I have not posted as there really isn’t anything noteworthy to publish at the moment. Gathering parts for all of the engine gadgets I need for the ac, heater hose routing, power brake items, etc, etc. So most of my time is spent inspecting what can go where and what do I need to make that happen. But I am still having waaaay too much fun .....
Got some updates - I have been pecking away at things, ordering parts, and today I finished the honey-do. I have been working on the engine, assembling brackets and running hoses .... But as you can see the balancer is wrong - turns out the outer ring of the balancer needs to be shaved off so the pulleys can reside where they are supposed to. The mock up motor was a short water pump setup but they did this to remedy the problem ..... They flipped it around and installed it backwards. Not knowing this at the time I set all my pulleys and belts to that config and when I got to the motor I was going to use, things were just not lining up. I talked with my good friend Johnny C as he’s used 4.3s as a racer and in a couple Mod A projects as they fit so nice. He has had to trim the outer lip of the balancer just enough to have the inner most pulley sit right. That’s in the works .... So I moved on to the radiator setup and got it in a mock up stage .... I have 30” to work with from the firewall to the front grille crossmember and I was at 27.5” using a 1/2” fan spacer. I moved up to a 1.5 “ spacer and moved the radiator out a little for more room at the upper rad hose connection... But this config left me too far out. The frame I have is actually a 37 car frame and although there is very little difference the front radiator mount pads are different than the 40 which actually works perfectly for my setup. There are two holes on the mounts, one inner, and one further out. I initially used the two inners, thought I was too close, changed fan spacers, than went to the two outer holes which put me too far out. I then got somewhere inbeteeen the two which looks like it will work out. The concern now is that I need a sharp 90 degree bend at the upper rad connection to get by the compressor, go over the belts than down the the thermo housing ... I think that can be worked out but I need to reduce my upper hose size from 1.75” ID to 1.25”ID or go with a sbc straight up thermo housing unit which is 1.75”. The problem of the 90 degree bend still remains either way. I am leaning towards reducing the upper rad size right at the outlet with some plumbing pieces ..... the smaller the hose, the easier to make the bend in my way of thinking. I will keep you posted ......
Looks good. I’m going to put a 40 front cross member in my truck. It was a 6 cylinder and the early cross member caused similar issues for me. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ordered all of f my “keep cool” hoses and fittings after I mocked things up using some long lengths of heater hose. Now my cab is a 42-47 cab where the gas tank was under the seat. With that there’s a 3-4” hole I used to pass the hoses and wiring through. I started but cutting out an oversized circle out of some plate .... I moved the plate around underneath to get the best location, drilled two holes, screwed it in place and drilled the rest of the holes, then used some SS hardware to lock it all down ... frm here I used a step drill to drill the two bulkhead fittings (had some old ones floating around) and then the hole for the wiring pass through with an appropriate grommet ... A little paint, some insulation, and she is done. The tar impregnated sleeve will house the wiring needed up front ... Moving forward ....
Had a good day today - well, by my standards anyway! Figured out how I wanted to build the radiator support and worked a bit on the battery location ..... Battery location - I mounted the inner fender panel so I could see how the battery I will use is going to fit. First off, trr get e battery is a Honda unit with the same width and height of a regular battery but only 5” deep, giving me room to pull the plugs .... I used the two holes on the side of the frame rail before and after where the brake line goes over the rail. I am using a 37 truck frame but as far as I know, they are the same up to 40 and 41 pickups. Like my battery mount? Lol ! Worked on the battery box today (sorry, no pic) and will trim what’s necessary before making the mount. Then on to the radiator support ..... Working with the inner fender panel, grille, measurements from a couple of Hambers, I determined my radiator is about 5” further back than the stock unit. But, with the condenser, aux pusher fan (on a temperature switch) and the external 700r4 trans cooler all up front, it will not look too bad. I am thinking I might need to make some panels to guide the air up into the radiator area. We shall see .... I have also made plates for the external cooler to reside but I do not have a pic. I am happy with the results so far .......
Got more done on the radiator support - got the condenser mounted and the pusher fan is almost done .... The trans cooler will sit in front and then be routed into the lower radiator tank. According to what I have read, 700s want their fluid right about engine temp, optimum at 180. Cooling the fluid too much would be just as bad as it bent too hot. I also got my damper pulley back and all my ac hoses and fittings. The condenser and the pusher fan will be independent of the radiator - plan is I can remove the radiator without disturbing anything else .....
