Hot Rods Frozen 8BA Revisited...

Pete has a great rep, and you can go to FordBarn and ask. Plus the years of his experience of what you want vs what you need, could play dividends in the end. Going through a FH isn't cheap, so spending more money on the right cam would be a drop in the bucket.

 

So the first pic is where a teeny crack goes into the cylinder as well as a tiny one they are not concerned with and the second pic shows the weird double crack. The second pick also shows two tiny cracks they are not worried about.

 

Ouch! That double crack looks fatal. Does the machinist think they can save that?

If it is saved, make sure that you fully clean the water jackets with sand blasting down into them. I think the regular heat and blast in an automatic cabinet won't get down into the water jackets. Sand blasting by hand you can aim into the cavities and get all that original Ford casting sand loose.

My flathead had this done at rebuild and it runs 170 all the time.

 

You’re right Alchemy,,,that looks a little scary .
That is in the center area,,,it might not not matter too much,,,I’m new to all this Flathead crack business and am still learning on all the flaws and where to look.
I do know tha5 there are people with the talent to fix almost anything.
Indy cylinder head can fix just about anything,,,and I have read where Hand H welds a lot of unfixable blocks. It all goes back to a talented craftsman and the right equipment and process..
Hope it works out .

Tommy

 

I’m with them ^ I think I would look for a new block rather than risk that

 

Well I was worried but they say they can handle it. I have complete confidence in them but we will see... I do have another block that may be a candidate if need be.

 

Depending on how deep the two cracks going from the cylinder to the valve pocket are, maybe if you relieved the block it could possibly remove the cracked area.

 

No problem,,,,I always try to listen to the pros,,,,they usually know more than I do .
It might not be a crack,,,but where something marked it .

Tommy

 

That a darn good idea...

 

That is also a good point...

Both you and Aaron D. get a gold ⭐️!

 

One way to find out if the crack is deep is to do a liquid dye penetrant test on the crack. Apply the dye and let it creep in the cracks for a half hour as the dye will creep deep into the crack if it is deep. Wipe the surface with the recommend solvent then spray on the white developer. If it is a deep crack the penetrant will wick a heavy bleed out into the developer. A shallow crack or "indication" will leave a very light bleed in the developer. That may be an inexpensive way to test yourself. The thing is once the crack has been ground on the dye may not work on follow up as grinding can smear the crack over.

If the person that did the testing is an experienced tester then he should know what he is looking at. Usually if there is a deep crack the particles pile up on both sides of the crack to highlight it. If it is a surface indication then there is not a break in the magnetic field as there would be with a crack but may have been noted just as an indication. In non destructive testing the marks are deemed "indications" the split into relevant and non-relevant. Relevant ones are the ones of concern. The tester should be able to tell the difference.

 

This is a great idea! Re-looking at the pics I'm going to hold off on the heat and blast treatment and see if they can look a little closer at that weird double crack and perhaps start the pinning and see how it goes.

I'll be trying to remove a set of original Johnson adjustable lifters this week in another flathead I have and may just disassemble the whole engine and take that for evaluation instead.

The journey continues..

 

Went back to the machine shop today to discuss the dreaded "double crack" (no, not the toilet paper hoarders!). They are not concerned in the least as they say the cracks have no where to go and right below the area it is solid. They explained it as an island which they will connect to the mainland with stitching. We will have a couple done before the bake and blast though to be sure.

 

Well I started taking my other flathead apart today, it's a C1BA. More work than the first! I took all the keepers off the valves and managed to get five of the valves out. It has the two piece retainers so different from my first block. Got two piston and con rods out but one wants to escape but there isn't enough clearance between the block and the con rod.

I removed five valves, guides, etc. One weird thing is that even though the keepers are removed I can't get the other valves to lift up. Any ideas boys?

I'm soaking the pistons overnight and I hope they will loosen up soon. One of the problems is that since I can't rotate the crank I can't get at some of the con rod nuts.

Big plus is that I got five of the original Johnson lifters out! No Merc crank this time though...

Anyone know of the C1BA cam is anything special.

