move the frame bracket out and lengthen it .lengthen the axle bracket and move it farther out until the panhard bar runs parallel to the axle and clears the spring mount as well, when the axle moves
You might try to find the build thread that @Tim_with_a_T did on his car, he had similar issues with his panhard mounting. Here it is: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/the-belly-button-bucket-build-thread.1000590/
Started looking at your build when you were polishing the intake and thought it was rather boring, but then looked from the beginning where you started with a T tudor and was hooked. My suggestion is look up MacroMachines Homemade IndyCar on Youtube. The latest episode has him finishing up the wood mockup for the body on his boatail car. Might help give you ideas.
Boy... after watching that video my panhard set up was way wrong... thanks guys for the help and links! I now need to find a sagitta calculator! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That is an early attempt Tim tried and it was reccomended he do something different. You might want to go back through his build thread and find the final version as it turned out real neat.
The Jalopy Journal
