So I’m starting a build and was curious of input from the guys here. It’s going to be a custom late 50s early 60s style. I want it low as possible but still be able to drive it and as stated I want it to be as traditional as possible, so I really don’t want to bag it. Most everything I’ve built before has been 4x4 and most have been lifted so the low world is somewhat new to me. So tell me guys how low is too low and what’s that sweet spot where you still have the majority of functionality but still has that low look. More of a tail dragger look but again I’m going to try to stay away from the easy non traditional route of bags. It’s going to be a fat fender f1 on 41 car chassis, car front clip, custom bed. Below are some images to kinda get the height I like but let me know your opinions. Thanks in advance guys. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Too low is a subjective term. I used to drive a car that I could roll a pop can down the street with the front crossmember. But I wouldn’t do that nowadays.
The blue one must have bags because that is too low to be driveable, especially with more than the driver in the car. My Mercury is not super low (3 inches lowered), but when I drive with my wife and kids it sometimes scratches the ground (and we are a slim people). The second example (if it is a static drop) looks good and can be driven without too much hassle IMHO.
yes, need to have reasonable clearances under your ride - oil pans,etc - need to be able to turn wheels from lock to lock without tires rubbing fenders - need to learn how to "bob'n'weave" irregular road surfaces, going in and out of driveways, etc - pic of my Wife's PU, which was driven a lot with no bags
Jeff Myers built this '41 and it isn't bagged. Just run air shocks, if you need to you can raise it up for driving to the shows and adjusted it accordingly. Looking forward to the discussion.
My off topic hot rod HAD 3" clearance between the road and the long tube headers.....too low to be a DD. Maybe think about some sorta skid plate under the pan and tranny, that way you won't ruin something when hitting a man hole cover at 60+mph! 6sally6
That’s about the ride height I would like to achieve just wasn’t sure if it was plausible without bags and still be driveable. As far as turning by what I understand the 41 front has a slightly narrower track width vs the later fronts. I like the look of the 41 front but had thought about using a 46-48 front metal to maybe gain some inner fender space and do a custom grill with Desoto teeth or something of the nature. But back to the matter, engine side I’ll be running a y block and am going to have to custom make many parts so Probably just set the engine a little bit higher if need be. Also it’s going to be channeled a good bit so that will help with keeping members, pan, etc a little further off the ground. Driving characteristics are what concern me the most and getting used to being low. As stated I’ve owned almost exclusively 4x4s and am used to not worrying about theses things. But I’ll learn maybe the hard way. And I live in South Carolina and our roads are in most places pot holes and very bumpy. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes sir that has crossed my mind as well. This won’t be a dd but would like to drive it a good bit and not just keep it hid for nice summer weekends. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We used to set a pack of Luckys under the front bumper and if the bumper didn't touch it was not low enough. We also used to put castors on the rear bumper for getting in and out of driveways. LOL Too low is when you high center on a speed bump. So I am going to guess that what you want is minimum of 7" under the rockers. That is just a guess and has no scientific data accumulated.
a trad drop would be a dropped axle, reversed eye spring set up and possible front cross member modifications. non trad would be M2 or a clip https://droppedaxles.com/ http://www.joesspeedshop.com/joesproducts.htm these guys can help with the trad method
Plus keep scrub line in mind. A flat tire should only result in the rim of the flat tire touching the ground as the worst case scenario.
Yea its definitely not getting clipped or a mustang front. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
First I'd say that you need to know how hard core your state patrol (or what ever they are called in your state) is about scrub line. It isn't the issue it was here when I was getting stopped all the time and checked for scrub line infractions because the ricers are now lower than I was but with their huge hoops and low profiles they still pass. Second, actually being able to navigate the roads and driveways and driveway entrances you normally drive on. Getting hung up on a parking lot entrance ramp and having to have your wife and kids get out of the rig to get unstuck really isn't fun. Bountiful Utah isn't lowered car friendly by any stretch of the imagination though. It did happen at a store there. I'm not a fan of this laying frame nonsense with bags but plan to run the 48 with springs at static height and then have bags that will be used to maintain that height if I have something in the back or passengers or tow a trailer. My truck rode at just about the same height as Jalopy Joker's wife's truck when it was subframed. The nose may have been up slightly in this shot at Puyallup when we had the trailer hooked on the back. I beam with too many leaves removed in the avatar shot.
A useful answer can't be given without knowing what type of roads you plan on driving. I used to live in a town up north that had potholes that must have been considered historical sites because the road department wouldn't touch 'em. Where I live now, the roads are okay but some of the parking lot aprons I have to visit have angles so steep even my OT with stock suspension can't pull in without scraping the front overhang. The same is true at the gas station I use. I can enter at one apron but not the other one. I guess if your driveway dumps out onto an interstate, you could lay low for a long trip with no problems. I'm not a suspension guy but I suspect that the lower you go, the firmer the suspension travel and the harder the stops have to be to resist smacking the asphalt. As I've gotten older, I've gotten more immune to fads and more into function. The designer in me likes a little drop with a tailored look and no large gaps to the wheel well to tire clearance. But that's as far as I'll be influenced by what others do. Compromising ride and suspension is not in my playbook. I don't look down my big nose at other owners who go that way. That's their right to do and enjoy to the fullest whatever they wish. I can say I do like seeing all the different takes on the subject when there's a large group of vehicles at a car show. Edit: That thread title, though. That's like asking "Can I find Santa at the South Pole?"
Let the air out of the tires, nothing should be touching asphalt, go from there, if you don’t want bags
Speed bumps. They exist, and when you roll over them the car drops down a bit. I walked around at a kustom show once with a tape measure and the cars that looked "right" to me were all around 5-6 inches at the rocker panel. Anything lower looks great in photos but makes the car look heavy and/or broken up close in person. I have seen cars with only a couple inches of clearance. I have no idea how they drive anywhere without destroying their car? Maybe they go really slow all the time, never cross railroad tracks, and never go to the store, bank, or gas station?
As stated I live in South Carolina and pot holes and bad roads are the norm around here. That being said I know a lot of people around here that cruise in cars that sit on the ground. I want low but as stated functional enough I can cruise “most places” there are certain routes around I know I won’t take but that’s to be expected. It’s not going to be a dd so I’m not too concerned with certain places being a little inaccessible. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
4in. works fairly good if your roads are good,3in. will not clear speedbumps or some manhole covers humps in Miami Fla. If its a longer WB car=needs more room under.
I put lowered spindles on my old A and consistently hit the center crown in the paved road. Bought new springs and for about $500 total (lowered spindles and new springs) had it back up to the original ride height! Looking back, should have put the old spindles back on and sold the dropped spindles. This was in Fla and an area where the roads weren't too bad On my '36 Chev p/u , I had the ride height I liked and air shocks for when I pulled a trailer or load in the bed. Not a fan of in the weeds, drive-ability is where it's at for me
I had caster wheels (from a HD handtruck) on my Shoebox Ford. They helped more than you might imagine.
Another factor to consider is overhang. (Keeping the bumpers tucked tight can make a big difference when entering/exiting steep driveways! )
I set mine the lowest I could go and still get in and out of my driveway, didn’t want to deal with blocks of wood or some kind of ramps every time I dove the car. And problems on the street.
AirBagIt.com has air-shocks (I'm sure they aren't the only ones) that will raise or lower a total of 3" so you can set it up to have 3" minimum clearance and have the ability to raise it another 3", that should give you the look plus plenty of clearance for the road.
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