That makes enough since. After some creative wording I got a search that popped up quite a few threads about running aftermarket king bee and other style headlights on a stock headlight bar. the solution in pretty much every case was to open the slot up to be longer so you can adjust it all the way. as these are actually @porknbeaner head lights I’ve been using for mock up I’ll just leave whatever I end up doing til I have my actual lights in hand. Though I do plan on running basically this same light
Let’s see if these load in order. It’s been more difficult than normal posting/ navigating them on my phone lately used two zip ties each side and got the pedals to stay “up” A little out of order it would seem. Oh well. Cut some wood up to get the toe board mocked up and after sitting in the car with the seat where it felt comfortable with the steering wheel I put my feet where they felt about right and then set about mocking the pedals up with magnets this positioning is with the bottom of the “pedal box” level with bottom of the upper firewall. So my bracing if done like I’ve drawn will all be on the cowl/ lower half of things. Even though the seat will be scooted forward for her to drive it the relation of heel to pedal is still the same because the floor doesn’t move. because I have bigger feet I’m used to/ enjoy the pedal being lower in relation to the top of my foot. The gas pedal I like closer to my toes but for clutch/ brake I think I like this. I put one of her shoes next to mine and looking at where the pedal pad will in theory land on them it looks like the toe of her shoe should be close to level with the top of the pedal pad. Seems like a good compromise to suit two drivers. Plan A is a round rubber pedal pad. If it looks Like it would work better with a more rectangle shaped pedal pad I’m thinking more along the lines of some plate steel bent at an arch like stock T/A pedals or sorta like Wilwood pedals for race cars
Looks good and well thought out. I appreciate your doing this and telling and showing us how you are working it all out. I will be facing this process soon. I want my pedals coming from the bottom and hope to use much of the stock setup but expect some issues. With our engine choice we end up with exhaust, clutch linkage, steering, master cylinder, and possibly a motor mount in the same general area. I see how swinging pedals help some of that.
Ended up higher than I would have thought; what kind of magnets? Are you going to put normal master cylinders on the pedal assembly?
@RICH B yeah I’ve seen them mounted on either side of the firewall divide. I’d mocked it up both ways but with out an accurate-ish toe board and etc it was all just throwing darts. the magnets I think are some 2x3x1 rare earth magnets. I think they probably lived in a locomotive before they came here. masters, originally I was going to run two 46 ford masters. This set up has enough room side to side to do that. You just need to shrink one hole and drill two new little ones. however mocking it up the length of that master came into where the carb/ filter wants to live. So I began hunting around for the smallest master I could find with correct size bores that would look ok. I found these wilwood units that are available in a few different bore sizes, I think afco makes a similar one as well. I think I will remove the logo from the bodies and either paint them or take a needle scaler to them to hide where I removed the logo.
@Tim I just realized I have a set of 903-J headlights that do the same thing! I think it's exactly what @Never2old describes. I'm going to make sure my bar works for both that set of J's and a set of Percolators and I guess a set of KD chopper lights if I can ever find a decent pair (because I want small headlights on my coupe). Anyway, I'll be watching to see how you tackle it.
I’ve seen about an equal amount of people heating and bending the bar and opening the slots in the buckets. I think if all the different lights were about the same amount of did lean towards bending one headlight bar compared to altering 6 buckets. ive seen a few people make shims from round tubing. Basically cutting the tube in half length wise and then pie shaping it. You end up with an orange slice/ wedge shape if that helps you picture it. don’t think I’d bother with that. I’d assume it would be visible and in the amount of time it would take you could just bend the bar.
Have you checked the math to see if that short stroke Wilwood master has enough volume for your brakes and some reserve to accommodate shoe wear?
Not yet but I’ll look it up and compare to a stock one when I get the chance. Good idea. I’ve seen them run on several cars running 46-8 and f-1 brakes so I’m assuming for the moment that they should work
Ok so looks like if you are looking at volume in terms of bore/stroke they are a negligible amount different than a stock 46 master compared what lose info I’m finding. If anyone happens to have a solid measurement for stroke on a 46 master let me know. but for now looks like the wilwood is a teeny bit smaller bore with a teeny bit longer stroke. I think it probably balances out just fine. I saw Rex rods put the same masters on a 32 with the new Lincoln brakes not that long ago. Seems a comparable set up?
