Technical Rebel Wire Harness diagrams and wiring info

I checked power at the relay and am not getting any. the fuse is good. would it be a loose wire on the fuse block?

 

It's possible, but I wouldn't really think so. To get no power anywhere on the relay, it would almost have to be disconnected, or a really bad crimp. The way we do our's is: There's a solid brass bus bar that's a constant battery hot, that feeds one side of the fuse. Then coming off the other side of the fuse is a short wire that runs straight to the relay to feed and trigger it. So that all you need is a ground trigger from the horn button to close the contacts and send power out to the horn. I would think Painless is doing the same thing. That's the way most of them are. If you can pull the fuse panel, you should be able to trace that short wire from the horn fuse to the relay, and find what's going on. If you pull the panel and want to send pictures, I'll see what I can spot on it.
Thanks again,
Jeremy

 

My "transmission guy" suggested that I needed to break the hot lead to the transmission (700 R 4) to unlock the converter when I brake. He suggested using a brake light switch (common in 80 GM cars) that also does the disconnect for the cruise control. Well, I have floor pedals on the Stude and a pressure stop light switch but I think I have it figured out....but I'd like an expert opinion on my design.
I'll use a five pin relay--
Pin 85--ground
Pin 86--triggered by the stop light circuit
Pin 30-- 12 volts
Pin 87A--provides 12 volts to the transmission, probably put a switch in the circuit as well as a light to indicate that it is "locked".

Note...when/if I add cruise control could I used the power from 87A for the cruise also?

 

I don't have as much experience with the 700r4 lockup as I'd like, but how you've got it is how I've seen it done before. 30 would be power into the relay, and have continuity with 87a to power the lockup. When you hit the brake the contacts would switch in the relay to 87 and lose power to 87a. We used to build a kit with a pressure switch where it could only lockup when it's in 4th gear, and the pressure was up. We've about quit building them, just harder to get the switches and pressure we wanted.

For the cruise, I'd just have to see the unit and the wiring. I hate to say something would work without seeing the parts being used. Everything can have different needs. The 87a terminal would kill power to it when you hit the brake, but when you let off it would power back up off of 30. Which I would imagine that there would be a master off -on switch to kill power to 30 on the relay. Sounds good in theory, I just hate to say without looking at the whole picture.

 

Just to be clear, does anybody know if I remove the white exciter wire and the red alternator wire from the loom?


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Before I manage to burn my car to the ground I thought I,d ask for a bit of help with my flasher wiring. I want to use my brake lights as flashers so have wired them through one of the gizmos below. I,m not sure what to do with the red wire from the switch which is shown going to the brake light switch in the diagram. Also my Rebel wire flasher has 2 pins and the one shown in the flasher switch diagram has 3 pins. Built a few cars over the years but this is the first time wiring one and up until now has been pretty straight forward with the Rebel kit.

 

If you're using the turn signal switch shown and have dual element bulbs in your taillights you don't need the trailer gizmo. Wire it as shown on the turn signal switch instructions. The P terminal on the 3 pin flasher is for the indicator built into the turn signal switch. There are ways to make that indicator work with a 2 pin flasher by tying into the front turn wires using diodes or you can just add 2 indicators somewhere else again tied into the front wires (no diodes needed).

 

Thanks for the reply. I installed the trailer gizzmo because I was originally going to use a different switch . Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

 

You can still use the 10ga alternator wire for your charge wire from the B post on the regulator if you want to. The white alternator exciter wire can still be used for the indicator bulb in the dash if you have one. You'd run the white exciter wire from the fuse panel to one side of your indicator bulb, then come out of the other side of the bulb and use the rest of the wire to run to the A post of the regulator. Use 14ga wire for the Field wire and 12ga wire for the Armature wire. Let me know if you need anything else.

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

You can also tie together the Pilot and Load wires and put them both to the load terminal of a 2 pin flasher. Trouble with that is, since the indicator bulb is grounded in the switch it will glow when the key is on (if the flasher is wired with a keyed hot) , and flash like normal whenever you use the turn signals. If you could get to the indicator bulb and change it to a hot coming in, it would work like normal with a 2 pin flasher and not glow. Not really worth the effort to rewire the switch, but it's interesting I still wish they'd make the switches with 2 load wires ( the ones with the hazards built in) so they didn't all work off of 1 flasher

 

Rebel 43. Thanks for that.

 

Swapped LED bulbs into my ‘64 Olds 98 cluster. Will I need to splice an electronic dimmer into headlight switch to cluster circuit??






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I just recently saw a rheostat that could dim down LED's, on a Halloween prop site of all places, I was looking at some Wiper motor wiring and a potentiometer setup. You never know where you'll find useful information. Most of the LED's I've seen won't dim down with a regular headlight switch, just too sensitive I guess and the switch can't drop it far enough. It's either off or on, but I'm sure there are other switches out there for it. If you want I can find and send you the info I found, I didn't look at it closely since I was looking at the wiper wiring

 

Speedhut Gauges sells an electronic dimmer especially for LED's. I have one on my roadster which has failed. Fortunately, when it failed the lights stay on, not off.

