1935-1936 Ford pickup tech for the masses

Great thread! Just got a '36 1 1/2 ton and picked up a pickup box, a friend has a frame for me.

 

the louvers are different on the 36 I think.....the framing of them looks different than my 35 louvers...not an expert by any means.. thanks for clearing up the grill thickness issue...I guess I have a 36 because mine is deep...so I have a 36 grill and 35 hood sides and a 37 tailgate...a diverse truck for sure

 

The hood sides are different in that the louvers are even across the top in the 36 while the center louvers drop down in the middle for the emblem on the 35 .
Also on the 36, there's a bead roll around the outside of the louvers and that's not on the 35.

 

Yeah, the difference is pretty obvious to most folks just because of the emblem placement. Keep in mind that I am no expert. Even since this thread started I found that some of my info was inaccurate, so I try and edit it to make sure I don’t lead anyone astray.

Thanks guys.

 

Boy I really need a set of 35-37 truck doors.
Hit me up if you have a lead on some

 

Here is My Heap" Great Info on these pages

 

https://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/d/1937-ford-11-2-truck/6597826372.html

 

Wasn't 37 the first year of split windshield? Does that apply for heavy trucks too? Just curious.

 

Well my 36 has a Flat one piece windshield so I suspect your right.
The Wizzard

 

Yes. The big truck cabs are the same except for the gas tank under the seat where the seat riser normally is on the pickup. Split windshield in 37.

 

Hey Root, its great to see that your info here is still easy to find. Keep up the good work

 

Great info. I have a 36 truck with a 35 grill & hood.

 

I posted this in a few other areas on this forum but no replies. Maybe someone from this thread will know where these bracket mount? They are located on top of the rear bench. A picture would be great. Looks like some type of pin slides in?

 

This is all I can do for you, not starting on this 1935 cab for at least a year.

 

Looks like that bracket is attached to the seat, correct? The pics 1946caddy posted above are of cab supports running from the floor to the rear window (roughly) but don't attach to the seats.

My guess would be it's a hinge point for the seat. On my '35 there isn't a rolled edge like on yours, it just ends straight and goes into a pocket below the window, seen on the far right of Caddy's first image. Assuming Ford adjusted that in later years for a hinge?

My .02. I'll see about pics later today to illustrate.

 

I seen this when you posted it the first time, forgot to go look at my 36 for ya. I think what you have is a 40 seat back. As I remember it 35-6-7- had like a fold over that hooked in a Slot in the Cab cross brace. I just sold a 40 Truck to a friend with stock seat in it and as I remember it had the hinge on the seat back. Could be confused so will try to check it out for ya today.

 

Posting what I did above and then what I actually see is why I never swear to anything even if I did know it before. Getting old has it's draw backs, yes you know a lot of Stuff. Problem is it's all mixed up.
Your seat back frame may in fact be correct. The hinge goes to the Bottom. The strait leg goes into a Slot in the lower edge of the cross brace in the Cab. The hinge is fastened to a wood frame work that sits on top of the seat riser inside the flange and locked in place with the large pins on the front corners of riser. The bottom cushion sits on top of the wood frame held also by the dowels. Here's a couple photos of the Stock 36 parts. Take notice of the corners of the seat springs. The bottom corners are very squared off and the Top corners are much rounder.
If you have more questions just ask.

 

I'll post pics tonight.

 

These photos are of the wood and springs as they came out of my unmolested 36 Truck.

 

The piece you asked about is the upper half of the hinge. You can kinda see what is missing.
Maybe this will help. The whole in the rear brace looking up.



This is the piece that goes in the slot.



Below is a pic of the rear brace under the window.

 

here my 36 been in the works for a bit started as 1 1/2 ton coming along.
this guy stop by for visit

 

Very cool.

 

The seat bottom has a row of three holes on each side, front corner that fit on the two dowels at front corners of seat pan. That allows seat to be adjusted back and forth. That is the only seat adjustment. The back of the lower seat is hinged to the seat back at the bottom. The hinge is attached to the seat base made of 3/4” plywood. It has a upper brace that goes into the hole in the rib brace at back of cab. I do not know if there was anything in the brace hole, but I am putting a cover over upper seat brace to prevent any rattle.
My first 36 had a good proper seat with all pieces intact. The 35 I have now had a mess of misfit repair. I had to undo a lot of bad repair. I have gotten a new upper and lower seat spring set and they include the hinge and upper bracket. I will have to cut the beat base from good 3/4” plywood.

 

Does anyone have any ideas on how to reattach the cab roof bracing? I have 2 different cabs and in both of them the roof bracing is coming ‘unglued’/separated from the roof itself. Both have a single brace and I cannot find any type of weld indicating that they were spot welded or otherwise, neither do I want to weld them for fear of the weld pulling through at a future date. Any thoughts?

 

This doesn't help, but mine have been that way since the 70's. I'm not sure they were ever attached. I kinda wonder if they didn't have some sort of card board stuffed in between them to keep them from rattling from the factory.

 

Root,
In the formed channel section there is some sort of fiberous material and I have been wondering why they put that in the channel and then glued it. The part that I can feel feels like a rough cardboard rope. Your conclusion may be correct. The paint on the inside shows where they sit vs where they sat when painted but I guess that doesn’t indicate that they were ever attached. Any other ideas anybody?

 

Isn't that simply the bow to hold the headliner in place? Originally, the headliner was made from cardboard sections. I don't think it has any other structural purpose for the cab --- it's certainly not a roll bar!

Mine is close and follows the contour, but it has never been attached across the top. It's attached at the sides.

 

here is what im doing(38 chevy) pu cab.never payed any attention to the brace until I started insulating the cab and discovered the brace was loose from the roof skin.i carefully loosened the screws either side using liberal amounts of wd40.discovered the screws are brass?.removed the brace .underside revealed heavy surface rust on the brace and on the roof skin.couldnt have that so it turned into a big job.coated everything in POR15 and removed the dried up tar from the brace.at this stage the roof skin sounded like an empty biscuit tin.i used 2mm sound deadening on the roof skin then offered up the brace.it fitted fine.the plan is to bond the strip to the sound insulation using TIGERSEAL.i don't expect ill have any issues with it coming loose.im not using a roof liner . ill apply another layer of 2mm foil backed noise insulation followed by a 3mm layer of foam heat insulation.leaving the painted brace exposed and have the option of running wiring through it from side to side as may be needed for interior lighting .so far with 1/2mm layer of noise insulation on and the brace not stuck on yet the cab is 1000% better than before I started.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. I will probably take my brace off and clean it up a bit. That puts my mind at ease a bit.

Another question... does anyone have dimensions on the wood pieces for the bed? Thanks to CTSVL I picked up the cab wood drawings but I would like the bed pieces as well. I would take a hand drawing with dimensions if someone had something available. Thanks in advance.

 

I received an email from Zach Suhr the other day. He found these illustrations buried in the archives of the Ford Barn. Thanks to Don Rogers over at the Ford Barn for taking the time to assemble this info and thanks to Zach for forwarding it on. This thread keeps the learning going. I have always wondered about this, but couldn't prove anything.