I’m in the process of chopping my model a sedan 4”. I’ve got the back area and the B pillars tacked very well and everything lines up very nicely except..... When I got to the front A pillar’s it appears as though my 1928 Model A windshield frame is an inch wider at the top than it is at the bottom and it appears the original header is still in place. When I bring the two pieces together it’s greater than a half inch difference so I think it’s more and then I can actually split and spread/compress. I’m tempted to drill the rivets out and and narrow the top header. Any thoughts. I think I have to for my doors to line up. Would it be better to spread the lower portion of the a pillar? The picture attached is of the front right corner with the front left lined up. When i split the difference it still seems to be a stretch as far as splitting and compressing the pieces like you do the rear windows. Thanks in advanced Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
If you narrow the header it will bring the top hinges inward. Then the hinge pins won't align. The pins need to all be straight in line.
Are the drivers and passengers side like that? Model A pillars are pretty damn close to 90 degrees, they should line back up pretty closely. I would measure the width of the top and bottom of the original windshield frame and compare the measurements with where the frame sits on the pillars. That should tell you which end needs to move. -Abone.
Done a few of these and like they said above the posts should come in pretty straight on the back and inside edges.
Let the doors tell you what to do. As mentioned above, think about the door glass. You can't have the front glass channel at a different angle than the back edge. The glass is flat and has to work in the door.
Find a uncut model A and take some measurements to see if something moved when you cut it apart. Some bracing with EMT conduit before cutting helps a lot.
We did add some bracing, maybe not Enough though. At this point, I have cut the lower door and hung the lower half’s To see how things are looking. It appears it was just built with a windshield taper. It was built on 8/13/1928 which was a Friday. Lol Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The photo shows total gap. I could split it but seems much still. I think I need to loosen or drill the header Rives and square things up. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
All right, so we got things squared. Had to loosen/ grind out the header Rivets. we got it all squared and to where the doors will hang and everything looks okay. Now, do you guys start at the front of the windshield frame or at the back of the windshield frame. I do plan on creating relief cuts to split and narrow. I’m thinking I need to line up the back of the a pillar and then cut and shrink/expand as needed what’s your thoughts? Thanks you guys Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
This cut, split, weld is exactly why I don't remove a section in the middle of the A post, or even the B post as far as that goes. I always remove the header from the top of the A post, remove desired amount and put the header back on at the new top of A post. No vertical split, weld and pray it looks good to worry about. Not to mention the change of angle for the windshield to try and fit to.
Line up the back and outside of the post. This will cause a step on the front edge. Make a small filler strip of metal to lay on top of the front of the top section. This should be made of a piece that is just thick enough to make up the difference in the step. Weld this piece completely around. On the inside lip, you will need to split the bottom and remove enough to allow the lip to be made flush with the top sections lip.
Alright! All the learning curves. So, I thought I was being careful and SLOW....the first rear corner turned out great! The second rear corner appear the have warped or expanded enough to were my Welded joint pulled in or bowed in slightly. What’s my best way to combat this error. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Without seeing what your trying to explain my advice might be a little different. Most often specially for guys Mig Welding on body panels. It's not the panel itself warps. It's the weld itself pulling the seam together and much worse if you have gaps. I'd advise grinding the weld fill off on both sides making it just go away then lightly on dolly plennish the weld seam itself. You will be shocked how the panel shape my return to where you started. The myth of panel warp from weld is just that unless you use mega heat and let it run away from ya. If you had good shape and fit to start with it's still there if you correct the weld seam.
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