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Introducing my Fuel Coupe-styled Tudor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Just Gary, Sep 18, 2006.

  1. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 10,128

    jnaki

    upload_2019-7-9_3-2-14.png upload_2019-7-9_3-2-27.png
    Hello,

    What a cool looking build. It reminds me of one of the first sedans that we saw at Lions Dragstrip back in 1958-59. The names have changed over the years to 1960-61, but the Reath Automotive white sedan was a favorite with most of the spectators and racers back then.

    upload_2019-7-9_3-3-7.png
    Your sedan looks very similar.

    upload_2019-7-9_3-3-46.png
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/friday-art-show-6-28-19.1155292/#post-13141892

    In looking at your photos and all of the styling looks of the sedan, your new exhaust seems like it will make the smooth “rake” design of your modified sedan lines a little odd. The headers are not flowing with the lines of the sedan or frame, but sticking up like it is being borrowed from a 55 Chevy sedan front fender well and stuck on your sedan.

    Sorry, if I am stepping on some toes, but smooth headers that flow back parallel to the frame/chassis and then plumbed under for the quiet running with passengers seems more like your modified sedan. Even if you do not want to plumb them into some mufflers, then something like the late, Fred Castro’s smooth header pipes or the Scotty’s Muffler pipes both with baffles would satisfy the ‘Law.” (And smooth design)
    upload_2019-7-9_3-4-35.png upload_2019-7-9_3-4-45.png


    These smooth pipes parallel to your frame and body lines would keep the race car look, yet be good for the road trips.

    IMHO
    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-flathead-sbc-etc.484322/page-5#post-13056782

    Jnaki

    Symmetry is the key design element for your cool sedan.



     
  2. @jnaki, thanks for your constructive comments- they didn't fall on deaf ears.:)

    Still, I'm continuing with fender exits. In this case, fabrication simplicity trumped aesthetics.

    Prototype #2: 1/4" rods with 2.5" radius bends.
    20190704_123009_HDR(1)(1).jpg

    Summit's 1 5/8" OD primary tubing is back-ordered.:mad:

    Some small tasks while waiting.

    Homemade polished aluminum discs hide the wheel center caps' offensively modern logos.:cool:
    20190525_172457_HDR(1)(1).jpg

    Swap meet chrome pulleys:
    Top is a Chevy pulley on the SBC short pump. Bottom is a Chevy pulley cut to fit the Hemi balancer.
    20190608_165954_HDR(1).jpg

    To align them, I plagiarized @D-Russ' lower pulley aluminum spacer idea.
    Fan is a '55 Chevy heavy duty steel model.
    20190610_192141_HDR(1)(1).jpg

    Remember the Toyota minivan roof pieces?
    Roof ribs.JPG
    Now they're drilled, "weld-nuted" & bolted to the stock Ford roof insert flange.
    20190710_182324(1).jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2019
  3. Gary, I bought all my exhaust tubing (stainless) from this place:
    http://www.mandrelbends.com/

    .
     
  4. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,460

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Great job on that roof :)
     
  5. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,741

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    How tall are the Goodyear Blue Streeks ?
     
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  6. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,741

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Rears are huge 315-70-17(definitely not traditional, but 70 series sidewalls & highway treads make 'em look ok) on 17x9" ET-3 Classic 5s with max available backspacing (to make 'em look deep, like a front-engine dragster.

    How tall are the rear tires ?
     
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  7. Thanks, Dave. But Summit claims they'll ship out on Monday & arrive Wed. That gives me time to clean up the garage.:oops:
    Just under 34". I can measure them tonight for a precise answer.
     
  8. I believe they're about 31-32 inches tall.
     
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  9. Sorry for the delay. Life got in the way.

