COE 1941 Ford COE build

Valance under sleeper done and installed... when the cab is tilted, sleeper valance stays put since it's bolted to the running board. Cab valance tilts with cab.. Pretty happy with the results... Next I need to get back on the body work... talked to my guy about paint and he can spray it in October. He offered up August too, but obviously I won't be ready.. I debate if I'll be ready for October...

 

Added a little more ghetto two tone... thought I had the trucking company stripes on the sleeper all sanded out, but noticed yesterday that I was wrong... grrrrr...

Working on installing a Lokar shifter to replace my donor 1967 Dodge van dash mounted piece. While I love the A100 part, it's for a 3 speed not a 4 and I've also let go of my idea of no console for back seat access... So a console and floor shifter it is... I do feel compelled to write on the blingy piece "I did not buy this, I traded a cooler for it". It is a mount to the trans model that I've converted to work with a cable.

 

still a long way to go, but sure has come a long way from his first drive too!

 

blingy shifter in and working... I've removed the former engine cover and I'm trying my hand at building a center console.

 

cardboard mockup... I plan to have sliding "doors" to cover both the heater controls and the radio. I don't like the radio down that low especially since it will likely be a screen at some point in the future. I just don't have the real estate to flip the heater and radio with the big HVAC unit under the console.

 

Would you have room overhead for your radio? I plan to put all my air suspension valves and gauges up there on mine.

 

I think I might have the real estate for this, but I'd have concerns about the light from the unit. Right now I have my rear facing camera screen in that location above the rear view mirror and its pretty distracting at night. I usually shut it off when it's dark out. Hmmmm... maybe with a sliding door......

I wondered about some sort of plug-in, standalone monitor screen for an automotive digital receiver.. The spot where the heater controls are right now could accommodate a fairly large screen if the receiver were mounted elsewhere. I have no idea if car receivers have some port that can be used for an external touch screen. Crutchfield Chat didn't come up with any ideas other than using my phone by Bluetooth.

 

Are you using the glove box? If not that makes a great location for a stereo.

 

PVC side panels cut.. My first time doing this.. It seems pretty easy to work with...

 

cardboard template for top trimmed up...

 

Consider the following...

Make the framework from steel rod (1/4"). Cover it with stretched t-shirt material attached with hot glue. Brush over the material with fiberglass resin. It works good and you can get a lot of need shapes and soften the corners. However, you need to think about how you will upholster it.

 

I thought about a method pretty much like this, but wanted to try the PVC just for S&Gs.

 

Our robotics kids use pvc by the mile building their automated creations. A judicious heat gun will let you shape it. I don’t know the optimal temperature window for controlled plasticity as they’re usually in a huge hurry getting the bot built on schedule but I’m confident that with a little study it could be mastered more than we have it.
Looks good from here!

 

It bends pretty easy, the heat needed from a heat gun is minimal. I could still form it comfortably without gloves, but I wore my welding gloves anyway. I'll post a pic of the bends I made for the pieces that cover the HVAC solenoids that stick out each side...

 

On a completely different note... I decided to list Buford's flatbed on CL to see if I got any bites and to light HUGE fire under my**** to build the wrecker bed. Well.... It's supposedly gone on Sunday.... As Eli's great work shows, I've always had the exterior design pretty much set... Building the thing from aluminum not so much... Questions like structure, floor, inner walls or no inner walls remained.... Then I thought, what about a 2015+ Ford 8' bed donor... They are aluminum and can be had with damaged side panels for 8-900 bucks... The Reader's Digest version is cut off stock side panels and replace with my wrecker side panels... I know I'm making it sounds easier than it is and that I'd probably need help with the alum welding, but the dimensions are just about right and I avoid building the supporting structure and inner bed from scratch. I priced just the new alum crossmembers and they came to about 400 bucks alone.

Crazy??? Pitfalls??

 

PVC bent up... Shortly after I could smell it seemed about the right time to bend it.

And console with spare rear seat donated "leather" just flopped on it... The actual bent PVC is underneath it. Again, pretty easy to bend..

 

Wow, I just learned something new...thanks!

 

flatbed sold, fire lit under my****!

 

Tweaked the cardboard mock up to match the new FG rear fenders. They are car fenders w/o a flange (SURPRISE!!!) I can fix that... I mostly like them, but the wheel opening sure is different than the front... width it perfect...

 

The flow of the side really looks nice. Be aware of how you'll get the rear wheel off (ask me how I know), I like the fender shape too. Rerouting the exhaust? Looking sweet!

 

thanks for the tip on removing the tire... I did not think of that... I'm currently thinking the exhaust will come thru the side panel just a little further aft of where it is now...

 

hmmmmmm... I better check clearance with some weight in the bed too.....

 

Skier , when I put the quarters on mine , I found that I had to lift the bed to get my tire off . Even when I was using the 40 auto fenders .

 

How about opening up the wheel well a couple inches? The second photoshop shows the outline of the original wheel well. Maybe even use part of the front fender well dimensions to keep the lines similar.

 

Eli, you're the man!!! thanks!

 

Finally got a chance to work on your concept. Sorry, but I had to take down part of your fence so the bed wouldn't hit it.

 

that's incredible!!! thank you!

 

Thanks, I'm glad you like it. Have you considered extending the running boards back to the rear fender?
Eli

 

IF you extend the running boards, don't Make them one piece, but where the meet, angle both at that point,
so when looking at them, or photographing them IT APPEARS, they are one piece. The only way you can see they are NOT one piece is IF you are looking directly from side view.


I don't know if I am telling it correctly ? __//______ I can't make it look right, hope you get the idea?

 

I plan to extend the running boards to the rear fenders. That's why I repurposed the rounded rearmost piece of the stock running board as a "plug" for the rear of the ones there right now. I unbolt the "plug" and install the new section that will run to the rear fender...

You bring up and interesting point about one piece or two.. I planned to bolt the new rear piece to the existing front piece forming one long, continuous running board, but now I wonder about twisting action..... hmmm...