1952-59 Ford Transmission Questions

I'm about to purchase everything to make this swap work. Finally. I'm just not completely sure about the TV corrector bracket I've been reading about. I have a progressive linkage on my 3x2 setup and I just want to make sure I get the correct part.

 

Looks to me like you could use the hole above the throttle shaft on that middle carb.****uming the linkage goes in the bottom hole and also****uming the distance is the same from the shaft (pivot point) to each hole. You want a one to one ratio of throttle motion to tv cable motion.
Beautiful machinery btw.

 

Going more with older technology I installed a 1962 medium case cruise-o-Matic in my 56 with a 292 y-Block. With the start in 1st (or I can start out in 2nd) I installed an 8.8 Ford rear end with 2.74 gears and could not be happier. That year cruiseOmatic has a vacuum modulator for shifting and the arm on the side of the trans is just for a kick down so I have it set at wide open throttle.
If doing it again I would use a C4 as some parts were a pain in the**** especially the speedometer. Good luck.

 

I put an AOD in my ‘53. Easy install. Just be sure to use the kit suggested by Jeff or you will be very unhappy. It is an easy modification. Love the AOD. Oh, don’t forge a trans cooler and Lokar linkage from the carb.

 

Do you guys have a recommendation on the transmission cooler?

 

I have this one mounted on the splash pan behind the grille https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...OsD4lYQXQuqBXyfLaSsEstxBDZ3otQgkaAg37EALw_wcB

 

IF you are planning on replacing the radiator, check to see if one is available for '55s with the built in cooler. That's what I'm running in my '57. A/C condenser and power steering fluid cooler (because I'm running a hydroboost) didn't leave much room for an independent******* cooler.

 

"Champion" brand radiators make a direct bolt-in, aluminum radiator for our cars. They also come with a built in trans cooler. They have a website and are on eBay.

 

Ok. I finally got the engine and transmission bolted back into my car last night. I'm running into an issue with the back of the transmission pan hitting the crossmember. I'm thinking it has something to do with the adapter for the Y-block setting the transmission back about two inches. Does anyone have info on installation with a Y-block to an AOD?

 

This picture shows an AOD in a 52-54 on a stock cross member the mounting holes have been re-drilled I wouldn't think that 2" would put the pan against the cross member. Worse case scenario might be replacing the stock cross member with a universal https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Spee...ular-Transmission-Crossmember-Mount,3279.html

 

This pictorial shows how they modified a stock cross member in a '57 T-bird with a Y-block & AOD http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/314.cfm it may give you some clues or a solution.

 

I'll take some photos and share with you guys what I end up having to do to make this thing work. More than likely going to try and modify the existing crossmember. I'll post some information about the driveshaft as well, I'm kinda worried now that it's going to require some modification beyond the new yoke.

 

Ok, I'll provide pictures of the crossmember when this vehicle runs again. Basically, I held the one side of the crossmember in place where it would be directly underneath the transmission mount. I let the other side hang below the frame rail, and scribed a mark where the rail contacted the crossmember. I then left room for tabs with the now excess metal. Cut it out and bent the tabs up, drilled new holes in the crossmember and frame. Then bolted it back in place, 12 hours later...

 

Now I've run into my next issue: The u joint for the AOD yoke has larger caps than the stock driveshaft. Does anyone have a part number for a new u joint? I'm going to contact the adapter company as well.

 

If you had the 3 1/2" yoke like the one used in a 1986 Crown Vic with an AOD it would use a MOOG 369 U-Joint the same part number as your 1955 front U-joint. When I swapped in my 302 & AOD I used a 1986 Crown Vic driveshaft and a rear conversion U-joint to bolt it up to the stock rear end. This should work in your case: https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-C-4-AOD-T5-27-SPLINES-TRANS-SLIP-YOKE-1310-SERIES-369-U-JOINT-2-3-8251X/282665423471?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=1&asc=20131003132420&meid=eb1d4fd3b82048a48977c916dac88d14&pid=100005&rk=4&rkt=12&mehot=pf&sd=283114792621&itm=282665423471&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 It looks like you got the larger 1330 yoke by mistake.

 

The u joint that I have in the front of the driveshaft is the Moog 507. 1" caps on both sides, 2.344" in length. The yoke I purchased from PTAC mics out at 1.0550.

 

Your local parts house should be able to come up with a joint that has the correct cap sizes and leg lengths. It's the variation in cap sizes that makes for soooo many joint variations/numbers. When I first put mine together, O'Reilly's could have ordered exactly what I needed, but I didn't want to wait 3 days so we got to where I needed by buying an additional ujoint and just swapping caps. The IDs where the needle bearings are are the same, (or at least far less variables) just the od's and styles creating so many more options. An off-road supply house may have more inventory in stock if you have one locally.

 

Is there an adapter or bracket to reuse my column shift with the AOD?

 

I did this on my 53 F100, not an original column but should work with an original column.

 

If you already have a Ford-O-Matic column https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/faq-sticky.897329/page-3 Post #73 If you have a stick column read this: http://1954ford.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2951

 

UJ505 is the NAPA part number to use the AOD Yoke from PTAC #1Y. 2.344 in length on both axis. 1" cap with inside snap rings on the driveshaft side and 1.063" caps with outside snap rings on the yoke side.