    Headers have 5/16" thick flanges, 3.5"x10" collectors and 16 ga, 1 5/8" primary tubes with 2.5" radius mandrel bends.
    #8 primary arcs around the oil filter while clearing the flange bolts. It took 3 tries to get it right.:confused:
    20190829_204928.jpg

    The rest were easier:
    20190831_121551.jpg
    20190914_183453(1).jpg

    Thanks to @Dino 64 who loaned his band saw & belt sander. They made far more precise joints than my chop-saw.

    Collectors are capped, but hidden outlets...
    20191006_180025_2.jpg

    ...lead to full-length 2.5" duals with O2 sensor bungs & 24" Thrush glass-packs.
    (growing up in NE Ohio, all the cool cars had Thrush stickers in the windows :cool:).

    If it's too loud, there's room to add an H-pipe later.
    20191230_152312_HDR_4.jpg

    Three parts-store hangers (temporarily tacked) on each side:
    20200208_180012_HDR_2.jpg

    Under-the-axle tips were inspired by the Chop Shop Coupe & Jersey Suede, but sneakier:
    CopShopCoupe 03.jpg
    jersey suede 01.jpg
    20200212_201523_HDR_2.jpg

    Then I went back and finished the more visible primary tubes.
    20200102_161009_HDR_3.jpg

    Thanks to @oj for talking me through stretching the primaries to match the ports with a ballpeen hammer and a 1 1/2" pipe inserted at an angle. Two split but were easily welded shut.
    20191229_175559.jpg
    20200118_100752_HDR_2.jpg

    Welding, grinding, dremmeling, and hand filing cleaned the flanges nicely.
    20200207_161450_2.jpg

    Finally, the collectors:
    20200129_160151_3.jpg
    20200129_193055_HDR_2.jpg
    20200212_190112_2.jpg

    Pipes are ~2.5" from the cowl and 1.5" from the frame.

    They're sanded & coated with Gibbs for now; but will get white ("just like the '60's, bro") ceramic coating (jet-hot, swain tech or?) later.
    20200212_193203_3.jpg
    20200212_194243_3.jpg

    I'm pretty happy now; but fabbing headers was the hardest thing I've done on this car. It was.......



    ...exhausting.;):rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2020
  10. lippy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2006
    Posts: 6,848

    lippy
    Member
    from Ks

    I'm digging this! :cool: Great work! Lippy
     
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  11. Really nice work Gary. The whole system looks great, you should be very proud.:)
     
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  12. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,460

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Go Gary go ! :):)
     
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  13. Nice work, love the headers!
     
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  14. Wow Gary, those headers turned out great! Very nice job!
     
  15. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,541

    oj
    Member

    Great Job! That was a huge effort, I salute!
     
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  16. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,324

    loudbang
    Member

    Great job I like that style going back into the exhaust system. That USED to be mandatory on NHRA Drag Cars back in the early 60's
     
  17. CAHotRodBoy
    Joined: Apr 22, 2005
    Posts: 460

    CAHotRodBoy
    Member

    Car is looking good! I love that style and will be building my '34 in a similar fashion. I sold my A sedan a few years ago and your car sure makes me regret it. Looking forward to seeing yours on the road.

    IMG_2868.JPG
     
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  18. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    The car and fab work are killer! Keep it up. I'm following along.
     
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  19. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,460

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    They’re huge for sure, Gary, you trying to tell us something ?;):rolleyes:
     
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  20. Really nice job on those headers man
     
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  21. Roothawg
    Joined: Mar 14, 2001
    Posts: 25,154

    Roothawg
    Member

    You are in the home stretch now.
     
