In the 54 i have a 351W with AOD. I am running a NEW 6 cyl 3 row radiator with no trans cooler built in. Due to the lower radiator hose i can only install a 16 in fan. I dont want to run an electric fan because my trans cooler would only get air through it in city traffic if the temp was high enough. I know i should run a shroud and that will come after i figure out what fan i am going to use. Clutch or Flex......Hopefully getting it on the road by summer
Not a fan of flex ... no pun intended! They are noisy and usually built cheap. If rivets fail you will have a head start on hood louvers.
Electric for both https://www.flex-a-lite.com/transmi...nch-with-electric-fan-with-6-an-fittings.html
Here is what I did. I used an electric fan****embly with a shroud from Vintage Air. I put an over-ride switch in under the dash to turn the fan on at will in spite of the thermostat. I have air in my car and have not experienced any issues. I have an external trans cooler for the AOD with no fan and have not had any issues either.
Electric fan for the win, clutch fan second and flex trailing at the end.. Just make sure your electrical system is adequate. If you have AC use a relay activated at the same time as the compressor clutch that will activate the fan. That's the way most modern cars are equipped.. Food for thought. Dave
Ya i would prefer an electric fan, but i was concerned the trans would overheat around town. Tks Pheaton193 for the overide idea. Never thought of that.. Guess i will give the electric more consideration
Yes on hooking up fan to turn on with AC. I did same with a solenoid mounted at carb to keep the idle up.
This is the one I have https://www.ebay.com/itm/16-INCH-EL...brand=American&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 You will see cheaper ones BUT they usually have only an 80 watt motor this one is 130 watt. I also have a shroud on mine too.
My transmission cooler is mounted on the passenger side of the splash pan behind the grille so it's a straight shot from the AOD's cooler lines. This size worked out well I did not run it through the radiator. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tru-Cool-L...276138?hash=item3b129be16a:g:JHEAAOSwDn5bM9MM
If you are going to get an electric fan, let me save you a ton of head ache. Buy a Cooling Components and be done with it. I had the swap meet electric fans and they just make a lot of noise. Spend the bucks up front. I have solved all overheating my problems with their setup. I always run their adjustable controller as well. That way I can fine tune it to the temp I want t to kick on/off at. One note is you will need at least a 90 AMP alternator.
I concur with the Cooling Component fan. They have 2 versions, one takes about 4" clearance at the motor, the other about 2". If I remember correctly, the short motor version has two speeds and requires more current on high than the longer motor requires. Their rep told me that they both pull 2600 cfm. I have the 4" version on my flathead and it keeps my engine cool in 95 degree temps, probably higher, I haven't used it in hotter weather.
I have two of the Cooling Components fans , both have been in service for a good while with no issues.
I should be their sales rep as much as I pimp their product. I just like to promote stuff that actually works.
I run a name brand flex fan and a shroud. It knocked 5 degrees off the solid fan temperature. I run a 16" Spal fan with a t-stat as a back up if I get stuck idling for a long time. The solid fan with no shroud, I would be up to 210 in about 5 minutes of sitting.
I like those products....I know the shroud will help with cooling when the electric fan is running, but does the shroud impede air flow when the car is moving and the fan is NOT running. Was just wondering because the large amount of airflow now has to go through a smaller diameter with a fan motor in the way.
Jeff and I have a good natured running debate about electric fans & engine driven fans but we both agree you need at least one or the other. I believe with a good radiator and a well built metal bladed fan that's all you need to keep your car cool. I have been building hot rods since I was a teenager and tried many different fans, both electric and all kinds of mechanical ones, I am just sharing what I found what works best for me. The fan I use doesn't have the small aluminum blades that don't really move very much air, I use a Summit fan, they are available in several different sizes and I don't worry about running hot even in bumper to bumper traffic. HRP
Since the shroud is the same dimensions as the radiator and the fan & shroud are on the engine side of the radiator it would not restrict the air coming in, it would keep it from deflecting out to the sides. You will get a slight amount of restriction from the A/C condenser the fan will probably run more than it will be off.
A 5-6 blade mechanical fan, proper water pump speed at idle, and a fan shroud will cool just about anything. I’m not a fan of electric ones...
A mechanical fan can work if all else is in good working condition and capacities are correct. However, sitting in traffic on a hot day with the A/C on can be a recipe for overheating unless you have an efficient cooling system with an electric fan. I think today's cars have electric fans for good reason and it doesn’t appear to be cost. If my car didn’t require an electric fan, I wouldn’t use one. However, if wired properly, an added advantage of an electric fan is that you can shut it off when it is not needed... less noise, more power and mpg. I like many others have a lot of money in my engine and am not about to jeopardize it because of a fan bias. It’s all about efficiency! Likely, others have mechanical fans and have no problems, but that is not my experience. I have 3 street rods, all with electric fans and no overheating problems. Having gone on a number of runs, overheating is a common problem.
I wasn't crazy about adding an electric fan either, but it only comes on when I need it and goes off when things cool down. They are too noisy to use all the time, at least to me. I have always hated waiting to get into one cruise night and without the fan, it always boiled over.
Last year I changed/added to the electric fan wiring so now it'll not only come on at engine temp request(rarely does), and A/C request, but now also at MY request at the flip of a switch. The harder part of the new wiring addition was wiring in a indicator light that ONLY came on when I had my switch on. I didn't want the light to come on when the fan was on for other reasons. The trick to that was a diode (one way)to prevent closing the ground on the light unless I had the switch on.
Found this video to add to the mix. Over the years we have found the Mustang radiator as an option when doing a 302 SBF swap sometimes the extra length of a 302/5.0 causes a radiator clearance issue this maybe a good solution because the water pump hub is between the two fans.
I would agree with all posts recomeding Cooling Components all the way!! 1. you dont hear it whirring like cheap fans 2. Slim width fits our cars with swaps with ease. 3. Keeps my 521 big block 180 no matter what temp. Cooling Components 1720 fits Champion Radiator CC5456HD perfectly!
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