^^ I'd be scared to take #22 down the strip at full speed. You definitely weathered that one. As for #27, someone in the "full size" discussion recently bemoaned all the '30s coupes that were led to their slaughter as circle track racers. Your model really captures that look.
Painting plastic has now become a major pain in the rear for me. When I got back into modeling I was working at a new car dealer and one of the body shop painters took on the job of doing my painting and he was very good at it. After a while I stopped building and really only recently started up again. I don't have an air brush and compressor, I also don't have a spot to build and set up a spray booth, so I depend on spray cans and a cardboard box when I want to whip something out. The thing is, I don't want to just whip something out, I want my models to be presentable and something kool to look at. If I left everything in primer I'd be golden but color, orange peel and crazing are making me crazy. I won't let a model car defeat me so I do what I can to rectify the situation. There are no kits that I want to leave unpainted, and if I run across a rebuildable beater at a garage sale it has to be painted. Can any of you fellows (or gals) that spray with cans offer any solid tips? I've stayed with regular everyday hardware department primers and paints mainly because of the costs, but they've been biting me on the butt too often. If I could afford (or justify) buying only classic AMT screw bottom kits I'd could leave the bodies alone, assembling them the way I did as a kid, but there's not a plastic model car in the world worth $100 and more just to fill my nostalgia jones. Right now I've got an older AMT '63 Galaxie kit that most likely won't get assembled because I'm not going to hassle with paint... plain white paint. Yeah, I guess I'm a quitter.
I built number 27 as a nod to my grandfather, he raced jalopies at a dirt track in Watts Flats, Ny in from 1956 to 1960 when the track closed down.
I feel your pain. I' am finding time to build models again and even with 42 years of professional painting experience the painting aspect of model building is a challenge. I'm going for perfection and i'm not there yet. I suggest relying on hardware store lacquer like Krylon for color only as sprayed and figure out which clear non lacquer is compatible for acceptable smoothness and gloss as sprayed. Different primer colors in thin coats may help achieving color with few thin coats. Try to then achieve the finished smoothness and gloss you want with non lacquer clear as sprayed. You may have to use an expensive clear on the less expensive colors. I could easily spray flawless high gloss smooth urethane enamel with my spray gun but all the seams and small details would be buried in clear even with a thin coat. I really don't want to get into a hand polishing routine but it might not be as troublesome as I imagine.
I agree that Krylon might best for you. It goes on great and usually requires very little rubbing out, and even the lacquer clearcoats will work on it. Downside is the lack of cool colors. Tamiya cans are also another great alternative. They spray 10 times better than Testors and Model Master sprays. Downside there is the cost of them.
John Worden...I've been trying my best with Krylon because of some of the colors available. My main problem is with the paint crazing on me. The first light coat of color over primer is no problem, after that all bets are off, anything can happen. No one on YouTube seems to be addressing the problems I'm having. You hit on the non-lacquer clear subject. That's my other main sticky point, find an enamel clear. Of course, if I can get a nice finish coat of enamel color down I wouldn't even bother with the clear. I appreciate your comments, thanks. NHRANUT...As mentioned above, I'm hip to Krylon and have gotten some good finishes, they're just not consistent. The colors Krylon offer work for me, so I'm good there. I wondered about Testors and Model Master, which you touched on. I haven't used them in quite some time and wondered about ease of application and any drawbacks. That's why I posted my questions. Someone's buying and using those products, they've been in business for a hell of a long time. Thanks for your thoughts and comments.
Testors and MM spray way too heavy, as has been said. Decanting and airbrushing is the way to go with them. The lacquers are a little better because they dry faster, but even with them the paint always ends up too heavy in places, and too thin in others. Not sure why you're having trouble with the second coat. The only thing I might suggest is letting the first coat dry a couple days, and then lightly wet sand the paint just enough to knock off the gloss before a second coat. And if you get a good finish, you don't have to clear coat it, IMHO. Those models you posted look pretty good to me.
^^ Thanks for your input. That's the info I was looking for. I'll admit, I get antsy and want to get the color down. I've got one in the works now that I shot silver as a base coat for a translucent color (Testors or Model Master) but I think I'll change direction. Also, I appreciate the complement. Mitch
quick85.... Describe your crazing in detail. What are the physical characteristics if it? I would say that a trouble free first coat rules out product compatibility issues. If you tend to spray heavy than an overnight dry of the first coat is a good idea. Some colors cover better than others with few coats. A short test spray will give you an idea of how well a color hides and a clue to how much will be required. Remember too that because lacquer dries so fast it can trap moisture and blush in humid conditions. Luck. John
John, simply put, the paint rises and bunches together. Never on the model as a whole, but in strips or sections, and it's never a case of spraying lacquer over enamel, that's what grabs me. I've tried to vary my spraying techniques...too light and it looks like the paint's too dry...too heavy and the runs appear. Since I know what I want the finished model to look like I try to take my time and not get heavy handed, I'll have to try harder. Again, thanks. You guys have given me things to consider (or reconsider).
I have to agree that the easiest way to get very good results are Tamiya spray cans. Still they have some disadvantages: 1. They are very expensive for such small cans (just enough to do 1 model). 2. They have an extremely strong chemical smell, so you need a spray booth or work in an area that is far away from where you live. 3. they offer only a limited choice of colours.
quick85.....One more comment. I feel that your first coat is heavy in those strips and sections but is not evident until the second coat goes on at which time the first reacts because solvents are still evaporating from the heavy areas. Patience is key.
