Hot Rods Electronic Ignition?????

Bruce - I am not a Chryco expert, but according to my info the Chryco electronic ignition had a control module box(probably not the correct terminology) from the time it was introduced on some models in 1971 and all V8 models in 1972

 

Yes if it is a Chrysler setup it has a control module. Again maybe we could help if we knew what we were dealing with


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Make sure you routed the wires on the cap the proper way and not backwards. I/e firing order should follow rotor rotation.

 

Here’s a clue/
“... and the code went away”

 

I think he was referring to his off topic truck not the car, which is also off topic but again it’s all a puzzle at this point!

I think the car is the one with the ignition problem? I think it had points but then was converted to some unknown electronic ignition, maybe? Maybe not? Hell I don’t know!

Where’s my secret decoder ring?


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One more thing, make sure you are looking at the correct timing mark. I don’t know on Mopars, but my Ford had two timing marks, a big one for a computer pickup test machine, and a smaller, hard to see one for a timing light. I was using the wrong one and it threw the timing out about 2 or 2 1/2 plug spaces. Once I got that figured out, it fired the first time. Again, another one of those times I felt like an idiot when I realized what I had been doing, all the time knowing better......

 

Jimmy, I did remove the dist.because it was way in the back of the motor and hard for me to reach. That might be what the problem might be even thought I marked it before taking it out. Thanks Bruce.

 

I'm with the 180 out group, take the valve cover off and verify closed valves on #1

 

I remember adding a Mopar electronic ignition kit to an older Plymouth that had points and a mechanical voltage regulator. Mopar's conversion instructions specified that the mechanical voltage regulator had to be changed to a newer solid state model. Not sure if it was a matter of not working properly or affecting durability.

If you're installing used Chrysler ignition parts you might try also picking up the voltage regulator from the same vehicle. If possible, also try to trace down the wiring from the regulator. Though the info likely is readily available online.

 

By the way Bruce is describing the installation, and it not having a control box, I suspect he has installed a Pertronix setup inside his dist. The 1st Mopar electronic ignition systems used a module on the firewall, first introduced in 1972 performance cars, the across the board in 1973. It remained unchanged until the introduction of the Lean Burn system when the module was replaced with an onboard computer.
Its been a long time, but don't Pertronix system replace the points? I believe the gap has to be properly set the 1st time for them to work correctly, and it sounds like the gap may be incorrect, or it could be out of time, how much you rotate the dist when your trying to start the car will also mess up the timing pretty quickly.
You really need to bring #1 up on compression, line up the timing marks at 0 degrees (TDC) and be sure the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire terminal. Having the dist turned 2 terminals off (either direction) will act the same as being 180 out.

The reason Mopar suggests adding the electronic voltage regulator is because the old mechanical regulators sometimes didn't charge at an idle and the electronic ignition modules didn't like low voltage very well. If you get a new electronic voltage regulator, you need to be sure you get a replacement one for the old mechanical regulator, the newer electronic regulator vehicles had a different alternator and the modern regulator won't work on the old system.

the electronic regulator vs the mechanical regulator didn't effect how the motor started unless it ran low enough on voltage, long enough to kill the module. According to Bruce, this system doesn't have a module. Gene

 

We still don’t know what he has so it’s all speculation at this point. All we know is it doesn’t work and he wants ideas why?


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Well, duh...it's obvious....something is wrong.

 

ClayMart mine has a voltage regulator aready.Thanks Bruce.

 

Gene, I think that's what I did wrong.With work I wont be able to get it till SAT.I will let you all know what happens and have a good one.Thanks Bruce.

 

It's been a long time since I've had a hand in doing one of these conversions. Thanks for filling in a lot of the details that had escaped me.

 

Yes Fargo you are right.Bruce.

 

In case you didn't pick up on his hint Bruce, he's asking you what you did with the distributor. Did you convert it to electronic somehow? did you replace it with a different distributor? what exact parts did you install?

Some of us are trying to help you fix your car, but you just will not tell us what you did, so there is no way we can help you.

It's pretty frustrating from this end...

 

Jim is correct, we have asked several times what you are dealing with but it seems to be a secret so the best we can do is say the reason it doesn't work is because something is wrong...

 

maybe the secret would be off topic

 

Just say the distributer is going in a early dodge hemi

 

He must have stabbed the Dizzy in wrong !

 

I haven't caught up on all the recent suggestions, so excuse if this is a repeat.
Could it be the same thing that was discussed in the HEI thread? I installed an engine (with HEI) in a car that previously had a points distributor. That's the first time I learned that the wire going to the coil wasn't 12 volts (except when cranking, I think) Also learned that it was the ballast resistor that dropped the voltage to 9 volts.
So, if it is wired to the original ignition wire, (and if it had a points distributor)
then it would need 12v.
I guess. (too)

 

Sorry Squirrel, I changed it from point over to electric igignition same dist.but I think I just dropped the dist in 180 off when I had it out. I will let you all know sunday after I work on it after I get home from work sat.Thanks Bruce.

 

YUP! Bruce.

 

If the 180 off doesn’t do it, I’m nearly certain Pertronix systems do not need a ballast resistor. I have an Ignitor III and it does not. Can’t wait to hear what he finds this weekend.

 

Well I officially give up...after asking several times we know it’s points converted to electronic, we know it doesn’t work but we still have no way to actually offer helpful information. I hope Bruce can get it running


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Fargo just chill buddy.Let me try something this weekend and I will all let you know if it works or if I need help.Thanks Bruce.

 

Ok.....


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Trying to understand how electronic ignition caused any of this.