Technical 392 Hemi block with crack OK to use?

Would it help if I got a cap like this?

 

We had one at the fab shop I worked at and used it to overlay bearing surfaces on shafts. The shafts then went to the machine shop to be turned down to the original size. We had different powders for different metals.
Same basic concept used to repair pot metal.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...1D4A8515EFEBF639CBDA1D4A8515EFEBF&FORM=VDQVAP

 

This may work as an acceptable repair? Grind off the corner with a die grinder to remove the crack. Confirm the crack(s) are cleared with mag particle. Place a piece of copper in the hole to retain the hole during welding then build the corner up with TIG using an alloy rod that works with cast. Then machine the corner to restore the shape.

 

Garlits says RUN IT !!!!!

 

Find a good shop that can weld it as-is where-is. A bronze repair for the crack is acceptable to keep it in place.
Yes, there is a sleeve that fits in the hole...it is a hollow dowel to align the main cap and must fit when the welding is finished.

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Are you being serious?

 

Very common area for breakage. attempting to weld would only open up a bigger can of worms. That edge is soo thin that it will blow out as soon as the arc hits it and being 65yr old cast iron makes it worse. Knock the piece off, install the bearing shell an get on with your life

 

Thanks dreracecar!

 

I think that Dreracecar is right on.

Something to think about is where the stress is when the engine is under high load. It's mostly pushing down on the crank and thence to the bearing caps, very little upwards towards the block bearing supports.

 

I flipped the picture so you can better see the corner of the block with the crack.

 

I'd knock the corner off and smooth all the edges and align hone it. It is not a high load area. The bearing crush will keep the bearing from spinning. The parting line is always bigger in diameter then the verticle diameter anyways.

 

I gotta get me one of those!

Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I agree with you and all others who have said this. Basically a no-load area, bearing is eccentric(thinner) at the parting line and it won't hurt a thing.
I would however disagree with the automatic need to align hone it just because you take that piece out....unless there is some other main line problem that indicates the need for the align hone just knocking that piece off there doesn't make it mandatory.
Get the piece out, torque up the main cap, and check it for distortion with the correct gauges. If no big distortion enough to warrant align honing it, why waste the time and $$$ doing it??

 

Ericnova72, I agree with you. The only reason is I'm running main studs.

dreracecar & Retro 5.0, good advice that's exactly what we did. The piece that came off was not that big compared to the rest of the bearing load area.

Thanks to everyone for their input.