Very common to weld an arm to the bottom of the stock brake pedal and mount a master to the backside of the crossmember with a simple bracket, and the rod runs right under the K member. Trick is to keep the arm as short as possible to just clearance under the K member. This will keep the ratio as close to 6:1 as possible.
I used a stock pedal assembly and made an adapter to hold the master cylinder. I started by bolting a plate to the K member and welding the bracket to that, thus no additional holes. I relocated the battery to the right side but with todays smaller batteries I might have left it on the left. The hole in the floor originally intended to service the battery provided a place to fill the master cylinder. Charlie Stephens
Some inspiration ............ ? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-ford-4-doors-who-has-one.277993/page-12
re brakes and much other 32 chassis stuff https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-pickup-rebuild-thread-updated-1-11-16.970252/
Thanks @clem and @97 . I read through the '32 4dr thread. I had seen some of the pics before when I did a search on 4drs. The '32 pickup thread I will read later today. Dave
Today my friend brought me a set of '32 pedals! The brake pedal has been modified by cutting off the short mech brake arm and welding it on the bottom. It has also had the upper part of the pedal arm cut off just below the upper bend and welded back together lowering the brake pedal pad and the upper part by an inch or so. I am pretty sure I can correct that without much trouble. Just glad to get a workable set! Dave
Shortening the pedal top was probably done to clear the engine. Even a 59A flathead bolted in the stock location will be very close to the brake pedal.
So ya think I should leave it alone for now? Wait til engine and trans are installed and decide then? I added pics. Thanks, Dave
The angle of the pic makes it seem 3 inches shorter, not just an inch. I'd sure leave it til you get the engine installed, but I'd aim to get it as close to original length as possible. The pedal ratio should be 6:1. I think my lower arm needed to be a bit too long to reach under the crossmember and push the master mounted off a plate on the backside. I don't know what my final ratio is, but it works OK.
Yeah, it is probably closer to 1 3/4 to 2 inches now that I look again. The pedal itself is close to stock position because it is angled up a little from the weld. I found out yesterday another friend has the ORIGINAL pedal assembly from this car but the brake pedal has had the top 4" cut off and is missing. I may be able to buy this set and make one good one out of the two. Who knows?! Dave Just found out the ORIGINAL to this car pedal assembly had the top 4" of the CLUTCH pedal cut off, not the brake. Will definitely make a good set out of the two.
Brought the body, fenders, hood and some small pieces home today. Set the body back on it's original chassis. I am amazed at the lack of rust, especially in the sub frames. Nothing! There is a little in the doors but not much. Plenty of dents and bullet holes. Here are today's pics! Dave
Dave, here is shot of my buddy Bob's 4 door, for inspiration. It looks like you have some great pieces to work with, have fun !
Thanks Marty! That's pretty much the look I'm going for minus the hair pins. I picked up the original pedal assembly today from my friend Glenn in Bend along with small pieces for the cowl vent. He also has a '39 type trans with '32 mount I will get from him along with the '41 rear end he gave me today. He also has a line on an original windshield w/ glass I will check into. Had a couple hours to kill between MRI's and bone scans so I used it to pick up '32 parts! He has more things I may end up needing. Dave
Well, that windshield isn't for sale so I will be in the market for one. How do the aftermarket w/s fit? Dave
I've recently spent many hours and a good chunk of dollars acquiring and sandblasting a few windshield frames only to find rust through deep in the grooves of every one of them. Basically unrepairable. Unless you can purchase one already blasted clean, I wouldn't waste the money for used. Buy a new one from UPAC.
Thanks @alchemy . I have looked at theirs. For sure a candidate. However, having grown up in Missouri and Illinois I know all too much about the rust in the midwest. That's something we have very little of in Central Oregon fortunately. Dave
Gathered some more goodies today for the '32. Picked up 2 transmissions, grey one is a '36 converted to open drive and the other is a '34. Both have severely shortened shifters. The grey one has a 9/16" bolt welded to the top! Must of had a bowling ball on there for a shift knob! It also has a '32 mount. The rebuilt, then removed to hot rod, rear end is a '41. Picked it up just cuz, no plans, maybe just the brakes. Dave
Not to hijack this cool build. Who makes the repro 32 brake pedal with the push rod arm on the bottom for juice brakes? We picked up one at the roundup a couple of years ago. The pedal in our 32 had an ugly booger welded arm on the bottom . Down under we can not weld brake or steering components.
Dave, the dark colored trans is probably not a '34. At least the shifter assembly and the rear mount are from a later trans.
Well Fritz Jr, the serial number on it says it is. That's what I was going by on both of them. I agree on the rear mount. I don't know them well enough to know on the shifter assembly. I think both trans have been messed with a bunch. Did anyone notice the clutch lever on the grey '36? Dave
fwiw; I’ve used 2 x speedway motors windscreen frames, - the second one would not fit a stock height car. Was about 3/4“ short. Both needed tweaking around the corners and else where. the chrome plater messed up the first one, which still had acid trapped between the hinge brackets and completely rusted out in 12 months. this was in the days before UP. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-ford-5w-sedan-windshield-frame.971729/ .
Got a few more bits and pieces yesterday and today. HRCTom from Texas on Ford Barn (aka @CrazyDaddy ) sold me some front and rear spring u-bolts and pads at a great price and @yankee mike from NC sold me a '32 rear spring. I called him today wondering where it was as I was worried since it hadn't shown up that maybe he got hit by the tornadoes but he was fine and had sent it over 2 weeks ago by fedex. He called fedex to find out what the hey and not 5 minutes after I talked to him I looked out the front window and fedex was pulling up to my house. Young delivery guy said "that must be a leaf spring!" Yep, thanks so much! Called @yankee mike back and told him the good news, he said fedex told him everything is really slow! Anyway, both these gentlemen are A1 in my book! Thanks guys! Dave
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