Hot Rods Early Corvette drag racing Tips and tricks

Wrong, The C1 corvettes qualify as hard tops with the "Hard Top installed" Makes no sense. How could a 40 LB. piece of plastic held into place with 2- 1/4 20 screws and two clamps survive a roll over?? This the NHRA rules and who is going to fight them?????????????????????????????????? Not me!

 

One of the things that Jim H mentions in his "list" is "modifying the OE engine mount to be a motor plate. He sent me this photo of the one he did. I assume he eliminates the OE cushions. If that is the case, then I think you could modify the top of it to clear the alt bracket

 

So as I am thinking about the whole front engine plate, damper spacers, alternator brackets etc, why not just build mounts off the frame to use under the engine solid mounts instead of the front motor plate?

 

When considering pulley alignment don’t forget about the spacer the goes on before you install the harmonic balancer that makes up for the thickness of the saddle mount.

 

Works for me.
jp

 

You could do that, but there will be interference with headers and steering. BTW, I did eliminated the OE cushions because they would be destroyed quickly with my 6000 rpm launches. I made up alum. blocks and lowered the engine about 9/16". That was enough to allow me to run a flat stock hood with an air gap manifold holley carb and a stock air cleaner. Jim

 

You are a very tricky cagey veteran Jim.
jp

 

So Jim.... Do you maybe wanna talk about actual cubic inch's on your combination? Just curious if your a short stroke High RPM guy or maybe like a few cubes...

 

After looking at this engine mount plate I see that the added lower ears probably help with eliminating water pump leaks due to the stress of hard launches.

 

I Have always been a High RPM guy. First vette had a 283-230 engine. Installed a 30-30 cam and shifted at 7500. I could beat most Muscle cars with their big torque and uncontrolled wheel spin with that car. Next when to a LT-1 over the counter 350. Cost $370 for the short block over the counter at my local Chevy dealer. Much cheaper than trying to take a 327 and machining it to compete. That engine with a really big cam revved to 10,000. It lased 15 years. Next was a L88 , I did not like it, too big and bulky. I sold the BBC stuff to Jim D. Next is the current engine, 395". 4.25" bore x 3.48 stroke. Revs like crazy. Semi mild cam, to my specs. Revs fast as hell, but will go up the steep road to where I live at 1500 rpm in top gear without pinging or bucking. It is like an over sized 301. It is all bore stroke ratios and rod stroke ratios. I love this engine.

I get tired of people telling me you can not bore a sbc that big. If you know how to do it, you can. besides stock 427 piston fit right in. Torque is for trucks and buses. Horsepower is for winners. Jim

 

That is perfectly correct. The stress on the water pump bolts is too much for those bolts to not slide in the gaskets and cause leaks. If you look at used front motor mounts, most will have elongated holes. There is no saving these mounts. The extensions help distribute the toque to the 55 chevy mounting holes. You should still re-check them every 25 runs.. Jim

 

Thanks again JP. My mind just see things and I do it. Probably like Don Garlits.

 

Jim, just so you know I was happy to liberate any and all parts from your stash of goodies. I have had many good times putting some of them to good use. Being that Jim and I both have candy reddish 62 big blocks and black 62 small blocks, I know that Jim has a soft spot in his heart for big block Vettes. They are different animals though on the street and the strip. My big block pulls hard the whole way but my particular small block (unlike Jim's more professional combination) runs out of steam so to speak after 1000'. I want to build a bigger inch small block (since my 327 is a stock as it came from the factory 327/365) but have not made the final decision as to which way to go. I also want to put this in a different combination that I can pound on without worrying about stress cracks etc and new paint etc. When I have been all sentimental I remember the day of the 288 ci modified production Vettes of the 70s and would love to own one of those, but I am not sure how well they would pull in the big end if I was to go that route-plus those guys ran sizable gears on launch. I think cubic inch would cure the problem on the back half of the track with a more streetable build. Sometime I will have to do my homework on 377 versus 383 versus 406 versus 427 etc. Hopefully this thread will help with me and others with the same dilemma.

 

Just throwing this out there for thought. I replaced the original cross member and front suspension of my '56 with a '65 Corvair assembly. It was practically a bolt in and I would guess 100 lbs lighter. The front did sit low, but that was the style at that time.

I can't remember what steering arrangement I started out with but it had a bunch of bump steer. I know I had a R&P in it at one point but I'm not sure what it was from. (probably Pinto) It for sure used the Pinto springy flex shaft. I believe we fixed the bump steer by adjusting the inner tie rod mounting points (maybe rack extensions?) and by limiting the front end travel. Sorry I can't be sure of all the details. In the end it went straight and true.

 

I have built 2 348 SBCs that I was impressed with 400 block large journal 327 crank and 6.25 rod and off the shelf 400 6.00 rod pistons. I do like long rod motors.

 

Just lit off my 327 on the run stand, sounds bitchin , no drips good oil pressure runs cool. In reality its what Jim would call a truck engine but I used up the last of my 377 parts on my 37....

 

Was that a big bore/short stroke 377.5 Or a small bore/long stroke 377.0 It works both ways.

 

So do I, more time at TDC.

 

Jim the 377 in my 37 is a big bore short stroke version.

 

That is great, that is the better combination. More square inches in the piston top, more force. More power.

 

Ok Jim , lets talk about clutch linkage. The stock corvette clutch pedal has two different clutch rod positions. One supposed slow position and a fast position. Can you tell us which in your opinion works best?

 

This some how sounds like the congress hearings on Judge Barret. Much aggressive counter questions. I will log this into my memory. Answer is, depends on the clutch. How do you think a 3200 lb clutch in the fast position would work as to the pedal effort???

The fact is I use the slow position. And I run a 1200 lb. clutch. I limit the pedal travel in other ways. And usually pull sub 20 lights, many in single digits.

 

I like all the talk about a high winding 348 , 377 cu in engines etc. It is very intriguing. I have always been a simple no replacement for displacement kind of guy so I plan on going with a BBC in my 56. 11.5 ish to 1 460 with roller cam and aluminum heads. Easy and simple.

 

Larry, I can understand your going with a BBC. They are an easy way to make power and have fun in the process. I probably really like these cars based on old memories and some of my favorite memories are with the black 57 Midwest Vette that ran a 427 with a four speed in 66 and 67 in modified sports. Car was super impressive to say the least. I am leaning towards a 377 for my next build for a couple of reasons. I want to stick with a small block and one of my all time favorite 62 Vettes is Skip Hess' Wildebeast that ran a 377 with a four speed.

Dave Kanners in the black Midwest 57.



Skip Hess

 

See there you go , now I'm going to have to have one.

 

James, we have missed you at the last two Byron Dragway events. Maybe you can find a roller and build one to suit.

At this past year's Glory Days Nostalgia event I had two guys ask me to keep them in mind if I ran across a C1 roller. Both want to build drag cars out of them. Anyone that know of any feel free to PM me. The more we can get out on the drag strip the merrier IMO.

 

Here is the front engine mounts I made for my 61. I didn't want to mount it to the water pump.

 

And I am lucky enought to have a set of stall fender well header that I bought back in 1972