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  22. Stock front seats are lowered in back using thinner Model A "feet cups":
    20200228_141745_HDR_2.jpg

    Then moved outboard and raised just a bit in front.
    20200228_133736_2.jpg
    20200301_170557_2.jpg

    This reclined position mimics my daily driver's ergonomics, clears the huge trans tunnel, and leaves room for a driveshaft loop and short tunnel.:cool:
    20200301_180223_HDR_2.jpg

    I'm 6'2" and even with the top chop, have just enough headroom.:)
    20200301_172141_HDR_2.jpg

    Rear seats pivot around a 1" square tube frame, which is bolted to tabs welded to the subrails.
    20200222_104543_2.jpg

    Their rear inboard corners rest on the rearend hump.
    I ran out of MIG gas shortly after tacking everything. :oops:
    20200222_105446_2.jpg

    "Simplify, then add lightness." ~ Colin Chapman; Founder, Lotus racing team & car company
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
  23. 6sally6
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 2,642

    6sally6
    Member

    Just finished the entire thread!! Super build I like it a lot, But.......(you knew that was coming!) I would like to see the tailpipes out the rear much larger in diameter. Really make a statement! Maybe even flared trumpet-style. Although 2 1/2" is large for most street rods yours is more Altered looking soooo it needs to be more radical almost to the ridiculous.
    Jus say'in not nit-pick'in.
    6sally6
     
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  24. Very cool Gary. Now you can sit in there and make loud engine noises.:D
     
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  25. The Wayne Ewing-fabricated Greer/Black/Prudhomme dragster scoop "makes me feel kinda funny, like when we used to climb the rope in gym class.":D
    gbp 001.jpg

    I copied it but with an air filter inside; starting with a 9"x5" tall cardboard buck.
    gbp 005.JPG

    Next was a male scoop buck around that, using school locker sheetmetal and cardboard...
    gbp 020.JPG gbp 030.JPG gbp 035.JPG gbp 060.JPG

    ...reinforced by plywood.

    The top rib is a scrap of 1/4" all-thread.
    gbp 065.JPG

    Cut, bend, tack, critique, repeat... Until the shape is right.
    gbp 075.jpg

    I covered the buck with three layers of fiberglass cloth & resin...
    gbp 077.jpg
    gbp 080.jpg

    ...then Evercoat Rage Gold filler:
    gbp 095.jpg

    A wood block with a 1/2" slot made a perfect sanding block to keep both the top rib and the perimeter rim straight.
    20200308_162123_2.jpg

    Several cycles of filler/guide-coat/block sanding fine-tuned the shape.
    gbp 105.jpg
    gbp 110.jpg

    Next, some dark gloss rattlecan paint confirmed it was straight.
    gbp 115.jpg gbp 120.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2020
  26. I covered the buck with release agent, then made the top and bottom female molds.
    gbp 130.jpg gbp 140.jpg

    Finally, the top and bottom halves of the scoop itself. Each was two layers of glass cloth with embedded metal stiffening rods.
    gbp 150.jpg gbp 155.jpg

    I shredded their edges really badly when removing them from from the molds:eek: (Insufficient release agent? :confused:) and had to fix them before continuing. :mad:
    gbp 165.jpg

    The inlet screen came from the same office ventilation duct screen as my grille insert.

    It's held in place with glassed-in studs and lock nuts.
    gbp 170.jpg

    Three 18 ga. triangles are plug-welded to the K&N filter base. 1/4"x20 machine screws & glassed-in nuts connect them to the fiberglass scoop.
    gbp 195.jpg gbp 200.jpg gbp 205.jpg

    Then, a couple layers of cloth & resin join the top & bottom halves.
    gbp 210.jpg

    Finally, a light primer coat and mounted:
    20200310_171010_2.jpg 20200310_171619_HDR_2.jpg gbp 32.jpg 20200310_171514_HDR_2.jpg

    This was my first fiberglass project and it needs some clean-up work, but I'm pretty happy with the results. :)

    BTW, these pics were taken four years ago but I didn't have a carb to mount it on until this past Christmas, compliments of my beloved but long-suffering bride.:rolleyes:
     
  27. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,446

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Ya gotta be proud of that Milestone Gary...it looks awesome...
     
  28. Wow Gary, very impressed – that looks awesome!
     
  29. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,174

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

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