Well boys and girls,...seems like it's taking forever to make progress that I can share. I did have a week's distraction that I'll share at the end of this post. One thing I hate is billet parts. So I've congered up a way to take the edge offa parts, in this case the SBC water pump adapters, and then beat'em a bit with a pneumatic "scaler",....a Harbor Freight special. Matches up with the cast aluminum water pump pretty good IMO. Also scored a SBM serpentine crank pulley at the local wrecking yard to establish the plain of the serpentine system to drive the blower. Everything is now painted and purdy. Couldn't resist putting stuff together for a pic or two. And for the distraction,....I scored this A Tudor over the weekend. This was the answer to "whadda ya gonna put the Hemi in?" It came to me much earlier than expected, or needed, but all the stars aligned and it is now in my garage. The trick is, staying focused on the engine build and not fussing with the new toy.
Tomorrow doing the wrecking yard to try to score a smooth steel offset pulley that will allow alignment of the serpentine belt from the SBM crank pulley.
So I'm sittin here in the garage pattin myself on the back, regaling at my cleverness for scoring all this good shit from the wrecking yard. Chevy smooth (reverse rotating) water pump pulley lines up great 'tho I'll need to patch for a new pilot hole and bolt holes. And then I see,...the tensioner pulley is a different rib count then the Mopar crank pulley and and I'm already looking at the blower pulley being another diff. rib count. No surprise I guess when you mix Mopar and GM and Ford stuff,... right? That's Hot Roddin right?
Man, that sucks! It's like all the different wheel bolt patterns, why?!? This may be a stupid idea but could you machine the ribs off one of the pulleys?
Probably,....thought about that but there are so many options out there that I'll explore those first. The knowledge will likely apply to the other pulley requirements for the blower, alternator and tensioner/idler pulleys.
Mopar usually runs 7 rib belts, GM runs 6 rib belts. If everything else is 6 rib, just run the crank pulley one rib short. It's really no big deal. Personally I'd run as much 6 rib GM stuff as possible as it is way more common.
Thank you Chad for your observations. I'm learnin that! Spent the day resurfacing and making the smooth reverse rotation pulley mate to the SBC water pump and an adapter to space the fan blades to clear the belt,.....and a question.... why's the smooth reverse rotation water pump pulley so heavy????? The material thickness for the part is approx. .180". Anyone have an opinion on the intelligence of shaving that .180" down to .120" on the OD.
Ohhh yeahhh,.....more presents. Rocker assemblies are like jewelry. The cool part is that these are customized by QEC with adjusters fitted to the stock non adjusting rockers. Supersedes adjustable push rods that are a real PITA! And, I have finally got the GM smooth pulley and fan spacer assembly done. Now just need HEADS so's I can get alternator, idlers, intake and blower components mocked up.
Good eyes mates! Man,...I can't get away with anything. You blokes are way too sharp Yes, that is a standard rotation fan. I used it to determine the clearance of the blades to the serpentine belt, while waiting for the correct fan to arrive from Summit,....figuring the depth of the blades would be the same.
Just checked mine and yup, it's a standard rotation fan. I got a nice 6 blade 18" steel fan rated at 3500CFM from Derale. I just had to laugh at myself when I fired up my engine went to the front of the car and the air was blowing on me, first two words that came to my mind were dumb ass
Our D7 has the fan blowing through the radiator, it helps keep the dust and ash out of the radiator fins and away from the driver when pushing up the burning stump piles while clearing land.
Common practice in the hot weather on a Cat. Cold weather reverse it so it will blow the hot air back onto you. Now with AC and heated cabs not so much of a necessity but back in the day, it sure was.
A 6PK belt won't know or care if it's running on a 7/8/10PK pulley. The water pump pulley is heavy as belt tension on a serpentine belt is much greater than a V belt.
Damn!,....I wish I had those cylinder heads! They are in the critical path of resolving the drive system for the water pump, alternator and blower. So attempting to make some kinda progress, I pulled out the water crossover who's removal from the stock 100 lb water pump and manifold assembly was started some time ago. I have "faced off" the gasket surfaces, cleaned up the rough cuts and done the scaler trick to maintain the "cast character" of of the reworked surfaces. In the process it comes to light that, unlike the tall deck Hemi, there are no bosses to mount accessories. I was planning on using those to mount the alternator and idlers. Soooo,....today's design project is to imagineer a way to provide mounting points for those accessories. also plugged the gaping hole in the bottom of the crossover with a 3/16" thick plug and JB Weld
By blending those lines they now mimic factory mold casting lines. I sure hope those heads get there fast so you can move on and keep us all enthralled with your craftsmanship.
Just couldn't wait any longer for the heads. Stressing over the component/pulley locations was keeping me awake at night. So, using a junk head, I started mocking things up. I've guessed at the location of the blower pulley. Today that will get attention. Looking at this preliminary, I need to try for more wrap on the water pump and alternator pulleys. The obvious solution is to lower the alternator but that is a very tight fit between the back of the alternator and head right where the electrical connections are I'm hoping the whole package will become more compact.
If the alternator will fit in front of the head (rotated 140 degrees?) that would improve the wrap on three pulleys.
[QUOTE I've guessed at the location of the blower pulley. Today that will get attention. Looking at this preliminary, I need to try for more wrap on the water pump and alternator pulleys. The obvious solution is to lower the alternator but that is a very tight fit between the back of the alternator and head right where the electrical connections are I'm hoping the whole package will become more compact.[/QUOTE]