Well, it’s been a bit since my last post - my first go round on the radiator/condenser/fan setup was a failure. I had the wrong location of the inner fender panel and I was too high by 2” and too far forward by about the same. So, went back to the drawing board ...... I cut off an almost 2” portion off the lower part of the radiator support which then required some new mounting plates and some frame trimming .... I was low enough and back far enough but the upper rad neck was real close to the compressor and the lower neck to the front crossmember. The upper rad neck first - I changed fanbelts to bring the compressor further up and to the outside leaving me with enough room IF I had a nice sharp 90 degree hose. I ordered two Speedway 90 degree silicone hoses and one metal 90 degree piece. I also picked up a straight up thermo housing that made using the same diameter hose possible. The thermo housing 90 silicone hose worked fine after some trimming but the top rad neck outlet was just too tight for the other. Off to the auto parts store and started searching for the right 90 degree bend hose ..... I also changed the alt belt to again move me more to the outside but my support arm was then at the wrong angle and would not work. Combining another support arm with my original one and a little slice and dice later I the belts and alt support right. I did find a pretty tight 90 degree bend hose for the upper rad neck as well .... It’s close but I am hoping the radiator can lean forward just a bit to allow things to pass. Btw, searching for the right belts and hoses was an ordeal but the Advance Auto closest to me let me go to the back and do my own thing .... As for the lower hose it’s also tight .... Fortunately I had some ends still around from the 5-window project and a length of pipe to make that all work .... Yes, those hose ends are short and I do not have a bead at either end of that length of pipe and also at the upper 90. But, my really good friend Johnny C has a die he made up to put the bead in the end of the pipe. So he will do both ends of the lower pipe and the one by the upper radiator neck so all my hoses stay “home” once installed. Of course all of these changes did not go without problems - while shortening things the really nice, cheap ($20), swap meet condenser got screwed up. I was able to find another but it is about 1.5” wider forcing me to modify the mounts on one side. So - lessons learned - going with a center upper rad neck would have made things so much easier and the condenser screw up, well, I can be a bit clumsy at times ...... grrrrrrr! On to the battery box ...
For the battery box I started with an old Mr 40s frame rail mount box with the intent of using some be of the Honda batteries - same width and height but only 5” deep, perfect for an engine compartment mounting. I also had an old 40-48 (?) Ford battery tray that was not specifically for the 40 pickup but the legs could be used ... First, I trimmed back the Mr 40s box .... .... and welded in a front plate. I cut the legs off of the old battery tray and noticed one leg was 3/4” shorter than the other. I had already determined a leg height of 5 3/8” - using ng some 3:4” heavy bar I made both legs the same height .... I used some C channel to use as temporary shoes for the legs and began the process of whittling the legs down until I had them right .... My old Honda Accord battery served as a mock up - I will have to reverse the posts moving the positive post towards the firewall. This config is too close for comfort .... The pic above is about where the inner fender panel will reside. Final pick is with the belt I will use as a hold down ... The C channel will be replaced with flat heavy plate, bolted down, and the threaded post on the firewall just behind the battery will be used to help hold things in place. I have a bunch of finishing work to do but I am happy with the result. For the actual battery, there are just two choices in my opinion. Batteries plus has a 3yr warranted Duracell battery with 800 cca and 640 normally - not bad. There’s also the Walmart Maxxim Ever Start unit with a 3yr replacement and an additional two year prorated. I have it in my DD now for about 15 months. rated at 615 cca and 500 normally. I know anything either than one of these has barely a life expectancy of 3 years and the cranking power is in the toilet (the Autocraft for mock up is one of those). Presently I am leaning towards the Duracell .... Chipping away at it .....
Check most new cars have a nice red plastic cap that goes over the positive post a little insurance with the hood going to be that close.
While waiting for a few things to come in I have been doing a major garage redo for room to pull the bed off the truck. Right now it has been a repository for all of the cardboard boxes I have been receiving parts in, the front fenders, and other large items. I also rec’d good news that my engine startup will happen sooner rather than later. Working on finishing up things on the motor in preparation to pull it and bring it down to my friends machine shop ..... I did receive my pipes that were dimpled to hold the hoses on and they look and worked out The upper hose sits in there perfect, no problems ..... the lower hose looks good as well .... Again, tight but there is clearance so that’s great. Thank you Johnny C! And just for a laugh, I have not been able to find a nice, old, air cleaner as of yet so here’s my temporary fix ..... Until I find a nice old oil bath unit I can slice and dice or something else that suits me, this will have to do! Lol!
