Calling that done for now. Probably too much slack on the driver side but it will work. Not an expert but I think it looks pretty good for a first crack. My fingers hurt.
Your doing just fine. F.Y.I. even if you don't cut the pushrod down or even cap closed the hole in the intake your not going to have an issue. The pump cam only lifts the pushrod about 1/4" total, hardly enough to make it Jump out of the hole. You don't have a P.C.V. system so not having a cap on the manifold hole is no different than leaving the Oil fill cap off the tube. It's no big deal until you actually start driving it down the road. This is just a test fire to see what you have. See if you can find a large Pipe Wrench that can grab the O.D. of the pully on the stuck pump and work it back and forth. I'll bet you can brake it loose and then put a belt on it when you find a Rad.
How does the pump work? Is it just an impeller? If it spins free, will it do its job at least for running on a stand? Rebuild kits don't look expensive, but it looks like a pain in the ass to do without removing the engine from the stand - would rather do it down the road when getting ready to drop it on a frame.
Everything on these old cars is a pain in the ass. It's just that we choose to deal with these pains in the ass. They arent forced on us.
Lol, I enjoy wrenching but the water pump cover is also the motor mount bracket... would have to involve the engine hoist to get at it. Could probably get away with only removing the one bolt and using the crane to hoist it a little.
Yes, the Pully is pressed on the shaft that goes through the housing and the impeller sits inside the block. It oils through a drip hole in the block to the pump shaft. It's not uncommon for them to hang up after sitting. Just get ahold of it and help it out. I have never heard of anyone braking a shaft off freeing one up.
Water pump kits are available for not too much money. Don't buy pizza this weekend and you can afford one. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/engine-partsprices-pg4.htm
For test purposes, I would take short piece of wood dowel and turn, or grind a step in it, and drive it in the hole, to seal it off.
Wait until you go to remove the water pump. There is a bolt in the water inlet. Yep right in there with all the coolant and or water. Think it's rusted up??? You bet it is. Make sure you have at least a six point socket on it before you even think of breaking it free.
The last one I did the flats of the bolt were rusted off. I knew the water pump was worthless, so I took a sawzall to the bottom of the pump, cutting as close as I could to the bolt head. With the outlet gone I could get a visegrip on the head and turn it loose.
If you don't want the fuel pump shaft dancing up and down then for now just put a fuel line hose clamp on it to hold it up a touch off the cam lobe. You just need it in place to help with the Oiling system for now, you can fine tune it latter. Personally I'd be finding a manual Pump and housing. If you we closer I'd give ya one.
It doesn't really bother me if it's moving, I was just worried about it possibly getting launched out of the motor by the camshaft. If that can't happen it's not a big deal to me at this stage. Good idea with the clamp though... I am a fan of the appearance of the mechanical pump with the glass sediment bowl so I am planning to revert to one eventually.
Here's a silly question. I feel like I'm starting to understand these motors pretty well, but... I have been watching a lot of flathead content lately and I see these protrusions on the heads on all 8BA and 8RT motors, but like mine, they are always plugged. I just saw a video of a 41 truck with a 49 8BA in it where they had a hose coming off of one of them and running around under the block. What are they for?
A way to get at the water. Either for a temp gauge sender, a heater hose, or I've even stuck a sacrificial anode in there to prevent corrosion.
One thing to consider about water pumps. If you dont have access to a press your going to be potentially outta luck. I have a small pile of broken flathead water pump pulleys under my press. They break easy. You gotta support them properly. If you do everything right you still might break the pulley. I would consider buying the pump. Theres enough stuff to do without getting bogged down with that. If you buy the kit and break your pulley then you need to buy another core or buy a pulley. Ive done it. Its fine but it can get real frustrating if the pump isn't cooperating. As far as the old pumps go if they just spin they're good for starting the engine. And if They don't spin start it without the belt and shut it off in a minute.
Trevor you are moving along well, just keep your eye on the goal, to see if the motor runs. So take off the belts to the WP's put oil and gas in it, hook a battery up and try and start it. If it starts count to 5 and shut it off. It will never build up enough heat in 5 seconds to damage anything and you reached your goal. Then you can pretty everything up. Pat
Come on Guys, both of ya know there isn't going to be enough heat without water in 5 or 30 seconds to do anything. I would think you would be aware that a lot of Drag Race motors don't even run coolant at all. They actually sit and wait to build heat before a pass. How long does it take to light up, stage and make a pass? That motor can easily run 3 minutes without damaging anything, yes it will be warm but not cooked. In fact I would run it at mid range right out the gate that long just to get Oil spun up the lower side of the Pistons just to help lube things up. When I have a fresh put together motor with assembly lube I light them up at 12 to 15 K r.p.m. just to get them lubed up. If you light it and let it idle; your wiping off the pre lube. That is not a good thing.
As long as you understand you need Oil flying around I think the message is there. Don't be afraid to Spin it up. A Flathead that would turn 12K, now wouldn't that be somthun?
I think we will just put a hose clamp on the pushrod as suggested and see how it runs. I doubt there is going to be oil flying out of the boss on the intake with no more than we are going to running the engine initially.
Kids now days learn to Type at around 4 or 5 years old. When I was growing up that was second year High School. On top of that if you were a Male person and heard a Typewriter in a room at School you were either in the Office in trouble or one of those Fairy Boys that also took Dance class. I was in the Office a lot. I think I see okay but don't spell worth a dang.
I never even touched a keyboard until I was 37 years old, unless it was to help my mom move her IBM Selectric typewriter when I was a kid. The typewriter was almost bigger and heavier than she was. I took vocational welding in high school. Didnt have any need for typewriter skills back then. Now, my job is all computer based. I sit at the keyboard all day and type. I still don't know what the "home keys" thing is all about, but I do okay....
The Jalopy Journal