John

 

Thanks fellas
Go ahead and send the other info
Would appreciate it
Definitely don’t want to waste my time with something that will break. Ultimately at this point, more concerned with good solid illumination, than dimming
Trying to wrap up this dashboard portion, of the project and move on.
Patiently awaiting a cool light panel to backlight my Ninety Eight plaque
Was able to fix broken map light with new contacts kit






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It's looking good man! Here's the link that I found. I'm sure there's a ton of other controllers, I just saw this when I was looking at a controller for a wiper motor. You'd be surprised where you find information. https://www.monsterguts.com/store/product.php?productid=17724&cat=250&page=1
I try to remember where I find some of this stuff, just in case

 

I used a MonsterGuts wiper motor in my latest project car - quality part.

 

@REBEL43 Thanks for all the info and taking the time to post on here. Because of this and all the good reviews on your harness kits, I've decided to go with the 9+3 kit for my project. I will be sending you an email with a couple questions and info about my 53 F100 before I order. Thanks again!

 

Well. Sent my questions to rebel instead.

 

Could you explain the role of the Dimmer Power wire? I believe it’s something to do with going from main to dipped beam. The Citroen headlight switch I am using does that mechanically within the switch. I also notice that in my 9-3 kit the dimmer power wire is not connected to anything, it’s just a length of wire that is not plugged into the fuse panel.

Can I just delete it and wire up my switch using the other wires?


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Sorry Abe, I haven't been able to check this thread for a while. Got a new computer to transfer my diagrams and pictures to and haven't done much more than turn it on...It's faster to go to the old one with all my stuff on it. Are you just wanting to know what to put on the terminals of the switch? The Battery terminal of the switch (and you'd only have to use one of them), the brown ACC wire would go on the ACC terminal of the switch, purple start wire would go on the SOL (solenoid) terminal of the switch, and the orange IGN and the pink Coil wires would go on the IGN terminal.

If you guys run into anything or If I don't answer pretty quick, send me an email at rebel43jb@comcast.net Sometimes I don't get the notifications from the forum for some reason, and others I'm running around between building kits and doing tech so I don't make it to check the forum. I don't want to leave anyone hanging with questions though.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

You're right, that blue dimmer power wire is just meant to run from the headlight switch to the dimmer (dip) switch. For your switch with it built in, just like the Speedway switches that have high and low beam built in, you can just not use the blue wire, and wire the high and low beams straight to the headlight switch. Let me know if you come up with anything else.

Thanks,
Jeremy

 

Don't know if you have found any cloth tape for wrapping yet, Was looking for similar when I wired my A coupe. Tape was available at US Home Depot/ Menards stores in North Dakota, but not available in Canada, plain old cloth electrical tape. Most people use vinyl now, but they still sold it. May be a source.

I ended up using black cloth tape intended for hockey stick blades. Was too wide but just laid out 3-4 ft strips and cut it in half with a strait edge and razor knife, rerolled on short piece of 3/8 tubing. That worked good as it was easy to work with under the dash. Don't know if hockey tape would be available in Fla. Gave a nice vintage look to the job, no wire ties or plastic loom.

 

Finally(last week)finished the Rebel Wiring job On Bill’s ‘32
Big thanks to Jeremy for all his assistance.
60’s GM tilt column, through us a curveball.
Otherwise went fairly well.
So glad to have all that spaghetti in the trash. Car was so unreliable
Props to Misfires Car Club Brother Chad, whom did most of the heavy lifting.
Excuse the half ass exhaust. On the short list of things to upgrade. Car was purchased about 13 years ago, from a VA backyard builder. Brookeville body ‘56 354 Hemi w/5 speed
JT

JT

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Really nice looking car! Glad I could help out.
Thanks again,
Jeremy

 

Big shout out to Rebel Wire and Jeremy. Thanks to work from home initiative my truck is back up. Picked her up from exhaust shop yesterday. Complete rewire using the 9+3 kit along with a few phone calls. In the 2 years I have had her this is first time with turn signals and a fuse box. Very straightforward and Rebel wire was available several times to clarify some questions. I highly recommend them for your next project.

 

Looks great! Glad I could help you get it going again! If you need anything just let me know.
Thanks,
Jeremy

 

Glad I found this feed! I am getting ready to rewire my 1955 Dodge C3 B8, running a period correct 241cid with 3spd, 6V positive ground, original generator and factory gauges inc. ammeter (trying to keep her as original as I can). I am looking at the Rebel 6V Modern Universal harness, seems to have enough circuits for my basic application.

Will this kit come with everything to wire up the ammeter and a generic add-on column mount turn signal? And I've read the ammeter horror stories-is there a good diagram included to make sure I get it wired up properly?

Thanks!

 

Any chance Rebel could send me a new fuse box label? Mine is kinda beat up!