2500 rpm.... smh.... that’s inefficient. With an 1800 - 6200 rpm range, I didn’t know it wouldn’t be happy at the bottom end of that rev range. I understood I’d lose some low end for unneeded top end. I’m not the $800 dyno type. Isnt that a no no word on the forum? Dyno’s are computer managed, lol. I’m jk, thanks for the help. I’m going to run it, hopefully it’s enough fun I ignore the mpg. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Tommy that’s f’n genius! Thanks for the tip! I’ll buy another container. I’ve used it on tons of different stuff. I have ATV parts sitting in the can now. Lunati recommends a set of springs. $190, but figured it was worth the added security. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Those buckets are easy to come by ,,,with removable tops . Lowe’s has them,,,a few dollars . Firehouse subs has really good ones,,,they are red,,,,with white lids . I think they get pickles in them,,,,and sell them after they are empty? Tommy
2 things: 1st: I'm brand new to this site and for some reason I can not seem to find where to start a post or thread or what ever you call it. Can someone help me with that? 2nd: The question im trying to post is about a 327 sbc cam and the only numbers I can come up with on the back of the cam i can't seem to find anywhere. They are 406090? Or maybe 406080?
It’s okay,,,we all start somewhere . It’s on the right side of the page at the beginning . Look for the red box,,,,I marked it with a green arrow . You can start a thread easy,,,,and there are a ton of 327 experts here . Good luck man . Tommy
It helps if you realize the cam company is lying about the power range, inflating how low the rpm range starts because that is the current game of one-upmanship to generate sales is played in the industry. Crower is the only company that is being truthful about cam rpm range, and they even put out the info in their catalog as to how any given cam rpm range is going to change based on what cubic inch engine it is put into.(radical cam in a 260 SBF is a mild cruiser cam in a 427 Stroker Windsor)' Basic "Laws" (so to speak) of engine physics limits a fixed drive(no variable cam timing)camshaft domestic V8 to a 3000 rpm real powerband, maybe 3300 rpm on a really science out build. That means if the cam description says it is good up to 6800 rpm, then in reality it won't really start making decent power until 3500-3800 rpm....there is no "magic cam spec" that is going to subvert this basic construct. If I was to judge by your cams .050" duration and rather tight lobe separation, I'd say Comp is lying about both ends of the rpm scale....it'll likely not start to run cleanly(no reversion chop, no unsteady metering, no chugging in too low a trans gear behavior or at cruise) until somewhere close to that 2500 rpm figure and is going to be all done making power by 6000 rpm. For it to behave the way you've said you want the engine to behave, it would work a whole lot better in a 393 Stroker Windsor. I'll just repeat the best advice I could give you with that cam and cubic inch....DON"'T retard the installed intake lobe centerline to 112° like you mentioned in an early post and some less knowledgable guys have agreed with....it will murder the low end power and the potential gas mileage. In the end, its up to you.
Crower rpm range was always dead on . Quality product too,,,at least when I was using them . I hope they still are,,,,,I know companies integrity’s come and go,,,depending on who owns them . Tommy
Not on the cam but on heads good video https://video.search.yahoo.com/sear...=f9522ff569a382466b2df8234b317392&action=view
With a 272/280 Duration @ .050 and a 3:73 gear, you'd be lucky to get 10 mpg, especially if you don't do a valve job. You need a 260/270 cam or smaller, a 3:25 gear, 28"-29" tires, and good sealing valves to get 18-19 mpg.
I was unaware the cam manufacturer's numbers couldn't be trusted. I'm not surprised though. Quality has been sacrificed for the power of the dollar. Gotta lower that production cost. Thank you for the advice. What type of lift/duration/lobe sep angle would you recommend? Is lift the problem or the duration? My machine shop gave me the round about specs. I did some searching, found this cam at a steal. I read the numbers to the machine shop and was given the thumbs up. I've always been told to trust the machine shop's recommendation. Maybe there's some sabotage going on, because I didn't want to spend the money on $1,500 worth of shop time. I don't understand the Lunati rep lying either. Wouldn't it make more sense to sell me the cam I actually want / need versus giving me a thumbs up on a cam I won't like? The cam's advertised duration is 273 / 279, but the duration at .050 is 221 and 227. I need a duration chart, lol. Like a calculator for determining best measurements on an algorithm. If somebody could work on that for me it'd be great, thanks. Lol... It was so easy installing the cam with no bottom end. Now, I've got to pull the cam the old fashioned way, long bolts and super careful, lol. This was the first time I installed a cam in a bare engine block. It was tits.
Google'd cam calculator: It's very accurate. I wish it would allow me to enter a cubic inch/RPM scale/gearing/tires/etc..... https://mgispeedware.com/camshaft-calculator/ Cam Spec: Exhaust Open: 52BBDC Exhaust Centerline: 118BTDC Exhaust Close: 5BTDC Intake Open: 5BTDC Intake Centerline: 106ATDC Intake Close: 37ABDC Exhaust Area: 39.2 Intake Area: 37.2 Exhaust/Intake Area Ratio: 1.1 : 1.0 Overlap: 0 Overlap Area: 0.0 Overlap/Total Area: 0.0%
Gofastmath.com has a decent calculator: https://www.gofastmath.com/Horsepower_Calculators/Horsepower_Calculator Unless I did something incorrectly, I ended up exactly where I wanted. Calculating my Dynamic Compression Cylinder Bore: 4.0 Stroke: 3.5 Cylinder Head Chamber Volume CC's: 60 Piston Dish/Dome: (enter negative # for dome) 13 Head Gasket Thickness: (.038 is a typical value) .038 Head Gasket Bore: 4.1 Deck Clearance: (.020 is a typical value) .023 Dynamic Compression: 8.1:1 This brings me to 405 hp at 5573 rpm. Working backwards put the tq: 381 ft lb
Look, most of us hot rodders are from the old school of "cut and try". Industry calls it "experimental". We try to make an educated guess on what might work on our combination, but it might not work depending on other things in the combination that we're not aware of. That's why a lot of times we end up saying, "We'll, it looked good on paper..." I've bought more cams that I thought were "good", only to take them out and throw them away. It's not just cams either, it's other performance parts too. The short version of this is, we're not all mechanical engineers with a doctorate degree. What the h___ is an algorithm? Just put that sucker in there and see if it works! If it don't work, then take it out and try another one. It'll be faster, cheaper and a whole lot more fun than sitting there trying to figure it all out on paper. Who knows, you may find out that you just learned an important lesson!
