Customs Flat towing an automatic transmission

I need to get my '56 Olds from my shop to the painter, which is right about 8 miles away. The car is now fitted with a 700R4 auto trans and the driveshaft is in place. I've read that flat towing an automatic transmission will destroy the tranny. If I use my tow bar and pull the car that 8 mile trip, is that far enough to build up heat or whatever happens in the tranny to wipe it out?

 

It will mess it up, there will be no oil pumped through it. Put it on a trailer or roll back, cheaper than the transmission.

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Or pull the driveshaft and tow it.

 

Rollback... spend the $50 cash and sleep at night.

 

If it runs, start the engine, trans in Neutral, trans will be lubed as front pump is turning ....

but, I agree with above post, Rollback........simple safe and cost effective.

 

Has anyone tried using a tow dolly with the rear wheels on it setting backwards?
Just curious.

 

You better tie steering wheel dead straight. Look out When strap comes loose! Damn scary! Tow truck drivers used to carry short strap or rope which they looped through steering wheel and "trapped" by closing drivers door on it.

1 more car I promise, Rex Winter
Dry n windy Lubbock TX

 

A ratchet strap or two works really well.

 

Sounds sketchy

 

Yeah, I've done it. Just make sure the front wheels are locked in position. Go slow, 45-50 mph because it will be tail heavy.

I have flat towed a Mustang with a C4 30 miles before, didn't hurt it a bit.

 

I have done both, pulled the driveshaft on a lot of them and towed them.
I've also flat towed one (front wheel drive honda) 70 miles with the engine idling in neutral on a towbar.
I'd agree that hiring a roll back solves a lot of issues and they usually aren't that expensive of they can do it on their schedule. There are some guys with pickups and trailers around here who will haul from point A to point B for less yet.

 

x2

 

I use the 20 20 rule Less than 20 MPH and less than 20 miles.

 

Now, if you had just left the old dual range hydro in it, you'd have had a rear pump.

 

If I'm faced with a decision to pay $50 for a rollback or drop the driveshaft and tow, I'm dropping the driveshaft every time. If you do the rollback option, remember that there's gonna be another $50 charge to get it home after the painter is done.

Drop the driveshaft once, or pay the rollback twice? Your decision.

 

Hello,
A roll back truck is the safest and most reliable form of tow. The hook and chain trucks are still around in So Cal, But, most of the AAA Services have converted to the rollback. You are down to the one of the last things on your build. So, there shouldn't be a question about the quality of the final trip for a cool paint job. If time and money are going together, take out the driveshaft and use the hook. The last time we used a tow truck with a hook was in 2000. It was a 4 speed car and we only had to go one way, 7 miles downhill.

Jnaki
Recently, in our neck of the AAA towing services, the driver told us that the flat bed is accepted by the AAA as part of the membership including towing. He said he hasn't driven a hook truck in years. It is also nice to sit in the big rollback and see your own car secured down moving along with us.

A long time ago, after the local companies started using the roll back trucks, it originally cost a little more, but it was worth it. Most tows were the hook and chain. These days, it is part of the AAA TOWING services.

 

I'd think that there would be a problem with alignment. You would be going from a toe in situation to a toe out situation and that ought to get weird at speed.

 

Did a LOT of flat towing back in the day - well over a 300 miles a time or two.....always disconnected the drive shaft....

 

NY that much cheaper than Ca.? Heck, be 125.00 to go around the block here.

 

Oh..yeah, if concerned, pull the drive shaft.

 

I pulled the driveshaft and flat towed it with the tow bar. Tied the steering wheel but it still tried to dog trot the truck, and I stayed under 35mph the whole 8 mile trip. Not the most stable feeling thing in the world, but not the sketchiest either. And in the FWIW department, the flatbeds here get $85 for that same 8 mile trip...

 

Usually it is neither necessary nor desirable to tie off the steering wheel when towing with a tow bar. The car should track the towing vehicle with no issues, providing.......
The engine/trans are still in the car....the weight on the front ended is very helpful with tracking...... The front end alignment is at least in the ball park.....front tires have correct inflation.

Tieing off the steering guarantees the vehicle being towed will ‘fight’ the towing vehicle as the towed vehicle wants to go straight while the other is turning a corner......not desirable.

Ray

 

Or one of those anti-theft steering wheel lock things.

 

Okay, how are modern cars and trucks with automatics towed flat behind motor homes all the time? What is different about them?

 

I am assuming that it's not drivable. I would have had it driving before paint...

 

They have a device installed that freewheels the driveline like a locking hub would do on a 4x4. It bolts up at the rear of the transmission on a rwd vehicle, you put it in tow to pull it, just like putting a transmission or transfer case in neutral. Not sure how it works on fwd stuff, if it even does.

 

When we have trucks towed at work, the wrecker drivers pick them up from the rear to avoid pulling drivelines or axle shafts. The steering wheel is tied off with the seatbelt. Large trucks are towed all the time like this with no ill effects. The only time this won’t work is if the truck is loaded, or towing a road tractor with a trailer attached. Usually coach buses and motor homes are towed from the front with an axle shaft removed and a block off plate over the hub to keep the oil in.


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