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1952-59 Ford 1952 customline rear end

Discussion in 'Off Topic Hot Rods & Customs' started by Fifty2Ford, Sep 30, 2020.

  1. Fifty2Ford
    Joined: Jun 23, 2020
    Posts: 7

    Fifty2Ford

    My rear end has been leaking from where the center section bolts up. The other night started making a growling noise at low speed. My question is are the rear ends prone to problems? Should I just pull it all apart put a new gasket and new fluid in it? Or should I start thinking of swapping the whole axle out? Currently it is still the factory flathead in it. Not sure if the future will bring a 302 with a 5sp or not. My overall goal with the car is to have a nice cruiser. Highway speeds if necessary

    Thanks
     
  2. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Assuming that you have the three speed behind your flathead your gear ratio should be 3:90's not all that great for highway cruising these days. The 8" rears in early Mustangs and 70's Ford Mavericks are close to a bolt in swap after changing the rear U-joint a ratio around 3:00 to 3:31's would still play nice with the flathead and cruise better on the highway. 1952-54 Fords with a Ford-O-Matic used the 3:31 ratio,since you have not listed your location in your profile it makes it hard to recommend a place to locate a replacement rear. The width of your present rear is 57.5" You can find tons of information between Posts #2 and #10 here in the "Sticky FAQ" https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/faq-sticky.897329/ Since you are new here we have a rule regarding the "Sticky FAQ" it is an information only guide DO NOT post questions there if you have a question ask it here in the regular forum and a link to the page and Post # of the Sticky. The 8" rears have gotten pricey and harder to find the later 8.8" rear are more common and less expensive used and parts are far more available for less $$$
     
  3. Fifty2Ford
    Joined: Jun 23, 2020
    Posts: 7

    Fifty2Ford

    I do currently have a three speed behind my flathead. I am located in the Chicago suburbs. Any help on where to look would be appreciated. When looking for an early mustang what year ranges am I looking for?
     
  4. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

  5. Paul2748
    Joined: Jan 8, 2003
    Posts: 2,442

    Paul2748
    Member

    I think the 67 and 68 Mustang rears are wider than the 65-66.
     
  6. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Yes they are.
     
  7. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,665

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    The '65-66 is the same as your stock rear,1967-70 Mustang is 2" wider but by using wheels with a more positive offset they can clear your shallow rear wheel wells the 15" wheels used on mid 80's & early 90's Crown Victoria cars will work. This is a chart in the "Sticky" see Post #9 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/faq-sticky.897329/ If you have some custom wheels in mind use this: https://www.racingjunk.com/news/how-to-get-perfect-rear-wheel-and-tire-fitment/
     
  8. sedantudor
    Joined: Jan 28, 2012
    Posts: 130

    sedantudor
    Member

    I can tell the stock rears are pricey to repair. I broke an axle on the driver side and just found one on ebay. The axle only cost 40 bucks but with bearings, seals, gaskets I am in this for 150 bucks. I would recommend a swap if possible. I believe the early mustang rears are good and a Ranger rear from 90 to 92 fit as well. JeffB2 gave me the info for a Ranger rear. I think the info is in the Sticky FAQ
     
    JeffB2 likes this.
  9. Fifty2Ford
    Joined: Jun 23, 2020
    Posts: 7

    Fifty2Ford

    Thanks I am going to look for a replacement axle, in the mean time I decided to split the 3rd member from the rear axle to replace the gasket
    It also looks like the pinion seal is leaking. I wanted to repair it for not but I am having a hard time finding the pinion nut torque value???
    I understand to mark everything before taking it off
     
  10. TomDobbs
    Joined: Jan 24, 2020
    Posts: 300

    TomDobbs

    My '52/3/4 shop manual says 140 to 150 ft. lbs. for the pinion nut but it has a footnote on that spec that says "Station Wagon & Courier". It doesn't publish pinion nut torque for passenger cars. It does say the torque for pinion bearing adjustment is 28 INCH lbs, or 13 to 18 inch lbs. for a used bearing. You can probably get by with marking across the pinion nut and housing before disassembly, then tighten the nut a little past your mark on reassembly.
     
  11. Fifty2Ford
    Joined: Jun 23, 2020
    Posts: 7

    Fifty2Ford

    Thanks. I was trying to find it in the manual and it is very vague. I am hoping to get by til I find an axle to swap in over winter time or early spring.
     
  12. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 16,995

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    An old Blue Motors manual will give you the info even up to 57-8. The Ranger/Explorer 8.8 is a good thing to start looking for now. 90-92 have drums so all your linkage/lines will work. Better for your engine swap. There are more of the lower gears since OD transmissions were the norm. I have an 8.8 in my 56 with F-150 11” drums.
     

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