Technical Ford 260CI Flexplate

Something does not look correct in the first and second picture. Could be shadow but this may be the issue. This weekend can you put a dial indicator on it and check the run out? ENOUGH for today. Get your pacemaker settled down.

 

I don't have a dial indicator,
So I'm going to the opposite side and take some more pics, maybe we can compare to the others.
I know its boot leg buts it's all I can do at this time. Thanks for putting with me you guys.

 

One more, just a shit storm getting in there.

 

Not sure if this is your problem, but the C4 has a drain plug on the torque converter & it pokes through a hole in drive plate. If it is in the wrong position it could miss the hole & will bend the drive plate. Just a thought as it did happen to me once.

 

It does not look like the left side is flush bit the right side is. When running can you see a wobble in the lower pulley?

 

I'm going to call it quits now
but , how can I remedy that?

 

If it does indeed wobble when running it is not properly seat due to either rust or paint. Remove the pulley, clean the area and reinstall.

 

I'm going to do that tomorrow.
Today I'm going to try and stuff 8 spark plugs into little tiny spaces.

 

Did a compression test.
1- 155 2-155 3-154 4- 154 5- 153 6- 154 7- 153 8- 154
Installed new plugs, points, condenser, cap and new wires.
The old plugs looked real good. It had two bad plug wires.
The vibration is still there, not as bad but still there.
My brother hopefully will be over today to get underneath and
take off the crank pulley.

 

All of those numbers while not optimum are within range and fairly equal. Thanks for the update and let us know about the pulley.

 

We pulled off the crank pulley today.
We ran the car briefly and it still vibrates, actually the whole car shakes not violently, kinda like its in
slow motion, in some it looks good, in others it doesn't look good. Motor and trans mount look good.

 

I had the same vibration in the 283 Chevy in my roadster, same rpm range. Turns out it had a flex plate for a 400 SBC with a nice big weight on one side that it didn’t need.
Ford small blocks have always been screwy with weight/no weight, 28 oz/50 oz. I’ll bet it has the wrong flexplate / weight, but since someone put this unknown combination together it’s hard to know what it should have. It may take some trial and error.
How about some photos showing the whole front of the pulley and of the damper too. Any lumps or bumps that may make it sensitive to clocking?


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Just for information, I picked up a 79 Ranchero 351m/c4 back in 95 that had the same type vibration. I ckd it out and saw it had the wrong flexplate in it. Since I didn't drive it very much I never bothered to fix it. Cruisin' the hamb one day I ran across a post that described the same problem and a fix for it. Guy said to add 2, 3/8 flat washers on the 2 converter studs 180* from the weight on the flex plate. I tried that and it cured 95% of the vibration. Fast forward to a few years ago I went thru the engine and had it balanced so no worries about a vibration from there anymore.

 

So far no lumps or bumps, ran the car without pulley and still vibrates.
I will take some more pics after work today.

I'm starting lean in that direction flex plate or/and converter.

 

This is the best I can do right now. I don't want to pull the fan and radiator if not necessary.

 

Well, it is a 1962 pulley, and an early damper, so it should be the correct one for a 260.

Time to start looking at the other end of the engine.

 

My brother just came by and put his dial indicator on the pulley (back) and the damper.
They are round and not causing the issue. Like you said it's time to go to the back of the motor. I'm thinking flex plate or torque converter, maybe both. I'm also concerned if its a flex plate as they are practically non existent.

 

I think that the flexplate from an early 289 will work. It has the same part number, but a different prefix (year code) and suffix, but still has the 160 tooth count.

 

If your existing flex plate isn’t damaged you should be able to have it balanced to the correct 260 specs and re-use it. Look it over very carefully for cracks, worn holes and run-out. Hang in there, you’ll find it.


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Due to my limitations I'm going to find a seasoned/old school guy in my area that can figure it out for me. If I don't do anything now, then It will just sit and collect dust.
I want to thank all you guys that have helped me out with this and I will keep you up to date.
I'm determined to get it to someone before the week is over.

 

Captain,
Maybe I get too involved with the personal issues of the posters. I truly care for the posters I respond too and I sincerely want things to work out.
In this vein, here’s my suggestions.

1. Sell the car and use the money to go to another car with no issues that you can’t handle.
2. Keep the car and remove the mismatched engine transmission combo. Get away from the five bolt stuff and find a good later model 6 bolt 289/302/5.0 combo with a C4.
You may can find something fairly reasonable as many old Mustangs and such are being “Restomodded” and good stock engines and transmissions are being pulled out.

The problem with #2 is a lot like your original issue. That issue being someone to do the swap that’s reputable.
3. This is more of a repeat.....
If I kept that car, the 260 and “that” C4 would have to go.

 

#1 is kinda drastic, like throwing the baby out with the bathwater. Once the transmission is out it shouldn't be that hard to find the issue. Also the 260 isn't a bad little engine and going by his spark plugs and compression readings he's got a good runner.

 

No, I appreciate your kind words and didn't intend to turn this into a personal issue.
I still enjoy working on cars and will keep doing it as long as possible.
I adapt, and if something, (in this case) that I cannot do myself then I have no
problem having someone else take a look, if it's the last resort.

I like this little Ranchero alot and have manage to rebuild the front end from bottom to top, complete front
and rear brakes, wiring issues and other little fun tasks. I'm not giving up now.
I 'am going to keep it and deal with the good and the shit storms.
It wouldn't be normal if everything went right all the time. I enjoy figuring out as much as I can and
when it's fixed that is my reward. Your a good guy and I thank you for your concern.

 

I took the car to a local transmission guy on Friday.
Upon removal of the inspection plate he found that the weight bar
on the flex plate has been rubbing on something, wore down the weight in
one spot pretty good.

So he is going to pull the trans next week and let me know
what damage it has caused.
He sent me some pics ,but I cannot upload from my phone.

We will see what happens from here.

 

have a 60 tooth flex plate in San Diego.... pm if need

 

A couple of crude pics, doesn't look good.

 

Thank you, I will know more probably tomorrow

 

Found additional 100 teeth on keyboard

if this helps flex plate stamped "FOR C4AE-6375A-ASSY"
single major weight is 0.455" thick and quick calc by volume as 7.3 oz . Also 4 OEM minor weights
to adjust for weld attachments

Your weight picture looks quite thin and does look to be reduced on outer radius

 

I know almost looks like it was re-done, who know's will see what he says.
I told the guy after he pulls the trans to call me with a ford part # on the flex plate and a count on the teeth. Will then know if it's a 157 or 160 tooth flexplate

 

I have seen this before. The early automatic flywheel have one hole for the converter drain plug . If , when the transmission was bolted to the engine, the drain plug was not ligned up with the hole, they distorted the flex plate, causing the vibration. And no, not Good Vibrations like the Beach Boys sang about!!! Take care of that heart. Takes a long time to get back to where you were. Ask me how I know