If Keith uses them... that would be enough proof for me. Sent from my SM-G977U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No confirmation on stock ford stroke but I know the push rod moved about 3/4 inch from off to “all the way down” in my friends 47 ford. The website lists the stroke of the wilwood unit at around 1.4 inches. Sounds like plenty? either way, I moved forward this morning with mocking the pedals up. After figuring that they would mount above the firewall seam I started thinking of ways to hold them in place with the cowl off to measure/ adjust. My first step was marking the center of the column and transferring that line to the lower firewall. Used a level to get it as accurate as I’m gonna get it with the car together. then I grabbed some 1.5x3/4 wood and drilled two holes in each and used some lag screws to attach them to the pedal bracket using the holes in the corners. sat it on the flange and was able to clamp the wood to the firewall super easy. The pedals are about a half inch further back than they will be because of it sitting on the flange not on the plane of the firewall but I’m more or less trying to figure out side to side at this point. to that point I marked the middle between both pedals on the pivot shaft, roughly 2 1/8 inches and then measuring marked that line to the bracket. The pedals are off set in the “box” so the center of the box that bolts to the firewall is not the center between the pedals. I lined that up with the line on the firewall roughly and then started to measure and see if the column fell between the pedals dead center or not. with it centered it looked like the clutch would be a little close to the cowl side with my fat feet so I nudged it over a 1/4 or so. Gonna give it a test sitting in the car to see if I need it over some or if centered is the way to go. I’m keeping in mine the further to the right my clutch, the further to the right my throttle will have to be. I’ve got an extra 46 linkage I plan on manipulating into the correct form for the car so I’m thinking I’ll mock that up as well before I make anything permanent. Trying not to take to many backwards steps going down the road
Sat in the car and tried things out used a 46 throttle for mock up pedal position. It’s a shame this isn’t a cross flow head it lands exactly in the right spot... on the other side of the engine lol hard to see but the throttle is right in the middle of my foot in that photo rough lay out. The brake pedal pad is just a cover so I zip tied it onto the arm and this all feels good to me. My next step will be to use cardboard to mock up a kick panel because right now I could move the pedals over to the left a smidge but I think I’m in danger of h I guess my foot inside the panel at that point. My plan right now is to have my foot clear the placement and then put a blister/ pocket like moal makes into the panel should it seem like I’m going to run the upholstery off he panel with my foot regardless of all this bench racing
That is called The Birth of The Soul the Hotrod Posesses... By the Way How'd Ya do in the 1/4 Mile? Vrroom Vrrooom...
You could run a throttle shaft through your valve cover to get to the other side. With some of those Ford spring and ball linkage ends It would come off in a jiffy. Really you may be able with some clever work to reverse the direction and get it on the right (left) side.
Also some quick mock up photos to show why I started hunting for the shorter master cylinders over just using the ford stuff the line where my hand is ^ where the fitting attach is 1: basicaly even with the carb body rearward edge. And 2: where the end of its length would actually be if it were mounted in the firewall correctly. In this photo it’s on the face of the pedal box here you can see side to side how the master and any air cleaner would come into conflict fairly quick just another photo to get the lay of the land so to speak. in correct position the bottom of the master is about 2 inches vertically from the top of the carb. I think you could maybe run a little helmet air cleaner but it’s to close for comfort and figured it would look really cluttered. So I decided to go with the shorter wilwood. I’ll get a measurement to compare lengths here later. Will probably make a cardboard box that is the same size as the master and tape it to the firewall for another look
Well shit on my 46 it got cut and flipped around to line up with the linkage on the sbc linkage. Im sure this won’t cause me to many head aches. I’ve got some ideas
You have a lot going on in that little space. Kind of what I'll be facing under the floorboards. But you'll be able to reach yours by lifting the hood.
Got the center of the tank cut out to fill for gauges. Was surprised to find how clean and smooth moving the fuel gauge guts are. I’ll have to pull it apart and save them... for no reason other than it’s neat junk I guess. Cut the straight cuts on the bottom with my cut off wheel, the curved with my skill saw, and the top center bits I used the cut off wheel again. I did have one section that was attached and I “metal fatigue” removed it. That means I bent it back and forth til it came off I took a hammer and dolly and got that section flat again after that. Drilled a chunk of conduit and bolted it to the holes that bolt to the cowl sides just Incase it would want to move when I cut it. It didn’t move or even want to. Just took the photo because I thought it was funny that the bar was actually going threw the car window. To fit in the drill press
Made my cardboard will wood master based on installed length, over all height and width measurements that were easy to find. the height is a guess because the pushrod enters the assembly pretty low. compared to the 46 ford master this unit with the fitting installed should be nearly 1.5-2 inches shorter than the ford with no fittings I’m thinking because the masters are spread apart a little wide that I’m going to use a banjo fitting on the master cylinders and have the hard lines dive back and meet each other in between the two before running down the firewall together. oh, and once I get the pedal box 1000% set before I make it permanent I’ll mock up the hood to make sure the clutch master won’t hit it. I mocked it up previously with a ford and it cleared but I’ve tried so many differently locations that I have no idea how it relates to the current location. Easy enough to try and find out
Walking around the car under led lights holding the paint sprayout up to the car. you can’t really see any color change with this lighting but you can see the light/dark tones a little. in natural light it looks more green/aqua marine when laid flat and more Washington blue when it’s vertical. I think I dig it.
Just a thought after reading where you’re concerned about air cleaner vs master cylinder fitment, how about something along these lines…or maybe something similar to the early chevy 6 cylinder offset oil bath air cleaners I have no doubt you will figure out a solution. Keep up the good work
That’s exactly where my mind went initially I’m sure if you scroll back enough pages you’ll find rambling about it lol.
Little stocking stuffer I had @Inked Monkey make I’ve learned that hotrod parts for an actual gift don’t go over so well haha. She dug it
That’s the backside of the coin. From what I gather it would have been sewn into a coat in the late 20’s/ early 30’s. It was a name brand of a coat that was 50% or more alpaca, with the remainder Ben g wool and mohair. Some versions had a little cotton. from what I read they feel similar to a cashmere coat. In the 30’s there was a law suit over the name because some thought it implied that the coat was an alpaca/ vicuna blend which it isn’t. He won the argument and got to keep his name. fun facts lol
Hey that is super neat didn’t know the coin had a back to it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The Jalopy Journal
