Technical ***July 2020 Banger Meet Thread - Four Is A Good Number***

I'm running a open drive shaft
Useing a 46? Front wish bone the one that has the wered dog leg at the big end to locate the rear. Need to build a torque rod mounted on the top of the bango but so far no prob

 

Good to know thanks

 

Chad,
good question. Stock "A" gravity/splash system was designed for sub 3k revs. Remember, this was some time ago. Back in 1912 ish time frame racing motors had pressurized oiling systems and still only about 3k revs.
Gravity fed mains can be converted to pressure feed and increase the life immensely. The splash rods can survive pretty well if the oil is filtered properly.
The problem I see is that drilling an "A" crank for feeding the rods removes quite a bit of material from the journal.
This, IMHO will be the weak link if you try to rev the motor too high.

Show us some pictures, especially the head chambers, John

 

Ok, that helps a bit for sure. We will be pressurizing the mains, and are planning an external pump (modified big block Mopar with adjustable pressure relief valve). I am not planning on drilling the crank, as I agree, it creates a stress point. I have some ideas that a few of us have bounced around for helping the rod oiling, but still maintain splash.

Here is the Fronty, fresh back from the machine shop last week. It was a tricky deal to make it work again, you cant just go and put valve seats in it. The guides had about half almost worn through the sidewall on the top. Pretty stoked he could save it for me, otherwise it would have been a VERY expensive paperweight. Chambers need to be remeasured after all the work, but are approx 243cc as last measured.

 

I just stopped by Brookville roadster and picked up a 1 piece hood top and a 32 grill shell. I snagged one without any holes drilled in it. I will post some pics when I get started installing it

 

Black flagged by the long arm of the Straw..or should I say law .Hell yeah,put me down for the hill climb crew,you got my email..
Wont be the first time my big mouth got me into something..

 

Do you have a T, S, or R head ?

 

Compare the Model "A" 1928 40 HP and the Miller 91 of '26-29
early 150HP @7k rpm, later 200HP @8k rpm.
The light than burns twice as bright burns half as long.
Incredible, late '20's, crude gas and benzine, oil somewhat refined and a design concept from 1912.
Not half bad, John

 

I,m sorry I forgot to mention, it is a "T" head. That is why I am having custom pistons made to bump the compression up. I have been talking with a hill climber out of Colorado that also runs a "T" head, he was kind enough to give me the the info on his pistons so I could get some made, albeit at a lower compression ratio for me (he just upped his to 9 to 1).

 

Looks great. I feel the extra work that goes into a T-5 conversion is all worth it.

 

Something like this........pistons are 1/2" above the deck.....6.5 to 1 comp ratio. Gary

 

That's some pop-up!

 

thats the way they are , but be glad the head is recessed ............ looks really cool

 

Thanks for volunteering! I might make you CHIEF SPORT COUPE INSPECTOR! Keep you fingers crossed that the Governor and City of Auburn let this fantastic event happen. See you on September 19 at the Nor-Cal FAST Hill Climb

 

1/2 inch of pop up. Too much for the head I'm using on my B. Think these are for an original Miller OHV.

Sent from my SM-A320FL using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

That would be a lonely job...

 

Below is the custom Ross pistons that have been made for a Frontenac and other similar chamber heads. I am not sure if his pic is of the 7.5 to 1 or his newer 9.5 to 1 version. He runs the same head that I do, and our chambers CC to be similar size.

But I was proposed an offer on his 7.5 to 1 pistons today. I am not sure if I want to go that high. But it would save me a few hundred dollars...and definitely add some pop.

Any thoughts on that using his old barely used pistons? My cam is a Stipe copy of the Laurel Roof cam, 196 / 205 @.050 / 117 LSA / .310 cam lift (about .420 at the valve).

