Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

I can’t take credit; I borrowed them from a friend ( V8 Bob ) . They work very well and they bolted to the exhaust ports. I’m not a big Harbor Freight fan, but that tilt bar also works well.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

I'll be moving a little backwards for a while; There is an unsatisfactory frame repair on the passenger side forward of the X member. I didn't notice it until I removed the earlier front cross member to install the correct ( 40 ) part.

Cab removed temporarily on an old trailer frame.

We're all ready to go out back for the cross member change and rear end swap.

The frame is leveled on jack stands with some square tubing to hold stuff in place.

The metal is thin on the top and side between the tape marks and we're going to replace the outer C first then the inner C . I'll put rivets back where they are supposed to go.

 

False alarm. I found many more areas in the outside frame rails and I pulled the 40 tudor out of storage and crawled under to see how the frame was. I looked with a flashlight for an hour and couldn't find but one flaw. The p.o. welded tube shock mounts in the front to the outside frame rail.... easily removable.It's just too nice a car to part out.
Here is the truck frame on the horses.
The initial find was thin metal tacked together. The metal from the cross member forward seems usable.

running board removed for the first time

inside of the right rail... the usual damage

I had a new back cross member and installed it so I could clamp it to the saw horse.

So here we are waiting for some repair pieces for the frame rails. I ordered some pieces from Joes antique auto in Mass. I think they may have taken over the business that Dick Maher had before he died. I think it was called Precision Engineering; the rear member came from him. Anyway , I hope to get the repairs done over the next few weeks.

 

We started on the repair.

This added tube and angle iron is supposed to hold the frame in place.

I'm going to start cutting welds and removing rivets now.

 

I'm deep into it now and I've not provided enough bracing to hold the frame in position. You can guess what's going on from the pics.

The rear section is tacked on and seems fine; the front section went south. Stay tuned.

 

It appears that you are stretching the length of the frame.

 

No, just replacing heavily pitted metal and bring the top of the frame rail up to match the left side. The replacement section that I bought was just not long enough.

 

The beam and jack allowed me to add the missing section and get it all tacked together.

 

Most of yesterday was fitting the X frame kick up repair . It was necessary to slot the piece to get the angle to line up with the X piece.

The left end is marked and ready to be cut. On the right side of the picture, see the plate I added to the outer rail joint.

 

Welding is done on the pass side repair, but a lot of grinding left .



I painted the parts of the outer rail and the back of the inner piece after welding up the slit I made. I added a plate to the inner section that will slip behind the X and be plug welded after the 2 are welded together.


Tacking it in; most of the welding is on the left joint.


I installed a button head bolt where the factory used a rivet. I could have just welded the 2 sections of frame together. The outer frame rail was set at the correct width (44 in. ) at the top, but was tipped out at the bottom about 1/4 in. The bar clamp held the frame rail in place until I put the bolt in. The side of the frame is not perfectly plumb, but it's a lot better than when I started.



I left the top and bottom flanges on the X long and bent up out of the way until last and trimmed them to fit and tacked the joint. This actually worked pretty well.


Welding done; just some clean up grinding.

 

Looking good!

 

Here are some pictures of the repair on the drivers side frame rail.

I haven't cut the inner frame yet; it's a lot better than the other side. Maybe I could add plates on the inside for strength and plug the small unnecessary holes . Tempting.

 

inner section cut is smaller than the other side of the frame.

outer section tacked in. The frame has a slight twist but tying in the inner piece seems to take it out.

This is the new inner piece; it needs some final fitting.

 

The repairs on the drivers side rear is welded.

I started on the repair to the pass. side front.

Stuff I cut out. Below is the remains.

I used Eastwoods rust product on the inside of the remaining frame.

 

Considering the appearance of the truck, I'm amazed at how bad that frame is. Was there no chance of finding a better frame? The repairs look very good, but wow, you have had to cut a lot out.
Mart.

 

My frame is about the same, I have a chance to get a good frame for $500. .
Would you do the repairs if you had to do it over. You are doing a great job .

 

I tried to find a good frame; good in my mind is straight , all the cross members present and repairable rust damage in the rear kick up area. I'd better add " little pitting". I have a convertible frame that met the first 3 requirements, but the frame was surface rusted to the point that it was too thin.
I have a '40 deluxe tudor that is nearly rust free and the frame is the best I've seen in at least 30 years. I couldn't bring myself to part it out.
Most of the repair areas weren't noticeable even from the underside. Thanks for following, Mart.

 

If I could have found a $500 frame like I described above, I'd have jumped on it. Thanks for following.

 

Yesterday, John ( fellow club member) helped me get the last repair section tacked in place. He also made the section.

In the top picture, the inside piece of frame was cut from the convert. frame I have mentioned.I have to remove it now, and the front cross member, to weld and reinforce the joints on the outer frame rail.

 

BTW, I couldn't find one for a Grand.

 

The front cross member is in with bolts and all the repair sections are welded in. The frame checks square and level at all mounting points for the cab and bed. It is much stronger now and is a better platform to build on. There is some grinding and small repairs to get finished, but I 'm not worried about it moving.

ready to install the inner frame section; paint and reinforcement plates installed.
outside view

inner frame connected

Will it be a roller by winter? I hope so.

 

Thanks for all of the updates - quite the challenge - but, must give real satisfaction being able to make it right - when it is on the road be sure to keep a photo book in it to show interested viewers what you did - otherwise most people will not have a clue as to how "cheap and easy" does not apply to all rides

 

Great save and was to persevere. My frame is made up of pieces from 3 different ones, blown apart and using the best (least rotted) bits. All the armchair commenters love to say "frames are cheap and everywhere" and I say bull$hit.

Sent from my SM-G965U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

AMEN and thanks for following.

 

You're very correct and the aftermarket frames that are available all have modern suspension. They are also expensive . I checked out your thread; some very good ideas. Thanks

 

Nice work Joel!

 

I've been installing rivets in the frame; the front cross member was first.

I also did the radiator mount brackets. In many cases, I used larger diameter rivets than original because the holes were already oversized.

These rivets are ready to be heated and hammered except for cutting them to the correct length. I used a cutoff wheel for that.

The top ones are 5/16 dia. and the bottom flange is 3/8 ( originally 5/16 or 11/32 ) I made one of the "jacks" from a starret jack and bought the other from Big Flats Rivet Co. in New York. I also got all my rivets there. Good company to deal with.

 

I made a steel trash haul today; I took pictures of the stuff I cut off the frame and replaced. No particular reason; I just wanted a reminder of what to look for the next time I look at a project.... Oh I forgot .. this is the last one.

 

Last one.......right. I just started making a pile of body parts I am replacing on the Sedan Convertible project. I am planning to take pictures of the piles when I get done also. I don't plan on doing another wreck like this again. My next planned project is fiberglass.. Nice work by the way!

Sam

 

You did a great job repairing that frame. I can't believe what horrors were lurking under that otherwise presentable truck. I'm very lucky, the frame under my 41 is very good. A dry state truck I expect.

Mart.