Technical New Engine lacks power SBC in the Studebaker-RESOLVED

Kinda looks like a stylized Thermoquad.

It appears to have Siamese secondaries, effectively making it a 3-barrel.

 

@gimpyshotrods I measured both on the push rod side and the valve side, I was supposed to have .450 on the valve side and had .3xx ?? now....is that a legitimate measurement when the lifter isn't pumped up? Bet you are glad it is me having the problem and not you

 

@1946caddy I bought both new lifters and cam. Five year warranty. I am using the org valve springs, the machine shop said the springs would be OK for a mild cam so I didn't replace them. I did use the ZZDP that was furnished with the kit as well as cam lube. I really didn't want to have this problem.

 

What spring were in it? How stiff?

 

I never liked measuring lift with rockers in place with hydraulic lifters. Pull rocker and measure at tip of push rod instead.

 

Can you fish the lifter out? How did it run when you broke in the cam?

 

I had a customer bring me a Ford PU with a 300 6cyl it just had the head done the truck idled fine put not get any rpm the valve springs were giving up. I replaced the springs and the motor ran fine. He ask the shop that did the head and they had checked them against each other and they were all the came height. that was all that was done. If you adjust the rocker until it starts to open the valve and then check lift it should be ok..

 

It could be that the lifters are not pumped up. Do you have an oil pump primer, or can you run it for a minute, and check again. That is way too little lift.

I have my own, extra special problem. Leaving my finger tip hanging over the edge of the intake of a 6-71 did bad things to it, and it may never be the same again.

 

Ray - no comment on the Demon other than it resembles a Carter TQ, which is one of my favorite 4-barrel carbs, if one has enough engine to support it.

Studebaker used Carter WCFB's on the 259 engine, and while slightly technologically inferior to the Carter AFB or the Holley 4150, or the newer spread-bore carbs; they are completely bullet-proof! Get an original Studebaker version, and the calibration is correct, unless the engine has been significantly modified. Even then, while calibration parts are not locally available, they are readily available mail order.

Studebaker WCFB's are not as common as those for Chevrolet, but they are not rare (like the Carter AFB's used on the Studebaker 289's).

The Carter AFB's used by Studebaker are quite rare and very expensive, but relatively easy to re-purpose a Carter AFB designed for a Pontiac to Studebaker calibrations (have done several, it can be done) if one is not into "numbers-matching".

The Holleys come with a totally different calibration than what the Studebaker wants. I am certain some of the Holley guru's here can re-purpose the Holley, but I am lazy. I like to start with something requiring less modification. I would personally look for a Studebaker WCFB.

Gimpy - interesting the Demon has Holley-style casting numbers.

Jon.

 

Are any of the press in rocker arm studs being pulled out?

 

Not that odd. The Demon brand is owned by Sentinel Partners.

They own: Hooker Headers, Weiand, Nitrous Oxide Systems, Flowtech Exhaust, Demon Carburetion, Earl's Performance Plumbing, Diablosport, MSD, Mr. Gasket, Accel, Superchips, Edge, Racepak, Mallory, Hays, Quicktime, Lakewood, and Holley.

"Thank you for shopping at UniCorp! 'There's Nowhere Else To Go!' "

 

thats a street demon carb

 

The first post said he broke the cam in and drove the car

 

Sorry I missed that.

 

Partial update, my neighbor/friend came up, we pulled the rocker off of both valves on number two and found that we have full lift (.300 ) off of the pushrod. I guess I will now check all of the rest. Makes me wonder if it's springs?? Note we checked for TDC compared to the damper and it is OK. Note I used the original crank, timing cover and damper as well as a cover that matches the damper TDC (so the outside ring hasn't moved in relation to the center)

 

" I took a plastic 55-gallon drum full of take-off Holleys to the swap meet last year, and sold them all, because the customers did not want them back. "

Around my area you can take a 55 gal. barrel of Holley's & a 55 gal. barrel of Eddy's to a swap meet and the Holley's will sell out every time over the Eddy's!

 

Have you checked for any rats nest in your intake manifold? (My apologies..trying to be funny)

 

Damn, that hurt just reading it!

 

@gimpyshotrods I think I will take more own problems over yours I can't imagine
I ran all of the push rods (after taking off the rockers) see picture for my set up. The cam is spec'd at .300" lift on the cam. most lobes were short anywhere from about .018 to .006 with a couple right on. I called the manufacturer and the tech guy told me to drain the oil and inspect for metal as well as cutting the filter to look for metal.

 

Dial indicator isn't very parallel to push rod.

 

the manufacturer and the tech guy told me to drain the oil and inspect for metal as well as cutting the filter to look for metal.

You’ve got to get a good measure and repeated consistency to make a definitive call on short lobes. 0.018 isn’t a whole bunch and easily in the trueness of your indicators set up.
And that 0.018 probably isn’t going to stop RPM gain past 2000.
Not to say that the cam isn’t going flat.

 

I see the problem, there's no oil in it!

While it's apart, split the overlap and see where the piston is.

 

What's with the grade 8 bolt's that are welded?

 

Intake looks funny as well. Has it been hogged out all the way to the outside so bolts will work?

 

There’s a whole lot more to the cam than lift. Since you have the dial indicator on it might as well put a degree wheel on it and see if the cam events are correct.


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@Johnny Gee I modified an early manifold to fit later heads. Holley part Number 90748 is a wedge so the center manifold bolts will tighten properly on the 14096217 head.

Those aren't grade 8, just grade five, they hold the "shelf" for the magnetic dial indicator base. A farmer fix

I followed the tech's suggestion, dumped the oil and drained the filter and cut it open. What PITA. I don't think there is a problem with the cam. The filter media looked the same inside and out.

 

They look gold in the other photo.

 

Did you try pulling the plug wires off one at a time to make sure all 8 cylinders are firing?

 

Borrow a valve spring pressure tester. My first bet would be weak springs. If you can't find one, give me an address and I'll let you use mine for shipping cost.
And, how did you set your valve lash?

 

Doesn’t matter the color, only three marks on the head


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