Its coming along great. Keeping things traditional do you still need to compliance this as a hot rod or do you get away without it?
At GE they used #12- fine thread brass slotted screws, they discontinued the product and asked if I wanted the rest of them... couple lbs. … few $ per lbs. … I gave bags of 50 or so to every model A guy I knew...some I didn't … lasted about 5 years before I ran out... I stumble on one now and then in the nut, bolt, washer box... . I run into the same screw size problem with the tank to firewall screws... more than half of them snap off about 1.5 turns out... drill and tap to 1/4"-20...
It’s basically a stock 1932 chassis with a hydraulic brake upgrade but yeah it will get an inspection.
Just got a bag of 20 #12-24 screws thru Amazon. Stainless with Phillips heads. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
"Just got a bag of 20 #12-24 screws thru Amazon. Stainless with Phillips heads." Exactly. Should be no problem getting any size needed with this internet thing, despite the local hardware store not stocking uncommon sizes. I like to keep the original size and style fasteners as much as possible on machinery and cars. Even if they are Whitworth!
Not a lot of progress lately. My son and I have finished off his motorcycle build and I’ve been working on some yard projects for my wife. I’ve also been working a lot of different shifts in my work’s busy season In saying that I have welded in the sub rails and am making some templates for the wheel wells.
Is that piece that mates the Steadfast rail to the rear crossmember part of the "Kit" or something you had to fab yourself? it all looks nice. Bob
Nice job! Good seeing a youngster helping out, too. Important for them to learn things can be fixed or made from scratch.
What a great thread! Nice work all around and I like to see the children involved. When do you chop the top?
Talking with a friend he told me to check if the tops of the quarters had rolled in before welding the rear braces. Putting the deck lid on showed the right hand side had and was touching. So a little (hand) pressure with a scissor jack moved it back to where it needed to be.
Every time I see guys doing all this welding on subrails, I get nervous about decklid fit. A current project I'm working on had been cracked and welded at the corners of the decklid many times by previous owners. Then a total floor and subrail replacement by us. As you can imagine, the decklid wouldn't fit anymore. I actually cut a sliver from the top of the quarter and pushed the trough and bead outward to make room. It was way beyond just pushing it up with a jack. I think checking/fitting doors and decklids at all parts of the fab process is very important.
I have the same problem on a Coupe I’m working on at the moment, both sides. it is something I notice on a lot of As and appears to be quite common. I will try your fix but I’m seeing some slicing and dicing in my future. Great build by the way.
Checking with the opening panels is definitely important. One thing to remember while doing this is how well or not those panels fitted up in the first place. My doors always sat high at the rear if checking at the belt line. That’s something else I’ll fix while I’m at it.
Saturday I installed the rivets in the rear of the body and got some primer on everything. After lunch I put some filler on the repairs.
Today I sanded the filler back on the 4 main patch panels. My wife took this photo as I was sweeping up and trying to blow the rest of the dust outside.
"A Plus Job @Wardog...Mickey was quite the entertainer but Bodywork wasn't his Cup of Cheese... Cheers Mate...Walt... Big Thumbs Up from Stogy too...
The Jalopy Journal
