Technical ***August 2020 Banger Meet Thread - More of the Same***

Yep I had the Mitchell synchro gearbox and Mitchell over-drive in the "A" pickup that I sold. Loved them both. They made for a good combination.

 

If I’m seeing correctly, when I enlarge the pic,isn’t the timing mark visible just to the right of the keyway?

 

Maybe a bit better picture, is it that small circular thing that is my timing mark?

 

Yes that's it. You can see it in railcar's picture

 

yeppers you got it now

 

Great, thanks for helping a banger newbie.

 

in MHO this is one of the best drivers ever . dirty windsheild , no pitting , need track position .......
the best DIY ....................

 

Thanks brother,reckon im going that way..it makes life easy,plug and play..thinking 3.54 rear too,its a tad above the 3.78,the engine will pull it no problem and will give me a tad more torque band on the highway

 

Got the marks on the crank and cam lined up and the camshaft went in.
Also installed the timing gear cover, even remembered to install the spring and plunger for the camshaft.
Cover got a new "turd-style" seal that's been soaking in oil and just to be safe I brushed some Permatex on the paper gasket between the block and cover, hopefully it won't be leaking to much.





On to the valves during the next week.

 

In the bird's eye view, the dipper looks nubbed off and it made me think of the rods in my roadster. The dippers were all short, one was maybe only 1/4" long. No idea why. I couldn't find a measurement for just the dippers. In pictures of new rods, they appear substantially longer. Does anyone have an unmolested one to measure?

 

So,
I have the Mitchell transmission in the Cabriolet behind a Flathead A engine and the Mitchell OD.
It has syncro second and third. I got the one with the longer split between 1st and 2nd than stock.
I put a V8 clutch assy at the same time.
There is a lot that I like about it but some, not so much. I've not had any issues with the OD assy
The transmission pops out of gear under deceleration
You can feel the gear slack in the shifter....you know, moves it back and forth, forward and backwards as you change the thrust direction moving the right pedal.
I got the box straight from Mitchell. You send them the housing, front bearing retainer and shift tower, less the shifter.
I picked a primo one to send to them.
I am sure I got someones worn one back. I am sure that the movement has to do with internal wear that was overlooked or dismissed.
I complained and I was told that the reason that it pops out of gear is that they install bushings in the tower for the shift rail and they will have a flashing on them and to take the shifter out and clean that up.
Well if that is a known problem, for the coin these cost, don't allow it to be a customer problem. Correct it while you have it.
About 8 months after I get the transmission, I get a demand letter from them stating they never received my core and I needed to square up with them.
I will not purchase another. I hope your experience is different.
You asked....can you say T-5

 

Does this help?

I want to believe this is unmolested

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Could the dipper length difference be related to the diameter of the journal?
If dip tray is X from pan rail the shorter dipper on B motor is due to increased diameter of bearing
J

 

Yes I got thinking about that after I posted the A rod. Not much gets past John, lucky to have him here.
Don't have B rods to compare at the moment

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I forgot I have this photo, kind of hard to tell

Sent from my XT1585 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thanks,I had heard about other shifting problems,the cover has to be installed dead on,made me wonder why they didn't dowel the cover..I've got four real nice A transmissions might just stand pat with the A..don't want to T5 since I already have the mitchell OD..

 

Thanks you guys, I appreciate the different looks. It's an "A". I probably wouldn't have thought much about it except #2 was noticeably shorter. The babitt didn't show any sign of lack of oil and I didn't feel comfortable heating the cap enough to build it up with braze so I just keep it full and run it. I don't buzz the hell out of it EVERY shift, so...

 

I am running a T-5 and love it. I would like to run a mitchell OD on my stock roadster. One thing I have always wondered how much of an advantage is it to have the Syncro transmission. I have driven a stock one many miles and have never had any trouble shifting the thing. I understand the advantage of having a higher second gear ratio. The gap between 2nd and third is huge on a stock transmission and that can use some improvement. Other than the difference in the second gear ratio is there any other advantage to them? I am considering changing my roadster around to make it a bit better on the highway. I figured the OD unit will be the only change I need.

 

I'd never teach the wife to shift a non syncro transmission and the gear split is really nice especially when paired with the overdrive

 

So, what is the plan

 

Hi all, long time lurker first time poster to the banger threads, I thought I'd throw up some photos and little bit of footage of my warmed up banger I've recently completed for my town sedan, I should start a build thread for it but this will do for now, I built it using lot of info from these threads and alot of other research, its an early a 5 cam bearing block that I ported, it's got straight valves and single piece guides, hardenedvalve seats, I modified the oil pump and oil gallery for improved oiling, as well as internal drain back/crankcase vent in the valve chamber, full flow oil filter, I match weighted the rods and pistons, it has a reground b cam with .290" lift and 210° exhaust and 215° intake, adjust lifters i had reface that my grandfather made in the 90s when I was a little kid, fsi electronic distributor, cast iron lionspeed head, a repop burns intake a local guy here in aus makes, a 97, amd a 4 into header i made with my dad (its really hard to make a header fit a right hand drive model a especially if it has an oil filter) it feels like a really strong engine but I definitely need a fuel pump and some taller rear gears as the car currently has 4.11s

A video not long after I got it running


After it was running better and had an exhaust


First drive

 

Nothing on that one,a stocker I built for a friend.. has a decent shot of dipper length. ..which I don't think is important,those little cups pick up alot of oil at 2000 passes a minute,more than the bearing uses..its a very effective method under 4k or so..

 

A bit hard to get a exact measurement of the dipper but mine are around 1/4" or just a tiny bit longer.

 

I recently installed a 5:5-1 high compression head and was thinking about removing the muffler and running stright pipes to reduce back pressure and maybe gain a little more power. Is it worth trying or will it be too loud? I am still using the stock manifold. Thanks.

 

I've got a 26% OD with a 3.78 rear.I like driving the stock trans,you have to actually pay attention. Im considering a 3.54 set of gears,it drops 150 rpm at a given speed,enough to move the torque band,figures to be valuable on the highway..

 

When Harold Hicks was brought in to up the engine horsepower in 1927 one of the things he did was redesign the exhaust manifold, he did an excellent job. Use a flow through resonator and straight pipe,yields almost as much as a header

 

Star- that's a pretty sweet see-dan you got there! If it were me, I'd leave the 4.11's and put a T5 in it and just drive the hell out of it!

 

Steves 46- I followed Purdy Swoft's idea and cut the ends out of the old re-pro muffler on my ccpu-wacked the baffles out, and sewed it back together. Made a very noticeable difference in power and mileage! A little difference in sound at idle and going down the road but barely noticeable. Cheap and easy...

 

Kinda a little pissed my girl didn't pop off for a little movement this week end.....got some spark/fuel....stay "tuned "....