Just took a dropped I-beam with wishbone car out for a zip to breakfast yesterday. Over 65 down the highway and smooth as you could ever hope for. The MII won't give you any better, and the install will take a lot longer and more $$. And you sure don't need to box a 40 Ford frame unless you are installing a BBC.
I agree with Alchemy. My 40 rides nice at 65-70 with the stock front end, no drop axle and all new front end parts. Way cheaper then the M11 front end and less trouble. Keep it simple and ride!
You forgot about the steering column. You will need to do something with that in order to remove the body. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Yes, I'll add that to my list. Thanks! I'll have to do something with it during the build as the steering was a bit loose, maybe worn steering box gears. Also, I want to install a modern automatic transmission in it (is talking about that considered off-topic?) so will have to convert the column shifter to an automatic selector (or whatever it is called.) My best friend in high school had a 39 Ford coupe and we put a 324 with hydramatic from his wrecked 56 Olds in it. It didn't have a horn years ago. I'm going to have to do something about that, too.
Hook a simple rod from the column 2nd-high to the trans lever and count klicks. Drove my ‘53 F100 for years like that. [emoji2960] 318 & Torqueflite. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
Another Garage Tuesday! I started by taking off the right fender and then the grill. A couple bolts fought me, but everything came off okay. No swearing. Really!
I would just stack the parts up on the far side of the garage and at the end of the day move them to storage. Shock mounts were a bit of fun until I figured out how to wedge a wrench into place to hold the nut from moving. They had to come off before the fender could come off (or at least, come off easily.)
I then moved to the left side and took off the left fender. Again, it was a little slow on some bolts, but they all came out. And then, the left running board. I was using PB Blaster (penetrating oil) on some and the air wrench whenever it would fit. Lot of spots it didn't so I ended up doing a lot of wrenching. After this I went back to the right side and took off that running board. Notice in these pictures how clean the cement floor is? That's because after every part is removed I have to vacuum up the mouse turds and other debris. Even the running boards had seed shells and mouse turds raining down during removal! I started working on the right rear fender and ran into two bolts that wouldn't come out. Their nuts are in cages on the interior of the car so next week I'm going to start taking out the seats. That ought to be really awful!!
You can get to a bunch of the rear fender clip nuts from inside the trunk. I’d go ahead a squirt those and let them soak. But be prepared to break some off for sure.
Did that last time - 283 Chev powerpack. This time I'd like to put a Ford in the Ford. I know that is not as easy.
The back seat area was filled with junk, so I had to unload it to be able to spray penetrant on the rear fender clip nuts. And, of course, their was a mouse nest in that too... Turns out I had kept all of the adapter plates and mount that I had used to install my 283 all those years ago: I even had started making masonite door cards (I completely forgot about doing that!)
Even had one of the original door cards: Pretty rough, no? And here is the 4 barrel carb that was on my power-pack engine:
I also kept the door-cards for the front doors but they don't have the fabric on them anymore. I'm not sure if masonite is the correct material for making door cards, but that is what I did many years ago. The originals look like some kind of tar-paper board. I'll have to look around and find some butcher paper and make a pattern for you. Do you need them right away? Front and back?
Worse is them building homes inside the seat springs.....finally got pissed with mine and torched the last few threads of fabric....think I have a picture.
Thanks! No I don't need them right away. I am planning on doing the interior in my 39 this summer, so I have lots of time. As long as I have it done for The Old North State Invitational in late Sept ill be good. I have to make door panels, seat covers, carpet, headliner, you know everything..... I see no problem with Masonite, for the doors as long as it not too thick, ive done it before with Luan panels with good success.
I hope you will re-think the idea of using a Mustang II front suspension. The stock '40 suspension with a dropped axle and updated shocks and brakes will retain the good ride of the original car and the "nostalgia feeling" of it as well. Same goes for the rear suspension, driveline, transmission, etc. A nice swapped-in SBC like you already have will do the job just fine. Going with a Ford motor, automatic transmission, late rear end and Mustang II front suspension is trendy and all but the car won't be any better for all the work it entails. In fact, it will probably be worse. My opinion of course but I've had "modernized" fat fendered street rods before and in the real world they just aren't as great as everybody thinks they are. Good luck!
Them MII fronts end up with two and three ‘U’ joints in the steering shaft. [emoji2960] Gives me the heebie jeebies.
What would be a reasonable drop on a dropped front axle? It needs to be nice and low, but I can't have it scraping every time I pull out of my driveway. Sorry, but after a broken axle and a broken transmission yoke mount, the old stuff is coming out.
A 4" dropped axle with tube shocks and rebuilt '40 brakes will do you just fine. You'll still have to watch the grille "chin" all the time 'cuz it hangs 'way down there. A few leafs out of the rear spring and tube shocks will get your rear end down and improve the ride at the same time. A broken axle key and a separated transmission yoke are small stuff compared to all the changes you have planned in your head. And, unless yours is different from everybody else's you'll still have problems after you get your modernized street rod done. It's never quite as good in the real world as it is in your mind's eye. Good luck!
I have had 40’s with dropped axles in the past, have a project in the shop now, and I have a 40 with MII now. The MII coupe is a better cross country driver than the axle cars. That doesn’t mean you won’t find the beam axle fine because I thought my previous axle cars drove fine. The MII I have now is just a little better after a ten hour day on the road.
I’m doing 53-56 F100 drum brakes on mine now. Wagner-Lockheed sucks. Bendix type 2 self energizing rocks!
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