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1952-59 Ford Hood help- someone with 55-56

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by DIYGUY, Mar 1, 2020.

  1. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    56CD44B2-53D2-49A1-8DF0-901F8301C567.jpeg 72B6ACCE-8D1B-42CB-8D9E-C0B08A14FD1E.jpeg 6B9E4FE0-8AB6-404F-B576-110B6648B45F.jpeg Three braces under the hood. Front and middle have padding between skin and brace. Rear brace has none. No staples or staple holes like there never was anything there. About a 1/4 in gap. Is this normal?
     
  2. Joe Tx
    Joined: Jan 25, 2008
    Posts: 282

    Joe Tx
    Member

    Have the same problem. Think this causes my hood to flex a lot. Wonder if the hood needs replacing? Even considered filling the gap with "liquid nail" but don't think this is the way to go. Getting ready to paint the car. Would also like some help.
     
  3. 40cpe
    Joined: Oct 28, 2010
    Posts: 379

    40cpe
    Member
    from Star, MS

    My '55 has the same type filler above the rear brace as the front two have. It isn't nearly 1/4" though, more like .100 though I can't measure it. It doesn't appear to be compressed between the hood and brace as I can wiggle it slightly with a probe.
     
  4. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    This hood was pretty rough and the wise thing would have been replacement, but since they don’t make them anymore I decided to try to save it. I’ve got it pretty straight and to the point of those pads thickness could help or hurt the straightness. I have removed the old stuff and trying to decide between strips of rubber or the more modern expanding foam material used in modern cars.
    Just trying to figure out if my hood is out of shape in the rear (abnormal gap)
     
  5. Dave Covey
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 55

    Dave Covey
    Member

    Mine was the same way, roughly 1/4" gap. I put the hood in a mol***es/water mixture for a couple of weeks to remove the rust, afterwards I used a two part panel bond to "glue" the braces to the hood. Sure stiffened up the hood..
     
  6. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    Did you do this to only the rear brace or all?
    Did you do it with hood on car?
    Essentially you filled that 1/4 in gap?
     
  7. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 11,911

    guthriesmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I can try to look at mine this evening if there is still question on this. Mine hasn’t ever been messed with and is all still in original paint.
     
  8. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    That would be great, exactly the info needed. Also, hard to describe, but just how “wiggly” is your hood?
     
  9. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 11,911

    guthriesmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ok, I’ll check on it. My hood seems pretty stable and not too wiggly. But, I will report back after looking at it closer this evening.
     
  10. Joe Tx
    Joined: Jan 25, 2008
    Posts: 282

    Joe Tx
    Member

    Hey Dave, can you tell me what is the glue you used, and where I can get it? Also, did you do all the braces. Wonder if "liquid nail " would work? Thanks Joe
     
  11. Texas57
    Joined: Oct 21, 2012
    Posts: 3,741

    Texas57
    Member

    Mine's a '57, but basically the same ***embly method. Short of pulling the hood skin off the support bracing to lay in a new membrane/vibration dampner, there's not much you can do about the issue. All of the guys I've talked to about it, and myself, have basically ignored it with no ill effects. You do NOT want a glue or anything adhesive between the skin and support. The skin has to be able to expand and contract with temperature changes. If that were not the case, Ford and other manufacturers would have spot welded the skin to the support. Gluing it will cause your hood to develop waviness in short order.
     
    fordsbyjay likes this.
  12. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 11,911

    guthriesmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mine has insulation stapled to the front and rear braces to take up the gap, but not the rear closest to the windshield. And, it is fairly rigid other than it does twist some if lifting by just one corner.

    9C9F8679-B5CD-40FB-868F-7989BFBDF0D1.jpeg 04D4DAC3-497D-454C-B90E-FC42F1221E97.jpeg F493EA07-D6EE-491E-9DD3-373E85EC4B1E.jpeg
     
  13. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    Thanks for the reply! How big is the gap at the back?
     
  14. guthriesmith
    Joined: Aug 17, 2006
    Posts: 11,911

    guthriesmith
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Probably close to 1/4”.