I grew up poor as shit, lol. I've always loved cars, but never had the money to play. This is a pay to play hobby. I've got entry level $$ these days, but I don't have the stomach to waste/fail. A side effect of going without electricity/water at different points hahaha..... I can install the engine without putting the truck back together, so I'll give it a go around the block. I already spent the money/installed the part, so it's not returnable anyway. Quick google search definition: algorithm - a process or set of rules to be followed in calculations or other problem-solving operations, especially by a computer. Engine Blueprinting - Super interesting stuff.....
Well, I don't think you po-no-mo. Hope you have a good job, talking about building a Y-Block, 408, alum heads, Holley Sniper, etc. You might be afterwards though!
Much better lmao, but still not wasting money if I can help it. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's me, living the dream. I was getting 10 mpg with the 3.56 rear, but went to a 3.89 to keep the revs up around town and I might be in at around 9 now.
As an owner and user of Pro Maxx heads you will not be sorry you bought them. I bought a set of full race CNC ported small block Ford heads . I tore them down to check them for seat run out problems and guide fitment . They were perfect. Yes they are cast offshore, but all the machine work is done right here in the states. They use good valves and springs.
I've been getting 19-20 mpg lately on regular 87 octane, with my 389" SBC, 264/270 roller, 2.02-1.6 valves, IK-180 heads, 750 Eddy, 144 B&M (capable of 4-5# boost), 3:25 gear, 28.5" tires, T-5. This motor is a torque monster! It can be done...
I bought the valve checker, but the rockers werent removing the marker from the tips of the valves. It did remove it once or twice, but it looks like the hydraulic rollers give 2 much for a good solid read. The stock length worked the 1-2 times it removed the marker. I used 0 pressure cam springs during the check, because I was told it would prevent squashing the roller. I've read that some guys use washers to prevent the drainage. Any body have a link/youtube video or similar you could point me towards for reference? I've been getting 19-20 mpg lately on regular 87 octane, with my 389" SBC, 264/270 roller, 2.02-1.6 valves, IK-180 heads, 750 Eddy, 144 B&M (capable of 4-5# boost), 3:25 gear, 28.5" tires, T-5. This motor is a torque monster! It can be done... your living the dream!! Thanks for confidence boost. I pulled them apart as well. Everything looks great. I don't have hands on experience, but was reading a head re-build guide while inspecting and everything checked out. Happy to find the pistons don't need to be notched!!
I was reading through and realized the discrepancy here, my cam is 221/227 at .050. Advertised duration is 273/279.
OK, I see it. A 273/279 (adv.) is a little big for gas mileage. They sound good, but the RPM Range: 2200-6200 is too high. You want to have a cam with about 1500-5400 rpm range for mileage, and a 3.25/3.31 gear.
While I can contribute nothing in the way of expertise with the problem you are having with your cam, I must tell you I was highly offended by your suggestion to " retard the cam." The politically correct term "cognitive disability " should have been used there. If you continue to use offensive terms about your cam, it will be traumatized and never work right.
Welp, that’s hilarious lmao. I’ll try to use cognitive disability in a sentence later with a few friends. So have you guys had problems with cognitively disabling your cam? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
With respect to gearing.... A lot depends on where you are, and how you drive it. Lots of stop start town driving or significant hills, you may find that a lower (numerically higher) rear gear actually improves economy by reducing the load on the engine. Out on the freeway its totally different of course. There are so many different factors that can come into play, the results of a rear end ratio change can sometimes go the exact opposite of what you expected. Only way to know for sure is to try it and see how it goes.
Very happy with rotation, compression, and dress. All the way down to Fords torque spec on rotating the engine. Now to get started on the transplant patient. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There is a difference of opinion, regarding the calculation of dynamic compression ratio. gofastmath and UEM/Keith Black calculators need the intake valve opening at .050. however, UEM says to add 15 to the .050 IVC. The 15 is a constant, regardless of your .050 IVC. Both UEM and gofastmath calculate the exact same static and dynamic compression, so gofastmath must have "15" pre-programmed into their calculation. However, on 460ford, it is stated that the advertised/.006 lift IVC should be used when calculating dynamic compression. Ted Eaton (Eaton Balancing) also insists that the "advertised" IVC be used when calculating dynamic compression. In my case, using gofastmath and UEM, I get a static compression ratio of 9.13:1 and a dynamic compression of 7.99:1. Considering I have Schneider Racing's second smallest Ford Y-block cam, I think 7.99:1 dynamic is accurate. On the other hand, if I use the "advertised" IVC, my dynamic compression ratio is only 6.81:1. I sent email to Jerry Cantrell (Schneider Racing) and Ted Eaton, provided my cam card numbers, and waiting for replies. I think it is a good idea to calculate your dynamic compression ratio, using a particular camshaft's cam card's numbers, before purchasing a cam that will work with your particular combination.
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