Been doing several things - painted the rad, condenser, e rental tranny cooler, mounted the ps pump after I straightened out the mount. The mock motor fell over onto the pump bracket and bent it a bit. All fixed now. I have also cleaned out the garage a bit getting ready to pull the motor as it’s going next week for the engine startup. Installed a few hoses, plugged a few holes - engine is ready to be pulled really. Today I tackled the exhaust. I had pieces of the original exhaust pipe and trimmed them down ..... The worked perfect with the pipe kit I bought and I used 45 degree bent pipe from each piece as the manifolds go out at a 45 degree angle .... Passenger side needed a short extension and I came out under the frame .... Lousy pics but it’s a straight shot back now Driver side was more problematic. The power brake booster is smack in the middle of where that pipe should run. My only option was to go around on the outside just under the frame rail ..... Presently I am undecided whether to continue under the frame or pop up back inside the frame rails. I used a 45 degree bend, extended it about 4” and reduced two more 45s to about 30 degrees make the go around work. The runnng boards will cover them pretty well save for a full on side shot. I have about 4” clearance give or take around the booster and I will wrap the section of pipe around the booster with header wrap. Presently my goal is to get past the cab and finish things up once the bed is off. I have to finish welding up what I have done now and looking to pull the motor Mon-Tues timeframe. Weather will play a factor in all of this ......
I have been busy, just have not posted. Motor is out and I began finalizing the ps box mount. It’s actually a 40 Ford mount with an added tab up front so the ps box can be at an angle. I made two access holes in the frame to get to two of the ps box mounting bolts and the last one is under the frame rail. The 40 mount is now bolted into the frame and can be removed. Once in this is what I had .... Several years ago when I started this project, the pitman arm ran into the center link. So, I made a modified center link to accommodate the long pitman arm. This time around I did not like that. So, I shortened the pitman arm by one inch and that gave me enough room for things to pass properly ... I needed to wait for the center link to come in so I started working on my running boards for a change of pace. The boards were cobbled together years ago as, at the time, the only repro boards were the smooth ones and I did not like them. Once I got them out and inspected, I started with the easier and less “cobbled” driver side. I pounded out the few dings it had, wire wheeled it down, put Rustoleum rusty metal primer underneath and self etching primer on the top side...... It came out pretty nice put the passenger side is a lot worse. I am working on patching it up some more and I think an English wheel will be needed as well on the outer side. I do have it cleaned off and about where it needs to be but it will need a bit more time. I also worked on the headlight buckets, a Hershey find about 6 years ago. I got the adjustment and rings screws to work with Kroil and encapsulated the inside rust with some Rustoleum black rust encapsulator, and used rusty metal primer on the outside.I ordered new hl trim rings and screws. The headlight doors themselves are 40 Standard items and I will use the domed commercial marker lights with running and signals. Color for the headlight doors I have not yet decided on. They may be body color or something not shiny but more cast looking like the grille sides. We will see .... No, the motor has not gone to the shop yet - maybe tomorrow. But, I have enough to keep me busy .....
@TomT I am also working on my 41 boards. Rough seems to be the norm in running boards. Enjoying your work.
Thank you - yeah, the old adage of really earning something has never been so true than when building a car or truck, especially when you try and use original tin. Not that I am a great tin “restorer” by any means, but I will try and resurrect original tin in my builds. As for my running boards, they had Swiss cheese beat by a mile! Lol!
Nice, Tom. My boards look like they rubbed against many parking lot steel and concrete posts. Did you have to restore the radius on the out side edge?
Thanks! The passenger side is the worst one - that one may need an English wheel ...... driver side was near enough for me .....
So, I finished the headlight buckets once I got the trim rings and screws, mounted the proportioning valve, installed the lines from the mc, to the res check valve, to the prop valve, started on the rear brake line, and the front brake lines. As I was tapping the steering rod I snapped the tap off in the rod, could not retrieve it, so I just got the new rod, shortened it, tapped it, and it is now installed ..... Steering box is centered aid tie in is set. The running boards are now complete. I tried the Rustoleum version that is a spray on but it had little or no texture. I needed texture to hide the large amount of pitting the boards had. When U went on line to find some textured bed liner I found that Herculaneum seemed to have the most texture. I just ordered the quart with no rollers or brushes. This stuff is very textured and I applied it with a mini rat style roller of medium nap. You don’t shake the fan to mix it but stir it, keeping the particles that give it texture of n the mix. I poured a bit in a paint tray and filleted it on. I like this stuff because the texture is so rich and meaty. I kept stirring and spreading the texture material and here is the result .... You cannot tell where the repairs were made, where the pits are, nothing - these could have been the worst boards or the best and you would never know. Joe get it wears it wears as I can always re-coat them. I am moving forward ......