    I just looked again since I am in the shop and it does appear right at 1/4” measuring it.
     
  15. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    Thanks! I guess mine is close to normal. I removed all the old padding and staples and will probably replace with rubber. I have the front brace out to do rust repairs so that one will be easy to replace. The middle might be tough but one way or another it will get replaced.
    I’ll update this thread when it gets back together. Still have to sandblast and epoxy prime first.
     
  16. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    OK, for those willing to go the extra mile, here’s what is under the rear cross brace. 2” wide and .175” thick. I ordered rubber strips for the middle and front which are 1/4” thick. I’ll have to order again for the rear. As you can see half of mine is gone.
    24 spot welds to drill and a pic of my drill bit which worked quite well.
    I think it would be possible to drill only the sides and then you would have enough wiggle room to access the pad.
    Included pics of hood showing where I cut the front off and replaced it and of course had to fix the inner structure as well. 1ADDBA3D-EE58-4433-99EA-9890B65A3159.jpeg F5FC99B1-0A93-4997-9B3A-3AE8CC249D2C.jpeg D0CA2522-9450-4861-BE94-9E406D163DB4.jpeg 2BB62D9A-5FB7-4E31-BC65-22080AF51FB0.jpeg E39C9E4A-CE4E-44E8-A2FD-1E75AED79D23.jpeg
     
    danman55 and Texas57 like this.
  17. danman55
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,011

    danman55
    Member

    Dedication - wow! Your attention to detail will lend itself to a very fine ride, my friend. Keep up the good work!
     
    DIYGUY likes this.
  18. DIYGUY
    Joined: Sep 8, 2015
    Posts: 883

    DIYGUY
    Member
    from West, TX

    Got my parts clean and in epoxy primer. Attached 3/16 thick rubber to rear brace and welded back onto hood. Did the flex test and very little if any improvement to rigidity of hood.
    Attached 1/4 thick rubber to front brace and welded back onto hood. Again not much improvement.
    Used 1/4 in thick rubber behind middle brace. MAJOR improvement! I had previously removed all the old padding and the rubber was quite tight to install. I used a spray soap for lubrication and slowly worked it in.
    I believe it is as good as Ford ever had it. My advice to anyone would be to concentrate on the middle brace. FD27C530-A7B4-4C4D-8858-7706632C89AE.jpeg D343B9C0-E5F2-4D54-B723-D820CFEF2A9C.jpeg 7DBF73D6-4829-4B43-802A-D2F6E1D393A9.jpeg 3CEBAD2D-048E-4759-8B36-F3CC572A21F3.jpeg
     
    56longroof and guthriesmith like this.
  19. Dave Covey
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 55

    Dave Covey
    Member

    Sorry I just seen this.. Some reason it didn't send an email to me..
    I bonded all of them. Used a panel bond, same thing body shops use to replace quarter panels.
    If you do this make sure the hood isn't twisted..

    Dave
     
  20. Dave Covey
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 55

    Dave Covey
    Member

    Man, Im sorry , I just ran across you asking me about this. For some reason I'm not getting notified when someone posts on this thread..

    I used a 3M product and I got it from Orielly's Part #8116 and it cost me 86.00. I would not use liquid nail as it is made for wood not metal. This stuff is what body shops use to replace quarter panel with instead of welding.

    DAve
     
  21. Dave Covey
    Joined: Feb 2, 2017
    Posts: 55

    Dave Covey
    Member

    Looks good. But a heck of a bunch of work..

    Dave
     
  22. buymeamerc
    Joined: Nov 19, 2012
    Posts: 447

    buymeamerc
    Member
    from s.c.,usa

    Braces need to be “flexible “ for vibration
    Using a stiff adhesive will eventually break free
    There is a flexible adhesive used on modern door skin to intrusion beam applications I’m going to use
    On my hood but not on the rear brace, it’s adjustable for figment/ alignment on mercury not sure if same on Ford hood , I will use rubber weatherstripping glueing it to the brace to allow for alignment
     

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