Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Yes

 

Thanks!

 

You bet.

 

Great thread, glad I found it!
('31 AE Independence)

 

Just found this on youtube

 

Can you adjust door gaps by bending the hinges on a 35 Standard.Need to get top of door up more to get it from hitting B piller

 

how does the front edge of the door align with cowl?

 

Need to shim the body. If the doors need to go up, loosen the first three body bolts. Put the necessary shim thickness on the second one back, then pull the cowl all the way down. Then go back to the third body bolt and most likely will need approx. the same thickness as the second body bolt. You don't want to pull the third one back down too much, as it widens the gap at the rear of the door towards the rocker. If it needs to go up a tad, start with 1/4" shim. 3/8" if door dragging pretty good.

 

I haven't been in shop for 6mo because wife and I have been under weather.But this is an on going problem.Tried shims under frame to no avail.You can put a bottle jack on back of door and jack door up to get lined up with the reveals and tack A piller in and let jack down and door goes way back down again.The frame is bolted to the bottom body plate.One mor think I need the measurment from outside of quarter panel to quarter panel at bottom Of door opening at the B piller.I'm going to try to puss firewall back a little with a port power it seems to push door up in place.I have replace all wood with metal by using the wood as a pattern.Thanks for help.I will try to make a pic if I feel good the next couple days

 

Bill {Uncleandy}...sorry i missed your post back in June...I am in Schererville ...thanks Phillip

 

If you put, say a 3/8" shim between the wood sill and frame(second bolt back), and take all shims out at the front firewall bolt and then pull it down to the frame, it will raise the door and close the gap at the rear of the door. You have to loosen the first 3 bolts completely, as the 3rd bolt back will require a new, thicker shim.

 

Paul I think I found something yesterday the firewall at the bottom has a "l"brkt and I put it where it is suppose to be so I took it out and used a portpower to push the bottom of firewall backward and it raised the door up like it suppose to.I think that was binding it up.I made all metal pieces by the wood dim and they were exact size and transfered hole form the top to the new metal base.So all holes should line up but it didn't.Maybe today I will tack weld it in and see how it stays.That is the long piece that you bolt frame to.Still need the measurement of the outside of 1/4 panel at bottom of door so I can make sure to get width right.I braced it before I took flor out but you know how it still moves Thanks for help

 

I would not do this if I understand the question. You can adjust the gap at the top rear of the door by adjusting the frame/body mounts. Loosen the first mount (located under the rear hood latch opening, and then loosed the second body/frame mount (located at the b pillar). Insert a shim (this will or could take a few different sizes) under the wooden portion of the main sill just in front of the b pillar mount location then tighten the front mound down first, then the b pillar. This should raise the back of the door. You could also have some bad wood in the main sill or in the a pillar. Open the door and lift up on the rear to see if you have movement. Depending of the movement this process may or may not work, because if the wood is bad, you must replace it so that the door is solid mounted and the body is not sagging on the main sill. There is a GM Fisher body manual that gives instructions on how to do this. I see in later post that you have replaced some of the wood with metal. So not sure that all the alignment is set. If anything moved as you were replacing the wood you may have to reset some of your welds. The main sill (runs under the body, sits on top of the frame is very important in getting the alignment of the doors, cowl and hood and can change the deck lid.

 

Thanks the main sill was rotten as always so I made a new metal by copping the wood on as I did for all the wood.I think I have to do the doors first with all the latchs and see where it goes from there.Don't have too much time now to work on it because of heath problems.Buit I will not quit this is my 5th car to build by myself.But with the 40 on my pic did a full frame rotisserie and made all new floors but the A piller and B piller stayed complete because rocker was good not like Chevy's they let the rockers loose with nails.But that is why we do these things.Thanks

 

Hey Guys.

I only just discovered this thread today, so I have been looking through all the posts. This is the pile of panels, I picked up two years ago. It comprised of a cut up 29 Truck cowl, single door and a 28 Tourer rear door.

 

I will be fabricating everything from the cowl back into a closed pickup cab including the doors out of new steel . I am not worried about the task but the biggest challenge will be recreating the lower part of the cowl that is missing. I will be using these mid thirties Chev truck doors as a pattern for the new ones. These doors are actually for closed cab trucks and extremely rare, but look similar to the 27/28/29 truck doors.

 

Here is the start of the cab. I have been using sheets of MDF as patterns for the sheet metal.

 

It looks like a great start to me. That kind of metal work is just magic to me. Keep us up on your progress. Years ago I hauled most of a '27 pickup cab home. Other than a few bullet holes it wasn't bad. I don't know if I have any of it left or not. I found another one in an old dump in a Ghost town but when I went back to get it I found it rolled into a ball by a bulldozer.

 

My "wayback machine" found this one (Aug-1976) of my 31' Coach as I was giving my younger brother his first ride in it.
And then it came apart for lipstick ...................
Then after a couple of decades on the road.................

 

Just stumbled across this while searching for other stuff. I'll be spending the next few hours reading all of it. I recently rescued a 36 Chevy 5 window coupe that was a gasser in the 60s. Parked and left to rot in 1970 when the track closed. The chassis is squared away and now I'm looking for tips on replacing the wood framework that went between the chassis & the floor. I'm leaning towards 1x3 rectangular steel for the sides and probably 1x1 or 1x2 cross bracing. Any help would be hugely appreciated.

 

more pics please

 

There may be some help you pick through these threads from the Rusty Bowtie site.
http://rustybowtie.com/index.php?board=19.0

 

Not much to see so far body wise but here she is. Floors are pretty much non-existent and the wood is bad also.

 

She's a rough old girl. When I got it it still had stock front brakes and the guy I bought it from thought it had a Ford 9" rear. Turned out to be a 58 Olds rear with welded spiders and 5.38 gears. The rear tires were old bias ply Redlines that were date coded 1970 mounted on 15x10 Aluminum slots.

 

Anybody know for sure if 33 chev 4 door ,front doors ,will fit 5 window coupe ?
Can somebody provide some measurements of a 5 window door ?
Thanks

 

just wondering if any one knows if mad mike 3434 is still part of the hamb he seemed to have a lot of 34 chev info thanks

 

He doesn't appear to be, he was last seen in April 2019 and when trying to pull up his profile it just shows up as "ERROR", so he is apparently no longer a member

 

I thought he had possibly changed to mad mike 34 35 but couldn't find anything
but I do***** at navigating the site so far
thanks for the reply*****
While I'm on here I am in need of a 34 master rad shell
apparently I have a 33 if anyone needs one
have yet to figure out how to post a parts wanted add