We went with a semi- gloss clear as I am not a fan of painted wood grain done in shiny gloss as it loses some realistic feature. I never seen real wood that is that shiny on a real woodie.
Now, about that overheating in traffic, time to find a permanent fix. For me that meant upgrading the cooling system. I did not mention but on my last trip to CA, my electric fan rubbed a hole in my core and it started to leak, causing it to run warm (I was up in the siskou mountains with nothing near by). I did make it to Redding after stopping a few times to refill at rest stops and found some leak stop that got me another few hundred miles. about 2 miles from my parents the radiator let go. I rolled into their driveway at over 220 degrees, going 60 down a 25, popped into neutral and engine turned off. coasting into their back yard where my dads shop is. Luckily the next day was turlock swap and I found a nice 2 core aluminum replacement and no damage to the engine it got me thru the rest of the week (Goodguys West Coast nationals) and back home towing the teardrop/ I went and had a custom radiator support built (similar to those found on higher end 55-57 chevies) that will hold a radiator that is almost double the size and will hold two 13" electic fans. this one has a shroud. Somewhere along the process, the new support came out alittle taller, not sure why when it was jigged against a stock radiator support and it looks to be similar when measured but after installing the fenders I could not get the gaps to fit, headlights were sitting high. I decided it might be my frame/ factory crossmember had been damaged along the years (not sure how when factory sheetmetal has great gaps but I got fired of trying to make it fit so I reversed engineered the crossmember and built a new one that was much stronger and allow me to lower the mounting point of the cradle and have adjustment to raise as needed. It also gives more clearance to the ground (thinner but thicker material) Due to the wider support, I have had to modify the inner fenders (still in progress) but got the front corners done.
I see you added a Reese style hitch, what are you planning on pulling? and did you fabricate the hitch or find something tat was close to fitting your car?HRP
Danny, I took a units I found cheap at a swap meet and cut it up. It works for what I have done but i would like to redo it (I was in a rush). cut up the unit and welded the main tube to crossmember that I bolted in with grade 8 hardware (instead of rivets) and added extra bracing. With the rear gravel pan and bumper I had to slide in an slip in extension and I made support bracing that bolts from end of extension to inner bumper brackets ( the moment weight of tonque of my previous travel trailer was so heavy it tore the rivets out of the crossmember (they are riveted in from the factory). it was a 19 ft Shasta trailer, the teardrop I tow now (look back a page or two) is so light I do not know its there). I want to find another one at a swap with the right width and cut ends off, weld new end plated and make it bolt along the side the side of the frame rail and have an additional brace from rail to rail behind the tank and then have the support for the extension as I do now incase I get another travel trailer (of moderate size)
Great updates on an already great car! Did you stitch up the interior yourself? Do you have any pictures of the hitch setup you described?
Thanks for the information, I want to install a hitch on our wagon, we have a 1957 Shasta 1400 which is a whopping 13' 8" long but have't pulled it with the wagon yet. HRP
Hit up you local salvage yards. Around here they are filled with hitches. Most of them go for 50 bucks or less
last update to bring up current. sent a some items to the chrome shop and now they are all back. Rear bumpers, overriders, wiper escalons, wing window frames and a few misc pieces for the interior. I have another pile of pieces going out shortly. Now everything external has been replated exept the grill (that is soon) and most interior pieces I want done. (some tailgate hardware remains)
Ken, do you have any pictures of how you ran the filler neck with the hidden filler? I know you have another tank now, but I have had the taillight filler kit for years and haven’t been able to figure out a good way to route the neck and vent it.
Got some time to work on the wagon this weekend. Took an old battery box I bought at a swap for $5 a few yrs ago and cut it up. moving mounting location and resizing it. It is now in its final position. Then took some time to fab some filler panels for the body brace. I had cut it up in the past to fit the headers for the old sbc, with a newer engine going in I am going with Cast manifolds (tired of leaks). I need to do some more welding of old holes and it should be close to being able to body work the firewall and paint it.
Wayfarer, I do have several pictures of how I did it. (all build pictures are on my website.) but here are some that might help. I bent some wire and had an exhaust tube amde to go over and up (with bed on the end) above the frame (below the body) . you might be able to possibly take stock tube and rotate it up towards the taillight and then run a rubber hose. I built a filler next (out of a 40 ford I think but it might be something else (I do not remember but there is a pic below. I added a breather port.
hey bud do u have the adapter City: Spokane State: Washington Price: $250 I've had this adapter hanging on my wall for years. Adapts a 216 or 235 to GM automatic (th350, 700 r4, 200 4r). I used it for mockup, but then decided to run a small block. My small block needs to be replaced, so I'm selling this to help offset the cost. I'm missing a couple of bolts, but everything else is there. A new one is $350, so save yourself a little money. if so email me please ill buy it j77518@yahoo.com
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