Technical Is there suppose to be anything in here?

There seems to be a slight gap between the wishbone yolk and the axle even though the perch is tightened up all the way.
Is there suppose to be shims in there?


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looks like you've got a 32-36 axle with a 37-41 wishbone

 

Yes if axle perch is 2" and bones are 2 1/4"...shims or spacer I believe is what will be required.

 

I believe there is supposed to an axel bearing on one side and a spacer on the other for that axel/radius rod arrangement. Bill

 

Speedway Part # 91635003

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/2-Inch-Axle-Boss-to-2-1-4-Inch-Bracket-Spacers,31781.html

 

no bearing

 

I’m not seeing the 1/4” gap some of you guys are, it looks more like the gaps can be measured with feeler gauges. I wonder if the small gap might be the result of someone using an 80 grit disc when cleaning up a corroded axle.
I would shim it but the problem may be finding thin shims that will be tough enough.

 

From what I see in the pictures that doesn't look like anywhere close to a 1/4" gap. I would just snug the perch and load the assembly one way or the other to put the gap all on the top or the bottom and then start shoving feeler gauges in the gap to see what I needed.

Fordors types faster than me, which ain't saying much.

 

Maybe valve spring shims?

 

Just tap a standard old sae bolt washer in there, bet it would fit fine. And it's a non wear spot so the cheap .06 cent washer would last forever.....

 

Are those parts made of Chinesium? Because the fit is awful...

 

It’s a pretty small gap, maybe half the thickness of a dime.


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Also they are both new speedway parts axle, perches and wishbones.


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Take the wishbone back off, whack the yoke with a sledgehammer to close it up a bit, put it back on.

Don't know if that would actually work or not, but would be the old time broke shadetree remedy!

 

There should be Zero Gap and a very snug fit when being put together. How you get there is up to you but I,m not one to advise a Hammer fit. Off shore parts are only close so some home spun corrections are quit normal.

 

I would take it all apart and ensure the physical dimensions are all correct. Something isn’t right if you’ve got a gap like that.

If you’re gonna put a band aid on that setup I’d take a bit of material off something so you can use a spacer like when you use an early axle with the later wishbone.

 

If it’s a close fit I’ll heat the yolk up with a rosebud and crank it down, use anti seize on the perch threads and nut though , if it’s a sizeable gap I’ve cut yolk and welded before

 

XtechX; You should know that when Henry made his stuff both the top and bottom surface of the Axle boss was machined flat as was the inside mating surfaces of the yokes on the bones. These surfaces were exact matching surfaces to each other and a Zero gap fit. The perch bolt as well as nut was a tapper fit into a tapper seat on the bones. This was to make a joint with Zero movement. If you don't have pretty dang close to that when done you will soon have issues once you start driving the Car. Most importantly those surfaces need to be square to each other to achieve good clamp force when you tighten everything up.

 

No cutting or welding on those, I think they are cast ductile iron.