Anyone got pictures of the MC and hardline set up? Curious to see what others have done to plumb their brakes.
I am using 2 MCs and a special Wilwood pedal that adjusts the brake bias. No need for a brake booster as the pedal ratio is high. Lots of fab work required. Cost under $200. Sorry, can't seem to be able to post pics. Keep getting an error. Have used the upload*****on, cut and paste, resized in Photoshop....keep getting an error.
My understanding is a proportioning valve is used for disc/drum set ups. I’m keeping the drums all around and using the dual master cylinder recommended in my build thread. Is there any recommendations for a distraction block? I found one from JEGS that has 2 Inlets and 3 outlets with 3/8” fittings like I had originally in the car. Is this necessary or would any 5 port block do? I don’t see any benefit of having to adjust flow. Isnt the intended purpose to stop flow to the rear in hard braking and keep pressure to the front? Wouldn’t having a dual cylinder MC be enough in case the rear went out? Seems like overkill. Anyone shed some light?
They are not only for disc/drum. I've got disc/disc, but in the case of the proportioning valve I'm not sure it matters. Never heard of a "distraction" block, I****ume you meant proportioning. I'm not 100% sure one is needed in a drum/drum, but having one is definetly not going to cause a problem after it's adjusted, and they are not that expensive, so in an effort to get it right the first time, my vote would be to add it and avoid the possiblity of having to redo brake lines if later found to be needed. My disc/disc definetly needed it, and needed to be adjusted correctly. Ask me how I know. It's function is NOT to stop flow to the rear, but to adjust the flow so you do not have the rears locking up before the fronts on a hard braking. Another way to think of it........With the dual master, you now have two separate systems with no way to adjust the critical balance between front and back without the added proportioning valve. another way to think of it.......be safe! I believe residual valves are for disc/drum. That's another issue though, not really anything to do with the reasons for proportioning valve
If you are keeping a drum/drum system you do not need a prop valve when we had the original video in the "Sticky FAQ" you just need a 1967-68 Mustang dual master cylinder for drum brakes we recommended the Autozone M1485 which is a rebuilt unit just under $50 including the core charge. Why a rebuilt you ask ? Because those will usually be a Bendix or Raybestos USA casting which has been found to be better than new units from India or China. This shows you how to I.D. a Bendix unit: http://therammaninc.com/products/sh...sc-Master-Cylinder-Clone-Concours-Correct-396 so you may want to have the counter guy bring out a few to pick from. You also want to make sure the bore depth is the same as your old master as you will be using your original push rod. If you do a good system flush you can keep most of your original lines you will need a 20" long X 3/16" brake line with 3/8'' X 24 fittings and a 7/16" X 24 to 3/8" X24 adapter for the front port. The original master connects to a 3 way brass fitting down by the frame give the fittings a good dose of PB Blaster a few hours before unscrewing the old lines and use flare nut wrenches only so they won't strip. This shows on page 1 & 2 your port configuration. http://therammaninc.com/files/categories/Dual_Hydraulic_Brake_System.pdf You may want to install an additional 3 way adapter block to add the pressure switch a lot of guys do not do that because the Ford pressure switches are prone to failure and they will add a GM switch that works off the pedal by making a simple bracket I think Rui posted a good picture of his a while back I also did that.
definitely meant distribution block, but I’m sure it autocorrected on my phone. Thanks for the input, definitely gives me good insight.
Thank you. I do have the rebuilt master cylinder from the FAQ as well as everything for the self adjusters. If I remember correctly I don’t have the tee by the frame but I will have to double check. The original had the distribution block from a 55-57 thunderbird sitting just under the upper control arm If I remember correctly. It had one input and 3 outputs and the tee in the rear.
For the pressure switch: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/3-8-...NPT-Female-Center-Brass-Adapter-Tee,6467.html You can find the fittings you need at Ace Hardware I got all mine there. Since I used the GM switch off the pedal I eliminated the old three way fitting and used two of these to connect the lines.
The distribution block I used made things easy. I was able to use the rear brake line, took it off the brass block, a little creative bending and it went straight into the distribution block. I had to extend the line that went across the front cross member, make up short lines from the master to the distribution block.
Bob, is the Ford MC smaller than the GM Corvette type monster? Should have thought about it before ordering. Got the POL disc kit and that GM Corvette style MC which works fine on a full size like my Victoria but on the Bird, no room! It weighs 10 pounds and sits right on top of the exhaust manifold without the prop valve even attached to the bottom. They have a Ford style and uses the same prop just switches the lines to the Ford style where the rear res is for the front. I got a side mount bracket for the prop locally and will likely just get a local NAPA new Ford MC if smaller. Cant find any dimensions in Raybestos catalogue which NAPA use.
Anyone have any opinions on this? https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/630...J--NWa_EurU3Ee-SvwmjQMmsXBgZyNWAaAj8gEALw_wcB
56 T bird. The best master cylinder I find for early fords is a Raybestes MC 36440 It works really well on the baby birds. Especially if you can get the correct fitting nuts and don't have to use adapters. With the right bending tool you can make a real sharp bend right out of the master to save space. This master cylinder has 15/16 bore and works well with disc front , drum rear. Or drum and drum. Hope this helps.
I have two master cylinders, one was an aftermarket replacement for the 54 when I bought it, and the other was recommended from this site as a dual bowl rebuild for a mustang. I’m more looking for the distribution block/proportioning valve to finish these brakes. I have everything else. The one on the car looked like it was 4 port from a 55 thunderbird which was on the original MC.
That is the one I used in my car. It worked out well for me. The master is a Ford-style disc/drum from Speedway.
Thanks Dave, as always you're a great knowledge help for all of us on here. I was actually looking at that one. Hope you can have a more mobile Happy New Year!
I bought a complete kit from Wilwood (Summit) for a 1956 and added a Mustang pushrod kit at their suggestion. The 56 has 2 tees on the frame so only 2 lines at about 12" needed to be fabricated from the adjustable prop valve and one 3/16" "tee" plug bought for the rear tee. I liked their 4 piston calipers and the MC is 7/8" bore so I did not need a vacuum****ist. The Wilwood rep was really thorough over the phone needing the rear brake wheel cylinder size and brake pedal ratio before giving me any recommendation. Wilwood does have a smaller MC now. Their kit included a new pressure brake light switch but I used the one that was on the car. The shine in the fender well is reflection. I remover 2 screws and bent up the sheet metal to make the lines ez to do. Just bent it back when complete. I purchased a heat deflector from Prestige Thunderbirds in Sante Fe Springs Ca. so I didn't need make one. It's not on in the photo. I also made a fake 2 hole plate that you see above the MC; those nuts needed to be back on as it's part of the interstructure the 56 and just made it look complete. It's .060" aluminum painted black.
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