As far as spraying Krylon goes, it dries VERY fast. Rather than spraying coats a day apart or more, you can spray the second coat within 10 minutes, and then maybe a 3rd coat another 10 minutes later and be done. That way it's basically all one coat. Don't worry too much about a heavy pass, just don't make 2 in a row.
Wow...finally hit it on a Sunday...some good looking stuff being done Thought I would post a few shots of the 59 Imperial build , I managed to get it lowered,dechromed and doing a little fin work , including removing the taillights then off come the top..and kind of following the magazine article that I posted earlier I managed to get it reattached with out to much of a problem, even the windshield and back glass layed back into place after a little file work , well they were until I just had to file a little more on the back one ....and it happened...so I'm letting that simmer a bit and have moved on to a taillight idea that fell into my thinking, I decided to put a taillight down into the bumper that would go full width of the insert in the bumper...so I started carving on a piece of red lexan and noticed how bright the edge that was going to be the leading edge of the light was getting just from the light it was grabbing from my desk lamp....well now the tailight is becoming a little bit more involved...Fiber optics intered the picture, so here's a prototype that I'm putting together....of course that will most likely lead to running optics to all the lights. And this was going to be a mostly box stock build... Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Have any of you guys tried any of this Auto-Air Colors water based non-toxic custom automotive paint on any models? A friend of mine has a cabinet full of this stuff, some pretty wild colors, lots of flakes, pearls, metallics and alot of them are small fine flakes and metallics that I think would be fine for scale on models. I haven't sprayed any of it yet, I'm considering trying the metallic gold on the Imperial...it says they can be sprayed using a airbrush, untill you get into the larger size flakes, and most of them can be sprayed straight from the bottle, no reduction. I was playing around with some today , just doing some sample blobs and mixing some around. Anyway I was just curious of anyone has used any of itbefore. Sent from my SM-T387V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I really appreciate the tips and knowledge you guys have shared about painting. I'm taking them all into account and paying attention. Now that winter is here it's time to get back to work. I have to say that I've wondered if messing with model specific paint was a better option but it doesn't necessarily seem so, according to you fellows, and I dig some of the Krylon colors. Thanks again.
I’m glad to hear others having trouble with testors spray paint, I thought it was just me. Expensive and doesn’t work well anymore. When I was building in the 80s I loved their spray paint, now they are horrible. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I like the 55. Several years ago I did a diecast model when I was thinking of building a full size build which eventually ended up being the 56 conversion I currently have.
Usually through a straw into a bottle. Testors nozzles are the hardest, but you can trim the straw to the shape of the nozzle to help contain it it into the straw.
This very basic friction toy made by Product Miniature Corporation (PMC) was based on their more detailed dealer promotional model. While the promo was molded in warp-prone acetate plastic, this car was molded in styrene. I recently received this one from eBay for $24.50 and as soon as it arrived the friction chassis went in the trash and I started doing the necessary surgery to fit a '59 Edsel chassis underneath it. A lot of material had to be ground away from the upper rear chassis to fit under the bed floor. After the chassis was installed, a stance adjustment was in order using my favorite rolling stock, '61-vintage AMT tires with wheels from a Revell '57 Ford (the chrome ones are by Little Motor Kar Co. and were borrowed from another car for this mockup.) The body needs a lot of moldline and flash cleanup in addition to fin-tip repair. While it's mocked-up here with an AMT '59 Ford windshield, I'll ultimately use a Revell '59 Skyliner piece, which is thinner and fits better. The virtue of all the 1/25 '59 Fords from Revell, AMT, PMC is their high degree of interchangeability, much like JoHan Mopar kits. I'm hoping working on this thing will bust me out of a slump! Auction pix below... The mockup. Ultimately the front will be one or two inches lower. This is where it stands now.... Got the stance where I wanted it... Worked more on the fin tip repair. Also notched in a piece to the rear quarter panel to fix a short shot there. And got the Skyliner bumper cleaned and prepped for plating. There was another short shot at the lower corner of the front fender, so I notched in piece from the Skyliner to fit there... Finally, hacked up an AMT '59 Galaxie interior to fit. Kinda thinking I'll want to do more custom work in here, maybe bucket seats and console from a '63 Galaxie...
Liz and Cosmo try out the seat and eagerly await the construction of their new Lincoln Futura. Meanwhile.......... They obsess over what to wear while riding in the new bubbletop. Color is the issue. They want to know what the HAMB suggests so post away. Liz has chosen fab loafers, checked capri pants and a sleeveless form fitting hip length top belted at the waist. Cosmo sports loafers, men's hose, cuffed slacks, a sport coat with sweater vest, shirt with button down collar and an ascot. Liz will most likely switch hair color to auburn for the occasion and Cosmo prefers gloss black hair. Of course they will visit a tanning salon before delivery day as a precaution. They are quite the couple. I built one of these when first issued and it has not survived well with key parts missing. I shopped Ebay recently and scored a reissue for $20 delivered.
Yes they do and I like their choices of a one off Lincoln Futura and an Outer Limits "T" Liz seems to enjoy the physical attention she is receiving from Cosmo. That rascaly rascal. I nominate Liz and Cosmo Honorary Hamb Hudlums. Did you heat Cosmos right arm to re position it?
The Jalopy Journal
