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1952-59 Ford Just got my new Ball joints from Rare Parts

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Rockabillykat666, Oct 17, 2019.

  1. 40cpe
    Joined: Oct 28, 2010
    Posts: 379

    40cpe
    Member
    from Star, MS

    China is the next logical step in the progression.
     
  2. I'm going to order the $25 ebay one and compare. Probably the exact same.
     
  3. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    They would be RARE if made in the USA.
     
    JeffB2 and 54vicky like this.
  4. 56FORD390
    Joined: May 11, 2015
    Posts: 770

    56FORD390
    Member

    don't know if any of these parts, regardless who we get them from, are made here. all overseas sourcing. all the front end parts for my 56 came from china.
     
  5. fordsbyjay
    Joined: Nov 4, 2009
    Posts: 755

    fordsbyjay
    Member
    from Lafayette

    Taiwan and China are two different places. A lot of good stuff comes from Taiwan.
     
    Rui likes this.
  6. Paul2748
    Joined: Jan 8, 2003
    Posts: 2,442

    Paul2748
    Member

    I'd rather have a Taiwan part than a China part
     
    Rui and danman55 like this.
  7. Texas57
    Joined: Oct 21, 2012
    Posts: 3,739

    Texas57
    Member

    I'm****uming the ones you got were not from the diamond series? 150ish each. I was told by them over the phone that the Diamond Series were made here in there shop.
     
  8. Texas57 - yes it said Diamond Series on the item description on the website. though it was $65.00. Probably because that style ball joint was used up to the 1980's on Checker Cabs
     
    JeffB2 likes this.
  9. Bleach
    Joined: Apr 19, 2011
    Posts: 31,888

    Bleach
    Member

    I'd only buy NOS for my 56. OTH, I bought MOOG parts for my daily driver and they were all made in USA.
     
  10. Texas57
    Joined: Oct 21, 2012
    Posts: 3,739

    Texas57
    Member

    "website"...? Did you order them direct from Rare Parts, or maybe an ebay listing? The RP guy told me the Diamond series will either have a diamond or an RP, embossed or raised , on the parts IF they are the premium Diamond series.
    I'm just trying to get the details sorted before I order mine. What I've found so far is descriptions including "diamond series" wording on ebay listings are apparently bogus according to the RP guy.
    If that number on your package is in fact the Diamond series it'll make all the advertising of "made in USA' for the Diamond series worthless and very disappointing.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2019
  11. Texas57
    Joined: Oct 21, 2012
    Posts: 3,739

    Texas57
    Member

    Here's the response I just got from Rare Parts on-line chat:
    "We vend out some of our forgings... the Diamond Series are deemed made in USA regardless. The particular Taiwan vendor we have been doing business with for roughly 30 years. We have total control of all aspects of the manufacturing from blue prints to manufacturing to product and quality control. We deem the Diamond Series the same as if it was made in our own house. As stated, we have total control over all aspects manufacturing and parts are thoroughly inspected and quality controlled before sold. These parts have our limited lifetime warranty against defect in manufacturing and materials."
    The RP10100 you got is a diamond series part number, as is 10101 upper. their price is 65.
    The list on lowers for 57s is 135. o_O
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2019
  12. Texas57, yes i definitly ordered straight from Rareparts.com. I'm just wondering if the same factory in Taiwan is also selling the same ball joints to other venders such as those on Ebay. How many companys have the toolings to make these ball joints ya know? Rebranding is very common these days. I'm willing to take the challenge and order one of the ebay ones for $25. i think the lower ball joints are $13 on ebay. Not saying i'm going to put the ebay one of my car. But if it's exactly the same who knows? I'm kinda over trying to buy USA made parts for my car unless i find NOS. All the parts i buy for my daily drivers are made overseas's.
     
  13. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    You will probably be OK with the metal parts (probably should lube with each oil change) we do know that the imported rubber boot quality is junk from previous posts so you should get these on the way. https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/universal-dust-boots.asp
     
  14. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,706

    bobss396
    Member

    The boots on my*****py stiff-as-a-board hecho en India ball joints have almost all split. I have to take it apart to replace the boots and will be using the ES ones for sure. If the studs into the joints are still stiff after 11,000 miles, I will slap it back together and get some better ball joints. The uppers I can find Moog, the lowers will be go fish.
     
  15. In case you're in the market for Tie Rod ends, the rare parts brand is repackaged Moog. you can find them cheaper on Amazon or ebay. and i'm not trying to put down Rare Parts, i'm just a guy who is looking to save money on quality car parts. I realize they have to mark their stuff up in order to make a profit. And i have had nothing but good service from them. I'm just being frugal with my purchases. My wife taught me how to navigate and use coupons for the most savings when doing online shopping.
     
    JeffB2 likes this.
  16. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,706

    bobss396
    Member

    Thanks, I'm frugal too but sometimes you have to bite the bullet. So far my India tie rods are ok, the 4 castle nuts I threw away, only 2 matched and I used my OG ones. The boots have split, I have replaced 2 so far. I have used boots in my junk pail, 50 years old that are still usable. The one ball joint boot that was split I ran up to the parts store and got a Dorman one. I had the car apart to swap out the springs.
     
  17. I kind of started out that way too. The previous owner installed Rear Mustang springs in the front, the car sat so low that i could hardly get a jack under it. Plus they used the original shocks..There was no way my car would've been drivable on Pennsylvania roads. none of the suspension parts had any nuts on the bolts. I ended up tearing everything down, sandblasting, repainted, and installed new bushings everywhere. I have new shocks, new aerostar springs, new tie rods, ball joints. I just need time to get back under there and put everything back together. Hell, it should ride like a new car!
     
    Texas57, 56longroof and JeffB2 like this.
  18. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,706

    bobss396
    Member

    I have noticed that one of my lower a-arm rubber bushings is looking a little ragged, that would be a real PITA to change again. I know a guy that has some NOS parts for many cars, I'll call him when the time comes.

    I went the whole 9 on my car, down to the frame rails, stripped and painted the chassis from the trans cross member forward. Acid dipped everything else down to bare steel. New parts including a draglink kit, used the OG springs over less 1 coil, new stock type Monroes, 1.125" front sway bar. The steering box, have not had to touch it, steers very well for manual steering.
     
  19. my steering shaft is welded. Years ago i tried the Jeep power steering conversion that was all the rage. And it was an epic fail. I had a bunch of brackets made and sold quite a few to guys on here. Not sure if anyone ever had success. So i've been in the market for a steering box with shaft uncut, and preferably an automatic column. I installed a Lokar floor shifter years ago, and along the way after i first sold it, somebody really messed it up. I'm keeping the stock sway bar, just upgrading the bushings to ES brand. As far as my frame goes. i cleaned it up the best i could and i'm using Chassis Saver. seems like a really good product.
     

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