 

If you decide to sell, pm me the specifics.
Thanks!
Bill

 

Got the valvetrain done in the p/up last night. What a pain in the back! If I had known what a pain working over the fenders was I would have just pulled the engine...
-On a less-whiney note, probably picked up a half-point of compression from the thickness of the replacement valve heads...
How thick does a valve head really need to be above the seat on these engines? The stock ford valves I've pulled out are nice, light, streamlined things. But the stems are usually really worn, hence the need for the valve job...

 

Nice looking head. I picked up a RAJO BR head that just took a trip thru and am debating on what to install it on because of brakes on a T.
As for your oil question.
I run a couple of A/B engines that are pressure/dipper set ups. I have modified the stock oil pump for pressure and volume. Pressure to the mains I limit to 35 psig, partially as not to overwhelm a rear main seal. I've experimented with different locations to place the relief from the pump because you want the volume to keep the dipper trays full. That thrashing rod/crank assembly will empty the tray pretty fast I suspect. I don't know where the place to relieve the oil would be on a T but I believe it should be included in the thought process.
My inserted, pressure/dipper A engine has upwards of 25k miles on it and no problems with rod bearings and I give it no slack. I did experience problems on an engine when I broke/cracked a front pulley that scooped out the front seal and it wound up in the pump screen and then oil starved the dipper tray. That reinforced the need to keep the tray full. Dipper is not the way to go if you are going to have sustained high RPMS like 'Ol Dawg, but if you get on it for short bursts, no problems. Besides it doesn't make sense to drill an A crank which you realize. What did it have to be turned to for the T engine?

 

Yes, no sustained high speed runs, just street use with short bursts.

I have a Mopar big block (383 /440) oil pump (already external mounted on stock engines) I intended to use, driven off the front of the generator gear. I trimmed the oil filter head off it and plan to tap the ports for fittings. It has a relieve valve built in, and I plan to install an adjustable relief valve setup that Milidon makes.

Run a line from the pump to a bulkhead fitting in the side of the block, then start branching off to feed the mains and rods dips. Right now I am think something along the lines of a Chevy setup with discharge tubes to fill deeper dip trays.

By the way, my thoughts on restricting led me back to when I had an off topic car with a turbo retro-fitted. The trick then for the oil feed was to tap the fitting to accept a Holley carb jet, thus restricting and adjustable. I figured I may need to apply that to the rear main to control the oil to not overwhelm it as you have mentioned.

 

The meat on the valve head makes it more stable and handles heat better..ford valves like a pizza cutter

 

I'm not sure yet. I'll have a think about it!

 

Downdraft intake arrived earlier this week and I just had to take a break from lapping the valves and do a testfit.
I like the simple look without fins and manufacturers name.

 

My Mercury Speedster has a Fronty S head with 6.5 to 1 pop ups, Stipe Laurel/Roof cam, triple front plate (water pump, oil pump, and distributor), and a Winfield H side draft carb. Other than a 12 volt system and DSM ignition almost all parts are 1925 or earlier.

 

My other Mercury project has been delayed till fall.

 

First off @25mercury , that is awesome!

I have some questions:
I see you are running head studs...where did you source them from?
I see a valve cover gasket, are these available or did you make your own?
How do you like the Roof cam? Plenty of go?
Oil Pump---oiling just the mains or pressurized rods also? Do you have a deep oil pan?

Les Shubert 5 Main Block? AND a Fronty SOHC!?

 

The head studs are Model A, the 2 long studs at the front of the Model A head are perfect length for Fronty single port heads. I cut my own valve cover gasket from a roll of cork. You have to grind the block a bit to fit in the Roof cam. The cam likes a light car and low rear end gearing, I might play with some offset cam dowels in the future. The engine has pressure oil to the mains and splash to the rods with a deep aluminum oil sump. My black Mercury gets the SOHC Fronty and the 5 main block made by Les Schubert. It will get a flathead V8 transmission.

 

25mercury : Mike that engine for the Black Mercury is PURE BANGER PORN!!!