Discovered a problem last night - the cab wood was modified and installed wrong. Long story short, the cab is 1/2” plus too high. I jacked the cab up off the frame and removed the wood. The front piece was 10” too far forward causing the other mounts s to be shimmed you to compensate. Here is one of the shins removed.... Since things were modified and I evade in spots .I ordered a new wood kit. Although I have done a ton of welding underneath, only two spots will need to be cut and remade. That’s at least what I can see now. h well, that’s hot rodding, right? Ya make mistakes and you have to fix them .....
Took a little break from the truck and did some shop work. I have been slowly converting to LED lighting as my fluorescents die off. I bought the correct ends to convert the 4 double tubed 4’ fluorescent fixtures and a box of 4’ leds as well as single tube leds from HF. I have converted 2 of the 4 and the downstairs lighting is almost all leds now. The difference is amazing ..., One of my converted double fluorescent ceiling fixtures on the left which replaced an identical gang of 4 4’ fluorescent tubes on the right. Less tubes but more light. I am liking it so far. I also put up a railing in the mezzanine of my garage. I had a 28 Pickup body and the old rusty crusty 32 5- window body up there. Now they both are gone, the railing went up for safety sake ... And I also cleaned out a lot of scrap steel to a buddy of mine who will cull through and save what he would like (he has done a lot of favors for me over the years) just to clear out stuff I will not be using or is too far gone to be used ..... Amazing what you can collect and I will not even go into the stuff I found that I forgot I even had which will all go to Fall Carlisle if it happens.... After all of that and a full and complete garage cleanup, I got my cab wood late today so I will be back at it tomorrow....
I have been busy reorganizing,throwing out and selling for a few weeks now between projects. Hopefully the bright white walls and LED lighting, tool reorganization and knowing where stuff is will make the next project easier. Besides a little break from the normal build thrash is a good thing. Nice work on the lights Tom T.
So I started on the cab wood today - with no lift it’s up and down off the floor! But, I have made good progress ... First, I am using a later 42-47 cab so some mods must be made to clear certain things and changes made for the gas tank under the seat ..... This is the rear most mount and the large cutouts are for the lowered floor pan for the gas tank ... I used a cutoff wheel, hand saw, belt sander and anything I had to make the cutouts but they work .... The front most piece just needed a cutout for the 1x2 heavy wall I installed underneath to support the modified “center X” area .... You can see the differences from the 40-41 configuration are all in all not major ..... After some additional mods to the wood, it is in .... Right now the back most bolts and the two front bolts just before the floor kick up are flush to the floor. The center is not for some reason so that’s for tomorrow and I may not have the floor to to cab wood in the center area. And, because of the work done to the floor of the cab, I also still have a small gap where the cowl bolts are .... But I am thinking the cab height is determined by the rear most bolts and the two bolts just before the kickup in the floor so install of the running boards with the fenders should not be a problem. The height of the cab is determined and the front fenders do not bolt to the cowl except via the two right angle brackets used at the back most upper inner fender panel bolt. All other bolts holding the fenders are in the running boards. Good day in the shop today - well, for me anyway!
This past Sunday I was back to the point I was when I discovered the cab wood was installed incorrectly. Yesterday I tied in the front lateral support for the center of the modified center “X” to the back. I am not the best welder but cleaning metal to then weld on your back is not something I want to do again anytime soon! So, with the hat channel support back in at the rear of the cab, the rear center support is angling back to the frame rails. Using 1x2 heavy wall again, I used a short piece to tie the hat channel to the top of the frame as it crossed under using a 3/16” flat piece to spread the load using two existing and created 3 more holes in the top of the frame to roset (spelling?) weld the frame rail to the flat piece. Now, from the short piece I ran 1x2 heavy wall up to the front lateral support and after checking for square, welded them together .... I did all of this, and perhaps some future boxing plate in spots, to strengthen that center section and maintain complete clearance for the driveshaft. Pics tell the tale better than I and my welding is better but not that good .... yet ..... Today I did a few more weld spots, cleaned off the rear rails and the new support, then primed any bare or rusty metal with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. Initially I brushed it on and then sprayed the areas with the spray bomb version that were tough to get into. Tomorrow I will paint the entire front and under the cab frame portions nlack. I am only doing from the front of the frame to the rear of the cab right now. Once I remove the bed I can work on the back end of the frame while standing up!
The Jalopy Journal