 

Forgot to mention that this second block has a crack from the valve to the cylinder though I can't tell how deep it goes. And a second crack two inches along the pan rail where the gasket lays. At first I was disappointed but after doing some research on here and the Ford Barn apparently they both can be repaired.

Sleeve the cylinder and pin the area between the cylinder and valve pocket and then a new seat. The rail issue can apparently be repaired with JB Weld since it isn't pressurized. I'm intrigued with the other thread on here where the fellow used block cement to add a little beef to the lower block...

 

Hmm. I always read that pan rail cracks were fatal.

It's Auliz in Europe who had the thread where he fills the bottom inch or so of the water jacket with block rock.

 

Yep, I thought they were the death knell but apparently some are being saved. H&H apparently gets them welded, some use JB Weld, Auliz does the engine cement thing...

I did a search and Mart, Crusty Flathead rebuild, welded his up. But these are only for cracks along where the gasket fits not for cracks that go inside of the block. I'll now be keeping this second block as you never know....

 

Well I gave it gave it a good try but had to throw in the towel, for now, on taking apart my other block which is a C1BA. I believe this block is a '51-53 while the other is '49-50. The first block appears to have the hardened valve seats while the second does not.

Engine shop is going to hot tank the second one next week and then we will compare. I'll probably go with the first one at any rate. The bores in the second block look really good as does the cam and crank. This second engine was rebuilt some time in it s life but some disrespectful twit allowed water to get in through the intake and one piston is stuck so tight to the block you'd think it was cast in at the foundry as well as the five remaining valves.

I did get eleven of the lifters out and they look great so I want the last five so I can use them in either block. I was thinking of tossing this second block but what looked useless upon first sight may not be all that bad after all. After it has its bath it's "Magnaflux Time!".

 

There's a good chance the stuck piston will dissolve out in the hot tank, assuming it's aluminum.

 

I'm hoping all the stuck parts loosen up some so I can at least get the remaining lifters out...

 

When I moved my second flathead I decided to tidy up my shelves and re-discovered these...

Pricey little buggers at $.35 each! LOL

 

No updates as the machine shop is quite busy. I figure if the stuck valves will not come out, I can't even get them to lift a tiny pit in the pocket, I'll make a simple screw jack. Cut the valves with bolt cutters if I can and then place a ready rod/all thread couplerthat's been weld to a piece of steel plate under what is left of the valve. A bolt in the coupler with a bit of a hole bored into the head of the bolt. Then I schould be able to loosen the bolt from the couple and it will exert pressure on the valve stem hopefully force the valve up! Then I grab the remaining lifters...

 

Well,,,,you’re not gonna reuse the valves that are stuck anyway .
Take a center punch and mark the valve head,,,,,drill through the face of the valve .
Once the valve head is out of the way,,,,take a tool,,,,deep well socket maybe,,,and drive the guide out the bottom .
That is just an idea ?

Tommy

 

I'll think about that idea. The socket as a driver trick I used on the other engine as well as on the second engine already. Works perfectly. As for removing the valve face now that's a good idea but I would need room to drive the guide down with the remaining stem in it and I may not have the room if the lifters are still in place...

But all ideas and comments are welcomed as long as they are civil!

 

The bottom is another matter altogether,,,,with the lifter in place .
Just be careful with the decks,,,,they are fairly thin,,,,(about a quarter inch ),,,and can be damaged easily.
Good luck man .

Tommy

 

I got my second flathead back today. The stuck piston was out when I picked it up. The five stuck valves remained stuck but I managed to get two out. Back at it tomorrow. They did a crack test and apparently there is only one from a valve pocket to cylinder which shouldn’t be difficult to repair.

Now I will rethink which block to go for. The second one was rebuilt I I see minimal wear...

Can someone identify which year block had this little relief at the front of the right hand deck? See pic...

 

It looks like someone's taken a power sander to the deck surface. If so it will need to have the decks milled, so before spending money on it make sure it will clean up within acceptable limits.

 

Well I did go over it quickly and lightly with a wire brush. Any idea on what year of block? It says C0BA. I'm just wondering about that little relief.

 

I’m not certain if I understand about the pic with the relief .
Are you talking about this ,,,,where the red arrow points ?