I've always run non detergent oil in my flathead because I wasn't running a filter. Now that I have one installed, I would like to switch to conventional oil. I've dropped the pan a couple times in the past and cleaned out all the sludge. My question is should I just jump in and switch out the oil? Or should i gradually switch it over? I know I'll be changing filters pretty frequently in the beginning.
Go for it as long as the pan is clean and you have looked in the valley with the manifold off and it is clean. Switching without all the crap removed is going to be trouble as all the years of sludge will be loosened up and flowing into the bearings etc.
@BJR I have probably about 1000 miles since I dropped the pan last. Think it would still be clean enough? I've had the intake off and cleaned. Pan has been dropped 2-3 times and cleaned out. I wouldn't think there would be much sludge left in it besides the stuff from the current miles.
I don't know where these recommendations about running non-detergent oil come from, but they are all bunk! "Inked Monkey", you are quite fortunate that you have such a short interval since you cleaned the pan and valley. DO IT!. To the rest of you out there : do not run non-detergent oil unless you have a 100 year old tractor! And probably not even then.
As has been mentioned , folks put detergent oil in sludged up motors , knocked the sludge loose , blew up the engine and it was the oils fault
Some times you get a carbon build up behind the rings that detergent oil can remove and cause oil use.
I used to work for an older guy 40 years ago that put straight 10W in his new Cadillac during the winter. That's what he did in his first car and everything sence, the fact that the oil light flickered on at idle didn't bother him a bit. I mean it worked in 1935.......
All the oil that drains into the pan goes through the filter before it goes through the bearings. So don't skimp on the filters. True, switching to a detergent oil can possibly loosen up some crud but who's to say those stalactites stacking up in the engine don't occasionally break loose anyway? All those codes, certifications and specs that have accumulated on the oil cans and jugs over the years mean something. Usually, it means they have been upgraded and are better than the previous generation. It's just my inexpert opinion but why not reap the benefit of an improved oil with better film strength and lubrication? I know it's not traditional but those oil lab services that analyze your spent oil can tell you a lot about the health of your engine and the lifeblood that maintains it.
If you are saying it is a Ford flathead then the oil does not go through the filter before going to the bearings. It is a bypass filter. That being said, I would switch to detergent oil and keep a watchful eye on things during the transistion period. I don't run a filter on my ford flathead but I run detergent oil (20/50 wt) and change it often. ie. less than 1000 miles. Oil is always very clean when removed and there is no sludge in the engine.
I've used BLACKSTONE LABS for oil analysis, you will learn a lot: https://www.blackstone-labs.com/newsletters.php?session-id=lftf3oqa4iqx51euvwawtxqp&timeout=20&bslauth=&urlbase=https://www.blackstone-labs.net/Bstone/(S(lftf3oqa4iqx51euvwawtxqp))/ Non-detergent oil (like racing oil) is high in zinc/phosphorous (an extreme pressure, anti-wear additive). ZDDP competes for real estate with detergent in the chemical make-up of oil. Consequently, modern high detergent oil is low in ZDDP. Depending on your valve spring pressures, you will want to choose your oil wisely. Oils change often without notice. Don't ask me how I know. For the record, there are modern oils with a happy mix of both. Here is an older article from Hemmings about this very subject... https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2012/10/18/tech-101-zinc-in-oil-and-its-effects-on-older-engines/ As you probably know, you have opened a
The other day I actually did open a can of worms...... and nothing happened....... they just laid there...... because they were dead......... real disappointing! I expected more.... really! But that’s how it goes sometimes! Bones
I would just switch and change my filter often for a while. If I was worried I may run some engine flush through it (get a can at The Zone I prefer Rislone but they are probably all the same) then switch after the flushing.
Ya can't keep them in the fridge, it's too cold. Ya gotta keep them warm by putting them in your mouth!
Install a frantz oil cleaner. I was skeptical and installed one. and it actually does what the manufacturer states. my 1940 diesel D4 was low on oil pressure. It has a round cover on the bottom of the oil pan like some flathead fords do. I pulled that and there was enough sludge that the oil screen was clogging. It also has a full flow filter without a bypass that if clogged can starve the bearings. There is adjuster on the oil pump relief valve. You adjust it to open at 30 PSI. yep 30 PSI. Cat dozers are a low oil pressure low RPM engine that will last forever if properly maintained. In the past I have ruined two engines by using detergent oil and turning loose sludge that caused a bearing failure. I also have changed oil and used Valvoline detergent oil. And several times got oil leaks and started smoking & burning oil. If what you have been doing is working Why fuck with it? If its not broke don't go fixing it.
I'm slowly switching to Castrol 20w50 as the ND30 leaks/burns out. Almost a quart in there now. I have an extra filter but might go ahead and order a few more.
I bought a 1 ton dually service truck one time (cheap at auction) that only had 50,000 miles on it (350 4-speed). I know for a fact it never got the oil changed. They ran 30w Delvac and just added a qt. every day. When I got it, I took the valve covers off and you could not see the bottom half of the springs. I thought I was in trouble! I closed it back up, and just ran it, as I was afraid it would clog up the filter or something if I went digging around. I used cheap Pennzoil at the time and started changing the oil and filter often. Right before draining the oil, I'd throw in a qt. of diesel fuel and let it idle for a 1/2 hour or so as a wash before draining it. You wouldn't believe the crap that came out! I also became an Amsoil dealer at that time and thought I'd see what it would do. In about 3-4 months I started putting Amsoil in it and doing a short drain on it. In a few months I needed to change the valve cover gaskets again and to my surprise, those heads were almost clean as a whistle. I couldn't believe it! However, the damage was already done. It began smoking on start up from the valve guides being worn, but it still used less oil than when I first got it. I ran it for about 5-6 years that way and eventually sold it cheap. The guy who bought it loved the truck and rebuild it.
Yeah,,,that was the old way some guys used to do it,,,I just didn’t want to bring it up. Being it has been . The procedure was to bring the engine up to temp,,,,better to drive it for a while. Good and hot,,,,,drain oil,,,,,only oil,,,,refill with diesel,,,4-5 qts ,,,start and let it idle for 10 or 15 minutes,,,just idle . Drain and change filter,,,refill with good oil . Your good . Might even do it twice to be sure,,,by the way,,,always watch your oil gauge while you are doing this ,,,just in case . Tommy
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